1st Gen 2WD DC

Here’s the droop and up travel, limited by sway bar and bump stops only, for what that’s worth.

 

You can buy new foam inserts off eBay. I did to replace the old nasty ugly ones and the new ones work great. I actually have an extra set for the front I think….

 

Looks close to maxed out there. Good choices on your kit. I have Camburg but was able to compare them with @jImmegart TC arms recently, I now think they are better designed than my Camburg.

I won't tell you which one has bigger nuts, don't ask

 

I think you have bigger balls, 1.25 to my 1.00, but I not counting....

 

LOL....stuff takes time. Money too

EDIT: just read this again, then looked at some of my stupid posts, cleanup underway.....

 

The balls actually looked the same size, I had heard TC used bigger ones. The bolt and nut on the TC arms was bigger, the wrenches I used on my arms weren't big enough for those nuts so we needed bigger sockets.

 

The TC bolts are 3/4 shaft" Can't remember the head size, 1 1/8 - 1 1/4?

 

Have you noticed anything with the sway bar extended links? I bought them but haven’t installed them yet. I need to buy new sway bar bushings first.

 

Yes, I noticed increased travel and no bent links. I like mine, I've seen at least one other I like a lot. I think some drop the sway bar, but it seems to me that extended links are the way to go. Mine are 2" ext for a close to 3" front lift.

I also noticed with extended coilovers, I only had to push the hubs down for install. I'm pretty sure based on past experience, I would have had to disconnect the sway bars at stock length.

 

@Professional Hand Model was right. No bump spacers needed with King OEM. Ride just improved and I hit hard the other day and it was all spring/shock smooth - no top out.

 

Excited for your progress going forward!

 

Just out of curiosity, I see you have the High Dolla King Ric Flair Shocks up front and wonder why one needs the non OEM LCA Bump Stops/Spacers in the first place after forking out pretty pennies?

 

today, I don’t think I do, I could never get to the definitive answer as to whether it was possible to top out the shocks. So I went with what I thought was safe to protect them. I think I’m only limiting them....

 

First coat with Seymour after adhesion promoter.

Edit: don't use Seymour, it's better than Rustoleum but crap.
I was just going to buy new caps, but hard to find pre-07. So far looks like the best I have tried, but we will see...

 

Can you do mine after?

 

Lol, if I can get to the point I have a solid workflow, perhaps....

 

Hard to tell, especially with the Rustoleum having a week dry time. But, I’m kinda leaning toward Seymour. I’ll have a better idea after some curing.

 

On a side note, here is about 20 min to clean up the bay with no pressure wash...

 

Everything looks good new with prep, only time will tell. But the Seymour looks awesome today...EDIT - it's crap

 

Seymour is definitely my BL of choice... bumper, grille, hood, and tonneau. Holding up extremely well and touch-ups are quick and easy if chipped by rocks. Taking yer time with prep and using adhesion promoter goes a long way. Keep up the great work!
2021-05-02_04-55-25 by GhostCreekMine, on Flickr

 

This is a great forum. I owe a debt of gratitude to @Professional Hand Model and others here as well. Coming from a strong online Jeep community I'm really surprised that Gen1 Tundras have such a loyal base, I'd have never guessed. This community is far friendlier than most of the Jeep forums, and equally helpful. Lucky to be a part of it. Good peeps!

 

Make sure you get all the water out around the spark plugs/ coils. Hit it with some compressed air.

When I went to look at my coils due to a misfire, some coils were all dry rotted because water would get it (I would just let the engine air dry, stupid I know). My mechanic neighbor says he sees that all the time. Water getting in and causing premature wear.

 

These are really nice @Coupe . Mine's raw but I'm sure I will coat it. I think I'm on my own for a Gen1 ARB bracket though.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/221970805173

 

After MD brunch and before WSL.

 

Damn that looks pretty good. Wasn't sure about the black accents on charcoal truck, but with the black wheels I think it works. Very nice

 

The other 12v passenger side cover ate it, I considered a 110 inverter plug, but I have that with the cig lighter and a plug in inverter. So, just doubled down.

 

Removed the front duroBumos and replaced with stock. (Front arms, front bumps). Left the front arm (rear duroBump stops). Seems smoother. Checked my zip tie guides, and it appears I’m about 1/4-1/2 an inch from topping out the shock as at full hard compression. Around 2,5” at up travel, Pre-extended, probably perfect. Extended, I think I have 1/4-1/2” more up travel or more, without sacrificing needed down travel. Gonna pre load both sides 2 turn more. Maybe .4” lift at the hub. But really not looking for lift, just the shock sweet spot. I’ve heard 50/50, and 3/2, 3 being up travel.

May also go against the grain at some point after this experiment, and load 700 driver spring and 650 passenger.

 

Clean and badass.. Great job