[1st Gen] Replacing dust seal/oil slinger on OEM CV axle

Creating a new thread on this for easier search location. We've talked about it in WDYDT/Lunch Table threads, but I don't think anyone has actually shown instructions on how to do this without any of the Toyota specialty tools. Maybe I'm wrong - link it up if you got it.

Anyway, long and short, apparently Toyota has an issue with shipping their axles. One of the seals likes to get beat up. My case is no different. While they were still doing reman axles (43430-0C010-84 or 43430-0C010 for non-reman), I ordered one from ToyotaPartsOverstock in Lakeland. This is what I saw on arrival, the oil slinger was beat all to hell:

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If this is like others, I believe the metal being tweaked is inconsequential, as long as the vertical and angled rubber part are intact and able to sling stuff away from the housing and axle. In my case, that lower arrow it's contacting the axled part, and on the flipside, the metal is totally folded over into the axle.

I think it was @metalpete who informed me this was a replaceable seal, and gave the part number (90080-30028). Apparently it gets swapped out when Toyota remans their axles. So I picked one up, but I didn't find any literature that shows removal or install w/o using special service tools (SST).

I finally took care of mine today. I don't even need the axle, but ToyotaPartsOverstock was kind enough to let me keep it and refund in whole, so I bought the part from them to repair it, leaving me with an OEM reman spare. Here's how I did it.

I have a bunch of 12" wood rod/dowels from a random ass purchase. Using one of those, a few hammer taps on the dowel 2"-3" apart, outward at the back edge of the seal, and we had a winner.

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The old seal and the new seal, side by side.

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I tried a few things to tap it back on. Dowel wasn't working out, which I expected. The seal would drop on one side, shift up on another.

I knew if I could just get it set 2-3mm on all sides, I could drive from there. The OD measure is in the ballpark of 4", so I went hunting for PVC but came up empty. Wasn't even sure if it would work without compressing the rubber interior, because there's such a limited margin to work with.

The answer came in the form of a Don Francisco coffee can, I've got a few on my shop bench for holding brushes, pencils, and misc other stuff. Literally fit on perfectly, and I was able to slap a flat piece of wood on the back side of the can and drive the seal on. Here's what was brewing. Can doesn't look square, but it just slid over the glued-in seal.

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Once I got the seal locked on, I took a 4" grade 8 bolt and tapped twice every inch around the perimeter until it was evenly seated. It bottomed out with ~½mm gap between the base of the seal and the axle body, I couldn't manage to get it to sit flush, but also don't have visibility to see how it looks on my factory axles.

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Seal installed with part number, for reference.

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It looks flush from this angle.

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And a topside view before I cleaned up and re-greased things.

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I recently had to change a big ass seal on the transaxle of my Camry. Of course I didn't have the SST or any sockets near big enough to persuade it into place. Various wooden dowels would not do the trick, so I searched around YouTube for ideas and wound up at the Toyota Maintenance Channel (you know, that guy with the funny accent). He had the most profound yet simplest idea (why didn't I think of that?)...use the old seal to tap the new one into place!! It's the same diameter, of course, and you don't need to worry about mangling it.

 

Dowel was the magic. Coffee can added to bag of tricks! Nice writeup.