1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Sounds like carb to me, I’ve experienced similar and everything appeared okay but a new carb fixed it (new carbs are cheap, rebuild is easy though if you can get a proper kit).
Do you have spark now? I had a spark issue on my 353, turned out that the coil gap wasn’t correct (too close), gapped it properly and then ran great.

 

I was thinking WTF, he’s got an electric dirt bike with one gear but I’m guessing he’s got a gasser as well. Or do the electrics have more than one?

 

I've had this Honda about a year now. Traded the Talaria for this one. I miss it sometimes. Definitely pros and cons to both.

 

I admit I "eagle eyed" the gap, but in my defense my Milwaukee safties have bifocals
Yes I saw spark, but it didn't seem strong.
I put a new Walbro on my ancient snapper string trimmer a while back and it solved the issues (i swear it was only $15-18?) so I know that's prob where I'm headed. Thx for the advice

 

Expert, Ha!...maybe at pulling the throttle lever. In all seriousness, i can work on just any other carb, but the small chainsaw carbs tend to frustrate me the most. Probably because the orifices are so dang small, that they can’t always be cleaned out properly.

If you still don’t have spark, it can only be a few things. Check that the gap between the coil and the flywheel. It should be about a matchbook thickness (or business card) of gap. Also make sure to clean (sand) off any corrosion on them. You could also have a bad spark plug. Another spot is the plug cap. So make sure that is in good shape as well.

Check the L and H carb screws aren’t way out of whack. I think the baseline setting for them both are 1.5 turns out?

Also check that the fuel tank vent isn’t clogged.

The needle on the end of the float can be worn out, yet it will not be able to be seen by the naked eye. It’s always best to replace them (using OEM parts). If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, i’d give it a dunking. Have you priced out how much a replacement OEM carb would cost? Because sometimes it’s easiest to simply replace the whole thing at once.

Pretty much everything i said you probably already know, but sometimes it’s nice to have someone else to say it (at least i appreciate when someone does that for me).

 

It’s common for the rear pumpkin to get hot enough that you won’t want to touch it with your hands, but from your description, it sounds like it’s getting a LOT hotter than that. If that’s the case, i’d put the rear of the truck on jack stands and start investigating. Do you hear any squealing when you rotate the tires by hand? Do you hear any noises when you put it in drive? Perhaps you have multiple issues? Maybe the brake shoes are dragging and the wheel bearings are getting excessive hot? Another thing, it’s not uncommon for the spider gears in the 8.4” third member to strip off its teeth.

 

ugh, lame. But i bet you were having a fun time right up until the impact. So what kind of bike is it?

 

It's a CRF125 Big Wheel. I definitely get judged on it but really don't care. It's a good size for a beginner like me. It's like a little tractor in 1st.

 

It doesn’t matter what you ride, just as long as what you’re riding puts a smile on your face! I’m a ktm guy, and i bought my first ktm back in 2003, but without a doubt, my favorite dirtbike was my old 1983 XR200r that i had back in the early 90’s.

 

So only 2nd? Not just a bent shifter?

 

How does it drive without the extra 300 lbs? I mean that's very little added weight so seems like some symptoms would exist always?

 

It drives perfectly fine, wont get hot, shifts seamlessly, quietly, engine isn’t screaming, rides like a cloud

 

After 3-5 attempts I can get into into 2nd. From there it goes into 3rd and 4th fine. It also downshifts into 2nd gear fine. The shifter doesn't appear bent at all. I'm assuming something internal was damaged.

 

Could the extra 300lbs in the bed be causing the rear brake proportioning lever thingy to somehow do weird things to the rear brake shoes?

Can you remove the oil fill plug on the back of the diff housing and see what the oil looks like?

 

Thx, I know I have the gap too tight now, but I still have the super-flooding problem. I will check rebuild kits vs new carb.
Clogged Fuel tank vent will cause flooding? I mean serious flooding like spraying out the plug hole after 4-6 pulls.
No corrosion on the magnet side, coil is brand new, spark plug as well.
H and L adjustments were really good last fall... unless screwing them in and out will clean them, I'm letting those be.
Thx for the tips yes, always nice to hear you didn't miss something obvious

 

I think I may need a family intervention. I bought this for $25 today to get the table for one of my now 4 vintage sewing machines I own.



You may ask if I’ve made anything yet. The answer to that question is no.

 

It’s a long shot, but my thought was that if the tank vent was blocked, AND if the weather was hot out, then possibly the tank could build up pressure and force extra fuel past the needle valve? But probably not. I’d probably start out by replacing the needle valve. When they get worn, it causes all sorts of grief. And even with the naked eye it might not even look worn, but it still can be. You can burnish the needle seat as well. I usually use a bamboo chopstick that i chuck up into my cordless drill. Triple check that the needle didn’t slip off the float. And triple check that the L adjuster screw isn’t too loose.

 

I've got one of those I inherited from my grandma.

 

I dunno, that sounds more like a shift linkage thing than anything. But I know jack shit about dirt bikes. ATVs is as far as I got, 4- and 3-wheelers, and I never wrenched on them. But I had a column shift truck that had similar symptoms and it was 100% tied to the linkage, simple adjustment fixed the problem. I figured that out when I swapped the engine.

 

Laughs in 2800

 

Break lines hooked up.

 

I’ve replaced the shift linkage on my ktm 950 and 990 adventure bikes a few times in the past. No doubt it’s different from a honda, but honestly i can’t imagine it being too different. With my ktm 990, part of the linkage needs to be adjusted internally. It involves loosening up a M6 screw then adjusting the shifter shaft retaining plate‘s slotted hole. If it isn’t adjusted properly, then it might make it impossible to shift into a different gear. At least with the ktm it’s a fairly straightforward process. I usually check the plates alignment anytime i’m digging into the clutch. It’s actually easier and cheaper than it sounds.

 

Trailer hitch I stall, final stages!!

 

I got a question for my fellow Yankees. How much y'all pay for a mint condition only needs axle seals, 3.961 axle in almost mint condition?

 

@FishNinja is a bit h for not taking peach cobbler with him

 

$225...and that included the LSD sticker on the back of the housing.

 

Yeah but I have zero rust lol. Just patina

 

I'm located in NW Oregon, so we don't have the rust issues. Once i brought the axle housing home i cleaned it with Purple Power and a pressure washer. The entire housing had a perfectly clean and rust free original matte black finish underneath all the dust and road film. Also the shoes, cylinders, hardware kit, drums, and seals were all in excellent shape.

 

Some of y'all can't see a troll post to save your life in this forum