Old Man Emu Springs 2884 vs 2885

Hello,

I have a 2006 Tundra double cab 4WD that I want to change the suspension on. My plan is to do Bilstein 5100 shocks front and rear and pair it with some OME springs. I'm just looking for help deciding on a spring.

After reading everything I could find online, I'm still not sure if the 2884 or 2885 OME springs are what I want. I would like the truck to sit just a little lower in the front than the rear. From what I've read it seems like 2884 would achieve that on the double cab and a 2885 would have it sitting level. However, I'm not positive that is correct.

Any help is really appreciated, open to other spring options if there's something better at that price range. Truck will not be off-roading or anything like that. I was planning on just buying the spring/shock package from 1stgenoffroad.

I apologize if I missed a thread that this has been gone over for a 4WD double cab, but I couldn't find it.

 

Good morning. Check the suspension. Wheels and tires section of THIS thread. Below is just a small snip-it of info from that thread.

• If choosing a lifted spring on Bilstein 5100s, here's some selection guidance. A popular option is 5100s paired with OME (Old Man Emu, not 'OEM') springs. It can be daunting which spring to pick, between the 2883, 2884, 2885, 2886, 2887. From ample user experiences here on the forum, we know what you can expect: For AC/RC with 2WD, If you want to get near-level, go OME 2883, and if you plan to also lift the rear, go OME 2884. For AC/RC with 4WD, go 2883 for a sport rake, use the 2884 to get level, or if you plan to lift the rear 1.5" - 2" after, then go with the 2885. For nearly all DCapplications, you'll get "sport" rake with the 2884, near level with the2885, or if you plan to lift the rear,OME 2887 is probably your jam. With any suggestion given here, expect it'll take at least a few dozen miles of driving before your suspensionsettles. We've seen a couple of AC/RC people ignore or miss this advice,they wound up with Carolina Squat because they expected OME 2885s would be right for their AC/RC 2WD truck - it's just not the case, and a lot of vendors don't bother to informtheir customers any of this, so learn from their mistakes.
• Know many companies, like OME/Old Man Emu don't actually make kits for the 1st Gen Tundras, most kits are adapted from 4Runners and Tacomas therefore, depending on your cab type & drivetrain, you can really screw yourself w/too much lift, travel issues, or damage. It's especially true for AC/RC trucks - If a vendor says their 1st gen OME kit is good for 2"-3" of lift, that number is more for DC/4WD trucks, AC/RC 4WD owners can expect to exceed 3" lift ... and if AC/RC 2WD owners can expect 4" or more. Yes, 100% serious, we've seen it happen, folks here had to replace their brand new lift after. DC 4WD owners probably won't see this problem. DC 2WD owners may get more than advertised, but not nearly as bad as the RC/AC guys do, and you may not screw anything up, but be prepared. Note: OME is a great company. I suspect they're only doing this to avoid the DC/4WD and Sequoia owners from getting pissed if they didn't get a full 2.5"-3" from an OME lift kit.

 

Yeah I just saw that from another thread, I'm an idiot. Not sure why Google didn't pick that one up with key words

 

I’ve been able to use the search function of this forum pretty well, but others say it’s easiest to type tundras.com and then what it is you are looking for into your google search bar and it seems to work well for them.

 

Appreciate it, I guess I'm used to Acurazine where the search function left a lot to be desired. Do you happen to know what the difference in height (front to rear) would be with a "sport rake"? Seems like 2884 would probably be best for towing a boat so it would sit squatted.

 

My guess (just a guess as I have no personal experience with that set up) would be about -1”.

 

That would be perfect, I'll roll the dice and see how it sits. I appreciate your help

 

I think this is in the ballpark, like ¾" - 1". If we go by the Measure Up thread, seems like typical OEM rake depending on mileage and freshness of suspension is anywhere from 1¼" - 1¾". Anything rake-wise about half that should appear sporty. I'd consider upsizing to a 265/70r17 also.

@860_UA7 be sure to take center-hub-to-flare and ground-to-flare measures on all 4 corners so you have a baseline metric to tweak and adjust later. And share your numbers in the measure up thread before/after please.

 

Thank you, so the 2885 might sit like .25"-.5" below level? I'm pretty sure I have 265s on it right now from the TRD package. Problem with all my measurements is I bought it with a spacer on front and rear that I'm getting rid of, so I don't have good stock baseline measurements. Which definitely makes it harder for me to visualize how much I want the front to lift up. I would like it to retain some rake, but not much.

I will for sure post up in that thread to help others in the future.

 

My 2 cents if you're planning on 2885 springs skip the 5100s. At the stock height setting on the shock you'll still get 2 inches and going higher on the height setting will make them fail prematurely since the 2885 springs are taller.

Here's mine for reference
https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-big-is-yours-measure-up.46186/#post-1193191

 

Yours looks great. I'm not understanding what you're saying though. Skip the 5100s and get what in their place? The stock bilsteins? Only difference on yours is that add-a-leaf kit in the rear. Maybe stock rear springs with a 2884 would get a similar look to you. I'd rather not do anything with leaf springs, I'd like the rear to be stock height for towing and other truck stuff.

 

Yep, I would expect you to land with about ¼"-½" rake on 5100/2885 on a DC with 4WD and no armor. With 5100/2884, you should land closer to ½"-¾" rake. In that regard, I think 2884 with no rear lift would, as you say, get you basically looking pretty close to his, but ~½" lower in front.

On Fester's setup, the Icon AAL he put in rear (I'm selling a practically-new one in the Marketplace, minus longer u-bolts) he probably got about ¾" rear lift out of it, and it would be a solid upgrade to pick up the rear and beef things up a little for towing. You might also consider throwing on a Firestone bag kit in rear for towing purposes, to firm up the rear under load - and if you do, make sure you plumb both bags independently so they can't pass shared air between each other, it kinda defeats the purpose.

I understand the desire for stock rear ride height, especially if you're loading things in your truck ... esepcially if you load up mowers, dirtbikes, or other similar stuff.

 

I really need to do this too. Once I have my unveiling this week

Edit: Oops, spelled that wrong and autocorrect got me

 

@KNABORES and I are both waiting...

 

Thank you to everyone, this forum has been awesome with fast replies and good information. I think 5100 with the 2884 is what I'm gonna try out. I'll post up some pics in the other thread when it's all done. The things I tow aren't very heavy so I think this set up will be perfect.

 

Not to be a used car salesman, but I’ve got a pair of gently used 2884 springs with <10k miles on them for sale on the 1st gen marketplace if you’re interested.

 

You can use literally any shock to replace them even the 2884 springs aren't recommended to use anything but the stock perch height on the 5100s.

After mine started leaking I used some Sachs shocks and it's the same height as the 5100s but a nicer ride.

 

To this point, 4600 is a good option.

And @Acatlin96 is a solid member and to his point, the 1st Gen Marketplace forum for parts etc. is over here: https://www.tundras.com/forums/1st-gen-tundra-parts-marketplace-2000-2006.4/

 

I was just pricing them out on rockauto lol. I think for a street driven truck the 4600 and his OME 2884 would be even more budget friendly and a great option for my needs. Thank you guys again, I'm leaning towards that now.

 

I can't guarantee you'll get the exact same lift or ride you'd get b/c not enough people have done it here, but there's been a lot of speculation on the interwebs all the internals of the 4600 are the same as the 5100, same valving etc., but the 5100 comes with a different body and adjustable cup.

 

Gentlemen, I am in this same boat. Thought my LBJ was bad, but turns out my shock bushings are shot. How's yhe ride with 5100s and 2884. 4x4 AC 2006. From reading it sounds like this combo will level me out nice

 

For ref this is my daily driver in denver, so the roads are ruffffff

 

$365 Bilstein's 4600 Monotube Gas OEM Shocks Set for 2000-2006 Toyota Tundra 2WD 4WD

Bilstein's 4600 and 5100 are regarded by most that've installed "as close to OEM ride as you'll get". The 4600 is supposedly near-identical to what came on the TRD package for the 1st Gen.

There's significant difference between suspension on OP's DC as far as what you'll get on your AC. While 2884 will give him a little rake, it'll probably going to push you to near-level, 2885 would likely leave you appearing to be squatting a lil in the rear, even in 4WD on the AC, and for 2WD and V6 guys in AC, it'll definitely leave them squatting (there's proof in pictures that are posted in the megathread TBM linked in reply #2, which you should probably read before you make any purchases.)

Don't downplay the importance of your LBJs. Those are the Achilles heel of the suspension on these trucks. The amount of stress on the LCA and ultimately transferred to the LBJ is why the lower shock bushings blow out, there's a lot of force down there. Companies like Rancho seem to not realize that, and their lower shock bushings blow out really fast on these trucks. That said, only use OEM LBJ and fresh OEM bolts when you replace, and if they haven't been replaced in 100k-150k miles, replace proactively, since failure while driving is pretty disastrous. Thankfully, most people tend to have them fail during low speed turns, a couple have had it happen on the interstate at highway speed, and totaled their trucks.

 

The whole reason I got under it amd found the shit bushings is I was diagnosing the LBJ. Lifted it up from the control arm, did the 9-3, 12-6 wiggles and couldn't create play. Got a pry bar then a big 2x4 and couldn't create any movement either with those. Then I saw the glaring mf issue. This started bc I noticed some wear on my driver front tire on outside

 

Check your steering racks bushings. My truck had the same tire wear issues. The ones on my 2000 were totally shot and had lots of play. I replaced them with Energy poly bushings when I did the rest of the suspension about 6 months ago.

 

But would shock bushing cause that tire wear? Wouldn't that be other components?

 

@Toyota dude I confirmed with a trusted mechanic friend that the bouncing of the wheel from the bad bushings can cause this kind of cupping. @B888s good call ok the bushings, I'll give those a look too. Going to have slee offroad out in golden set me up with 5100s and 2884s. Unless someone can give me a reason to go 2885

 

I went against the grain on a similar set up. A 4Runner but everyone said not to run bilstien and ome together. Even bilstein says not to. But the springs with 5100 was a fantastic ride. Several folks including my wife commented on how well it rode. great pairing.

 

@shifty` slee is pushing me toward 2883s and 90004 ome setup, do you or any other member have any experience with this mix, vs the 5100s and 2884s? Their reasoning is the warranty for the bilstein will be void when pairing with aftermarket spring which I understand. But ride quality is paramount got me as this is my DD