2009 Lexus LX570 — 200 series build

Bought the 3M headlight polishing kit. I did 4-5 passes each of 800 and 500 grit, cleaning the dust off the sandpaper and the headlights after each pass. Then wet sanded with the 3000 four times, wiping everything dry after each pass. Two applications of the polishing compound, and here are the results. They are completely clear. This kit works!

 

It has been a long time since updating this thread. We’re sitting at 175k miles. No new mods, but I did put new tires on it about 7k miles ago. We’re trying out the Duratrac RT in SL. These are 275/60R20, which is a bit taller and a bit narrower than the stock factory 285/55R20 size:


Had some help doing an oil change and a 5-tire rotation a while back. It was chilly, and the other two kids were lying in the warm sun until their turn to help:


Initial impressions are good. I have a bit of rubbing in reverse at full lock. Nothing a heat gun can’t take care of. They are barely louder than the Defenders they replaced at highway speeds. Comfortable. I’m curious to see if the RT tires last longer than the standard Duratracs, which it looks like Goodyear is phasing out.

Planned preventative maintenance:
As far as maintenance is concerned, I am approaching the 180k service. The biggest job is replacing my radiator which has developed a stress crack that I covered with JB Weld before it could start leaking about 20k miles ago. There are some other things that should be replaced along with the radiator. Here’s my list:

• 16400-50384: Radiator (latest iteration that finally fixed the weak point issue at the badge)
• 16031-0S010: Water Inlet Sub-Assembly, With Thermostat
• 16100-09491: Engine Water Pump w/ gasket
• 16620-0S012: Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner
• 16603-38012: Accessory Drive Belt Idler Pulley
• 90916-A2033: Serpentine Belt
• 16380-0S010: Fluid Coupling Bracket
• 16571-38080, 16572-38131: Radiator Coolant Hoses

I started accumulating parts last summer. I did just buy 5 gal of OEM Toyota pink coolant, and I think that means I have everything I need, so I guess I’ll start tearing things apart on an upcoming weekend.

Speaking of accumulating , another big job I’m going to do is replace the AHC accumulator globes and bleed the system. I found the proper accumulators and 3 cans of AHC fluid on a Japanese auto parts eBay account. If we’re doing a big road trip this summer, I need to go ahead and get these two big jobs out of the way.

Here are the parts I have:
• 08886-01805: Suspension Fluid (2.5 liter can x 3)
• 49141-60020, 49151-60020 (2 each): TOYOTA SUSPENSION ACCUMULATOR SET for LX570, URJ200
• 49156-60030 (x 4): new O-rings for the accumulators (called “Ring Suspension Control backup”)

I’m also going to replace the heater T’s. These are plastic and tend to fall apart over time. My factory T’s still look great, so we’ll see.
• 87248-08030 (x 2)


In other news, I replaced the clock spring. The horn had stopped working. I immediately thought it was the clock spring, so I ordered one and put it in. This isn’t a terrible job, but is a bit unnerving taking your steering wheel off:


Using some painter’s tape with lines drawn on it to make sure I’m lined up properly when reinstalling:


Took it all apart. Removed the clock spring, and got it all put back together, and the horn STILL didn’t work. Took the wheel off again, double checked everything, cleaned a couple ground wire connections, shot Deoxit into some connectors. Nope. Still no horn. I checked the fuse box. Fuse is blown. Whoops. Replaced it. Horn works! Except it’s really high pitched. Curious. Popped the hood. Had one of my kids press the horn while I had a hand on each of the two horns. It turns out there is a “low note” horn and a “high note” horn. The low horn doesn’t work. Connectors are the same, so I swapped the two horns positions. Low one still doesn’t work, but the high one still does. Thus, this low horn is bad:


Ordered a new one, popped it in, and everything works as it should. Didn’t need to replace that clock spring after all…

Sometimes, we put the LX to work:



Mostly just smaller trailer jobs. Spread two yards of mulch here.

What a ridiculously great vehicle. Well worth the 13mpg city/17mpg highway.

As I mentioned above, we are looking to do a summer road trip out West. Still in the planning stages, but thinking of hitting Moab and the San Juans again. It will be interesting taking a mostly stock 570.

 

Got a really big job done on the 570 @ 176,200 miles.

New
• radiator (updated without the design flaw)
• water pump and gasket
• thermostat
• fan pulley bracket
• tensioner
• idler
• upper and lower hoses
• serpentine belt

I will do a full write up on this, as much of it translates to the 2nd generation Tundra equipped with the 5.7L 3UR-FE V8.

The reason for this big preventative maintenance job is the stress crack in the radiator mentioned earlier in this thread. I patched the crack, which had not begun to leak yet, 25k+ miles ago. It makes sense to swap the other items given the relatively massive space to work in with the radiator out.

Everything was in pretty good shape. No leaks, no squeaks. The fan pulley was a little bit loose. Other than that and the radiator, no signs of potential issues on the horizon.

 

Full writeup for radiator replacement over at Mud.

Included are relevant bits for 3UR-FE Tundras on replacing the water pump, thermostat, fan pulley bracket, tensioner, and idler pulley.