What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Those Toro 2 stroke blowers are really under rated. Used to use them at work and up to 8 inches of snow they're awesome.

 

Oh damn, I forgot to post the other day I tried stirring the pot. I got these the other day.

 

What tool is it I need to replace those hubs? And is it the same one to do the UBJs? I'm gonna run to china freight tomorrow (after the madness dies down) and buy it. Ball joint press I believe?

 

You can borrow a ball joint press from advance. I couldn't make it work but others have. It's a spacing issue. You have to swing the spindle out so you can fit the press.

 

I figure this will be the first of many times I need one so I'll buy one. Why I bought the rear bearing/axle separator thingy remains a mystery...

 

So what did you go with on the OME setup wise and how much was it?? I'm probably ordering from wheelers too, but I'm torn between an OME setup or a Bilstein 6112 w/Wheelers 700lb sorings and 5160s or an OME setup.

 

After struggling with the harmonic balancer's removal this past weekend and getting nowhere without a puller, I did manage to remove it late Monday evening in the dark. My neighbor and I decided to wait until Friday to finish the timing belt and water pump replacement so I decided to clean up a couple parts and paint them along with a serpentine belt tensioner I purchased earlier. Primed and painted with POR 15 Blue, and with a new OEM thermostat and gasket installed.



Actually the paint when on smoothly and evenly, the picture's lighting doesn't do it justice. You can believe it that I used wire brushes - wooden handled and drill mounted, 2" sanding discs, and wet or dry sandpaper on them suckers for at least 5 or 6 hours.

 

I went with:

• 90004 x2 front shocks
• 60091 x2 rear shocks
• 2886 springs (they are titled rear springs but someone mentioned they do not make 886 rears so probably just a mistake on wheeler's end)
• Total: $687 shipped from Wheeler's
• Energy Suspension Insulator kit - The OME springs are narrower so to reuse the top hats I bought these on Amazon for $17.32 (total for everything $705.73

All of the "tundra" ome kits come with 885 springs which are 590lb so I went with 886 as they are 660lb rated for the extra weight of front bumper and winch. We'll see how it goes!

 

How much off roading do you plan on doing? I think the OME is designed for more frequent off road use. I almost went that route myself. I don't think you would be disappointed with either choice.

 

Decided that I'm going go tmrw afternoon an have a set of the XD882 Monster wheels put on my DC Tundra. I'll post some pics tomorrow.

 

Oooh - pretty. I didn't know they did blue. I love a clean sparkly engine bay. Nice work!

 

You can tell the prep work was done properly. Same here on not knowing about the blue. Looks nice!

 

That was me that saw the Wheelers typo...

 

Well, if we move out to the PNW, this spring/summer like planned it will basically become our camping rig and 3rd vehicle when needed...so hopefully a decent amount.

 

Perfect! I'm blaming you if it's wrong haha Appreciate it!!!!

 

Sadly, as far as Washington state goes, the places to really kick it up are diminishing fast as the timber companies vast acreage and the state forests are increasingly being gated to trespass. Between the garbage dumping, to include sofas, mattresses and often enough, toxic chemicals from meth labs, to attempting to get ahead of terrorists that might set the forests on fire, and the fact that there is very little logging going on - which means next to zero oversight, its become cheaper manpower wise to just install the gates.

Now should you move here as you stated and you like to hunt, I would be happy to put you on to some reasonably good bear hunting spots and clue you in on our elk herds and where they hang out, though the competition is pretty fierce with regards to the elk. Blacktail deer, a small subspecies of the mule deer, are everywhere and next to impossible to hunt as our timber and brush is so lavish and thick. On the east side of the Cascade mountains is open country with plenty of muleys, especially in the alfalfa fields and elk in spots. Under a lottery permit system a lucky hunter can hunt big horn sheep, and moose. And in those Cascade, and possibly the Olympic mountains, I believe there is still a season for mountain goats.

Lastly the fishing can be quite good. And it can be quite poor. As most of our fisheries are anadromous fisheries, the sea conditions often take an extreme toll now with the global warming and changing pH. But when it does work, fingers crossed it can lead to some great fishing for 5 species of Pacific salmon plus my favorite, the steelhead trout. Our rivers don't hold a lot of trout as they typically go to sea, whether rainbows - to become steelhead, or cutthroat trout - to become sea run cutthroats. We do manage on some rivers to have a fair population of Dolly Varden - commonly called bull trout, though most rivers are closed to targeting them.

The PNW is a fantastic place to live if you are into the great outdoors, but be aware that the greenery is a result of a fairly constant rainy season from September to the end of June, with October through March typically the rainiest period. I've travel through all the states except Maine, lived on both coast in various places, plus Hawaii and Alaska and I wouldn't trade Washington for any of them, rain or not.

 

@bmf4069 if you're doing front bearings you'll just need a ball joint separator to get the spindles out. The leverage press kind works if you are keeping the ball joints, if not a pickle fork will do. If replacing ball joints, while you have the spindle out the ball joint press for the upper should be a breeze.

For the bearing I'm not sure if 4wd is the same as 2wd but for 2wd you need a big special socket that has 4 pins that insert to the hub nut. I think that may be 2wd only though, I would imagine 4wd bearings might be held in by the axle nut instead.

 

I only needed a tie rod puller, I used a ball P hammer on the LCA at the ball joint, then lightly tapped the ball joint with some wood and hammer

 

That works too but depends if there is rust involved, I've never been a fan of banging on parts. If he replaces his upper ball joints he will need a press.

 

I don't have the UBJs yet, but if they're bad enough I'll just run and buy some. I believe it's just a hub nut on there. This is a 2 part project so I don't overwhelm myself again. Hubs/bearings today, UBJ/LBJ and axles later. And swaybar links sometime.

 

• Cleaned MAF sensor
• Went to remove the extra fuel vapor filter only to find it was already gone.
• Dropped my spare tire and greased the rear cross member and hit the other areas I missed.

 

Bought this cause it was stupid cheap. Meant for a 09-14 F150 but Amp doesn’t make one for our 1st gens anyways so figured I’d see if I Could make it work.

 

Had two different people (passengers) comment on my lumbar support mod I posted about last week using the food insulation. They had no idea until getting in that anything was done. Both said, ‘Wow this lumbar support is nice!’. Pic #2

I also said there was a bonus mod coming in which similar materials were to be used. I added insulation around the perimeter of the front seat cushions to bulk up the sides and leg edge. Pic #1

Both mods make a huge difference in comfortability at zero cost. In retrospect, one could cut in half a pool spaghetti floaty or similar half round foam object and stuff in these areas.

One more easy mod that makes the truck even better. Considering doing some seat track bushing cushions at a later date (for grins), as another mod.

 

When is the ‘Sham Pow!’ gonna happen? We are patiently waiting.

 

Was gonna be today, but I remembered my jack is in the shop. And it's a bit cold out side. I might get it tomorrow. On a side note, my brakes are doing the squeak in reverse thing again. I'm wondering what that is now....

 

I started that yesterday. I was hoping it was just the weather and moisture because it wasn't there today. I did however get a strange rolling vibration (think rrrmmmmm ---------- rrrmmmmmm---------)in what I'm assuming was the front end at speeds under 40mph and it went away when I engaged 4wd. Strange stuff.

 

Got the new u-joint installed today. It didn’t change much. It might have made it slightly better, but that could be placebo effect.

I think I discovered what the actual cause of vibration is. My inner CVs have a TON of up/down play, meaning the bearings or whatever they ride inside the diff is shot. And time have part numbers in those? I’m trying to look at diagrams, but they Toyota diagram is a bit confusing.

 

My brakes have squealed in reverse ever since the first shoes were changed back there. Look at it as a ‘back up warning device’.

 

Man, you've been chasing that ghost all year. If it's a front diff issue, would you really feel that all the time, even in 2WD?