Shed building...plan question

So after a major headache dealing with the city building department, I had to purchase a set of plans that were state approved before they would issue a permit. The shed is a 10x12 with 7 foot sidewall. They said i have to build it to spec per the plans and that is what the inspector will look at. They wont allow me to adjust wall height without an engineer approval....I wanted to install a pre-hung door. Since I have to go by the plan, I am trying to figure out what the stud length is between the top and bottom plates. I haven't head back from the shed company that provided the plans.

 

If I'm reading your drawings correctly, it looks like the opening is 6'-0" and the door is build oversized to just cover the opening when closed.

Edit: So your Jack/trimmer stud would be 6'-0"

 

You might be able to hound your council representative enough so your shed gets past the inspector or maybe request a variance to your plans.

 

I'm not advocating for you to do anything, but, what I will say is if you want to make the argument, other than the goofy highlights and checkboxes that indicate what you 'bought' all the information is on that plan to build any of the other sizes that you want. (Technically that includes prior engineering approval as well since that is the same plans they will give the guy who bought the biggest option )

To your question I agree with @BreyTundy, 6'-0" would be the jack/trimmer stud dimension for the door, although I would probably give myself a 1/2" allowance so the door will open smoothly even if the shed settles and twists a little bit (which it will despite all your best efforts). So call it 6'-0 1/2"

If you are referring to the overall side wall, the studs would end up as 6'-7 1/2". That is to allow the 2x4 bottom plate and the double 2x4 top plate which are included in that 7'-0" height.

 

Stud length is 79-½ inch for 84” (7’) wall. Single bottom plate and double top plate is 4-½ inches. Pre hung Door opening is add 1 inch in height and 2 inch in width for jabs and shims.
Doors need to be on gable side for two 2x6 header. Build the deck first and layout the gable end 1:1 scale, on the deck and you could find every details you need. Get your self a palm nailer, I saw a lot of Simpson strong ties required.

 

I do have a palm nailer. So the 7ft wall per a shed plan is measured 7 feet from the floor surface to the top of the 2nd top plate? I saw one site that said the height is measured by the siding on the outside and that the interior wall height is 6' 7".

 

Hard to see it on my phone, it’s from bottom of floor joist to top of plate, 6’-7” wall stud should be 6’2-½”

 

Oops! Good catch, I read the section cut wrong. Looks like the 7'-0" includes the floor joist aswell.


Now you got me reading the plans closer... I don't like them. The closer I look the less clear I am what is happening to be honest. Sheet A21 shows two different methods of framing out the roof-to-wall connection and they change how the siding is used to close out the wall. Depending on which you choose the studs need to be different lengths. Also unclear is whether the plywood floor sheathing runs under the bottom plate or not. Again this changes the length of the studs if you are locked down by 7'-0" long pieces of siding.

 

If it's 7 feet from floor to top of 2nd top plate, shouldn't the studs be 6' 9"?

 

I guess they play it safe for 5” floor joist and pt ply. When it’s only using 2x4 joist and ⅝ plywood

 

No. If it is from top of floor to top of the 2nd top plate. It would be what @Winning8 and I both said originally which is 79.5" or 6'-7 1/2". But they seem to be including the floor joists which are 2x4s on end or 3.5" so... 76" or 6'-4". However there are still questions that I have from the way they have drawn it. Is this part of a kit? Is a 7'-0" piece of siding an actual limitation or are you providing all the materials?

 

I have all the materials. I am building it from these plans. The city said I have to follow them. Later on I plan to swap to the prehung 36x80 door. Right now I have a stud at 6' 9" along with the bottom and 2 top plates that would put me just under 7' 2".

 

Cut 2” off the studs, later on you have to cut off a section of bottom plate to fit the pre hung door anyway, it’s going to be a tight fit, just have to cut down the jabs and bottom of the door to fit, if it’s on the side wall. And make sure it swings in, if not it will hit the rafters.

 

are you building the shed on a slab, It seems the only way you could build a full 7' wall is on a slab.

 

It's on 4x4 skids. I'm seeing online where the inside is 7 feet from floor to top of 2nd top plate. These plans sucks.

 

Maybe it’s for other states, from plan it’s from bottom of the joist to top of plate, so you going to cut it to 74.5. you have to stay under 7’ from bottom of joist to plate and under 10’ from bottom of joist to ridge. Anything over you have to tear it down and rebuild it. And that plan ain’t do you no good cause it’s a 1 for all shed plan, so it’s way more confusing than it is.

 

This is the plan from a neighbors shed. See what this one looks like.

 

That is a much better set of drawings in my biased opinion. It is much more clear exactly what they are dimensioning and the details are consistent with how to construct, and it is also a more common construction method than the other. Other differences from a brief look over, they call for a higher wood grade for everything, there are no 4x4 sleepers/runners under the floor joists, and there is not an option for the loft/attic area.

 

I cut the studs at 6' 7 and a half. That will put me at 7 feet with the bottom and 2 top plates.

 

That should work. Your siding may not cover the floor joists but I doubt that an inspector will call you out on that. If you point at the wall and tell him it is 7 foot I would bet he will sign off on it.

 

Don’t set you nail gun balls deep, it could fail. It should be flush or a hair below surface. Keep a few extra ties on site, so if the inspector doesn’t like the location, just add one where they wants. you could just frame the pre hung door on gable side when they already have calculation on the header size and jack stud.

 

I can't do a prehung without engineering making a change. I would have to do it later on.

 

The calculation is already in the plans door have header schedule just follow that, 2-2x6

 

They told me I had to build to the plan. I'm new at using plans like this but I don't see where it allows me to use a prehung without it being engineered into the drawings.

 

I would just build it without a door and get it inspected. Then add a door after the guy leaves and you talk about your Tundra for 15 mins. For a non ADU they mostly care that you’re paying more tax revenue and have some kind of permit, the details are less important unless its electrical/plumbing/living space. This is assuming there is no HOA/etc here that would care as well. That’s rough a permit is needed for a 120sqft shed, around here metros are 100-120 max, suburbs 150-200 and rural 200 sometimes 800.

 

They won't inspect it until it's 100% done. What a PITA lol.

 

but there is no drawing spec on the ground attachments. your neighbor one have it???

 

It's a separate document for some reason but yes he has it anchored.

 

I think all you need is the parts in red circle. All the other parts are irrelevant or you could added after the inspection.

 

Tie points is simple, one on each corner and every third stud you need another strong tie from floor to stud. Tie on every rafters, just have to use two different tie, one for stud to rafter when they meet and plate to rafter.