1st Gen 2WD DC

I did not this time because I knew I was pushing limits on up travel all around. The front sway was some added insurance. But, once I nail my stop distances, that sucker is off for off road.

 

do you have quick disconnect links or do you unbolt it each time?

 

I have to unbolt. Maybe down the road I figure out something more user friendly.

 

got it. do you secure the loose end somehow?

 

I've just taken the links off and tie the bar up. But I haven't run it hard disconnected yet.

 

ok cool, thanks

 

A few updates. Some pics and what I think I've done since last update.

1. front and rear brakes; GX460 front pads, rotors and machined calipers.
2. Re-colored the Duracoat on the top
3. BFF sliders w/ the weld tab, bolt option. 2K Raptor Liner rattle finish after POR15
4. Chase light
5. Disco stick - 5150 Whips, 3' 187 model
6. phone / radio mount

 

I feel like the were 120 or something. I don’t exactly remember

 

How did the GX front brakes end up working out for you?

 

Sorry I missed this one, Sam. Slightly better than before, not life changing. May try a new master/booster at some time....

 

I haven't done much to catch up on this thread, but I was asked what I was doing with my air horn so here goes:

I have this horn mounted inside the frame rail on the passenger side.

https://hornblasters.com/products/safety-horn

They need a compressor/air tank/ 1/2" air line. I had the compressor and a tank so seemed like a nice add. I've been running it for a while on a momentary switch, but sometimes you just need to be able to use the big horn on the steering wheel, so the momentary switch became an on/off switch.

Off = OEM horn(s)
On = Air Horn + OEM horn(s)

I found out that the horn on the wheel is a negative switch. You push it and it completes the circuit to activate the horn, but apparently, there are no 12v wires inside the cab to act as horn switches. So I tapped my trigger switch (12v) at the driver side oem horn and ran that wire into the cab.

A momentary switch is pretty easy, because you just fuse tap a 12v source at the fuse box, run that to the momentary switch, and then to the air horn which you just ground at the frame.

Both switches I have used are 16mm, so installing the new switch in the dash was easy, the modding to the blank was already done.

I wanted the LED to be off when the switch is off, on when the switch is on. Unfortunately, this switch only is able to on/off the LED light if the LED and (switch) wires are together. That would only light the LED when you push the horn which is useless. So, I had to wire an ign 12V to the LED wire and the Horn trigger wire separately. Which means, the LED is on whenever the ign is on. Doesn't matter what the switch position is, LED is on. Lame, but I'll be OK. The switch is flush in the off position and depressed when on.

After trying everything I could to get that led powered separately from the horn trigger, I deviated from the instructions a bit and went:

12v ign to switch LED
12V from horn to switch power
Switch wire out to air horn positive
Ground to ground

Here are pics of the old switch and some of the steps for the new one.

 

awesome build man.

 

Thanks brother - same to you! @zoomspeed05

 

I guess I missed it. Where’d that phone/ radio mount originate?

 

It was a brainstorm to reinvent the plastic side fillers into steel mount points. And put some useful already made 20mm ball attachments there. The only option I've seen for Gen 1 is a mount plate that sits up on the dash, but you have to drill into the dash and I didn't want to.

 

Finally got around to strapping my front and rear. There was about 1-1 1/2" down travel after the front shocks topped out, and maybe 4" or more after the rear shocks topped out.

 

Converted the load sensing proportioning valve to manual adjustment.

 

I’m not ready to move on from this. Im impressed. Ingenuity —> ingenious!

 

Ugh. This is higher math. I cannot keep up.

 

For the horn switch, did you consider feeding the led input from parking lights?

 

No I didn't. As you may know I wanted it red when the switch was on (air horn active) and no red when it was just the OEM horn. It would give me a visual reminder that hitting the horn would send full 120db or something. But, the switch itself seems to not want that, so for now I settled with always on. I had a relay in my hand because I thought I could figure out how to out smart the switch. But, I keep coming up blank. If I'm reading the directions right, it really wants the power (in my case the oem horn trigger) connected to both the led wire and the wire that reads 12v for the horn. It just doesn't make sense to me that the switch itself which has 4 power/led options doesn't allow you to seperate the led power and the trigger power. Maybe if I sent you the directions it would make sense to you. I was fully expecting it to work as I anticipated, but I tried several different wiring options and no joy. Maybe it just beat me, or maybe a 12v source that is momentary really bothers it because it wants to be the only switch.

 

I assume it’s expecting parking light as the input, so you can see it in the dark.

But, you can get this going.

switch input (green?) off fused battery power
Switch led power (red?) off ignition
Feed switch output (blue?) to a relay as the + coil 86, ground the neg coil 85 and also ground relay switched output pin 87
Ground for the switch LED (black?) to 30 on the relay. Now light is on only when enabled. harder to find at night though, I’d just do the led off parking light myself but I see the appeal.

Many aftermarket switches have both illumination led and enabled led. But our blanks are dumb ovals.

The janky oval switches do have an indicator. Not sure if they have illumination.

note you also have to feed switch output to the power relay. If you want to be super above board with that you might employ diodes. But a good relay should be fine with isolating multiple coils off a single trigger I think.

 

I’d keep your air horn power relay independent w coil neg from the Oem ground switched horn trigger and coil pos from the output of the switch. That’s a nice clean setup.

 

Looks like the switch can do NO or NC so you might be able to kill the OEM horn power off the same switch, making it a re-route rather than a me 2 if you wanted. Depends on how they sound together. I assume the Oem horn is inaudible w air horn enabled.

 

Thank you brother! I'll play with that when I'm ready to pull the harness again. You are correct, there is no telling there is a factory horn when the air horn hits.