2013 5.7 V8 - Wrist Pin Failure @ 130,000 miles

Roger that. Appreciated.

 

I understand now. I wasn’t sure if it was the same issue or something different.

 

So… for anyone still interested in the wrist pin drama…

I grabbed two more professional opinions; both well referred, thorough and outside of the dealerships but also used to working on Toyota trucks. The second opinions both brought attention to what they believed to be a wrist pin issue. “Could cause problems for you tomorrow… or another 100,000 down the road”. Short of opening it all up and pulling it, they both said that’s what they think it is. However, they found an additional issue which would explain the mechanical slapping noise on top of the deeper knocking from below; timing tensioner. Nice catch “Endagon”.

Apparently this is now my priority issue and an immediate one.
So… I am throwing in the towel and getting an engine replacement. I was left with the following options:
$3,500-$4,500k for the tensioner replacement as they both insist on replacing all of them while it’s opened up. Apparently they get finicky and they don’t like the liability on the existing tensioners once they put it back together. I get it. This still leaves me with a failing wrist pin that could cause problems tomorrow or 100,000 miles down the road.
Or… $13k, per the dealership, including $3000 in labor to swap the engine and drop one with 59k miles.
I am shopping the engine replacement around, including ‘those’ shops that prep for auction. Will try to get that $13k down as much as possible and leave it on the job site for a backup driver. I have a few leads.

I have since stopped driving it and bought a 3500 GMC diesel. I can use the payload/tongue weight and start pulling my own equipment I guess.
Regardless, I’m done and moving on. Dealership not offering any financial help or gesture of good will and still waiting to hear back, formally, from Toyota Corp. Not a big deal, but no more Toyotas for me; 130k? Which sucks… because GMC and Ford are asking waaaaaaay too much for their plastic interiors.

I just spent the last 2-3 weeks navigating this ridiculous truck market. An absolute mess and people have literally lost their minds.

Thanks for all your help, guys! Appreciated.

 

Thanks for the update. Did you buy a new or used 3500?

 

I bought new. Assuming you are able to find a new vehicle being sold within $1000 over msrp, new vehicles are selling for the same as used up 38k miles and with a warranty?
The next price break seems to be at 60k and the savings didn’t make sense to me or I couldn’t find the options I needed. At 100k+ miles… their are some options out there… but the interiors are heavily worn/ damaged and my kids are going in the back seat, etc. They’re still a lot money.
GMC currently offers a 36 month 0% APR….. so I just pulled the trigger to be done with it and under full warranty.

 

Service ‘intervals’? I averaged around 8500k for oil change intervals, followed Toyotas recommended general service intervals, inspections, fluids checked regularly… filters, etc. The truck wasn’t garaged… so there that. And Kansas City can be hard with the extreme temperatures swings, but I don’t think either are direct causes; possibly contributed? I don’t know.

I thinks it just going to be one of those things. Mechanics all agreed that it was not common. I have never had any of these issues on my previous tundras either.

 

Understood and appreciated. I didn’t run with 8500 intervals to save money… I did it because that is what Toyota recommended. And it would make me nervous buying another one knowing that a wrist pin could fail if I was 3,000 miles late for an interval. Point taken though and I am learning a lot.
This will be my first diesel truck so will be taking all of the advice I can get

 

If a wristpin is loose you might get an indication by looking down the spark plug hole with an endoscope capable attaching a 90* mirror and a focal length that would allow to to see the top of the piston where it interfaces the cylinder walls. Pull all the plugs and slowly rotate the crank and watch while the cylinder in at TDC or even BTC. BTC might be easier since it would be easy to find a flexible endoscope. Another way and preferred is to use a dial indicator. You'll see the piston has stopped moving as the crack turns. Lowest tech way is use a clean dowel rod and feel for that dead area.

 

Thanks. Good advice. I have had three qualified techs tell me it’s a wrist pin. I think I’m going to ‘stay in my lane’ and call it good. Ha. It’s a wrist pin.

 

Fantastic and greatly appreciated! Familiar with some of the points while also taking note of the others. I had my suspicions about the 20" wheels...you just confirmed them. I average out around 16,000lbs and also popped for the longbed... i am worried the long bed may also contribute to wear/turning?
My friends drive the Super Duty's/diesels so I am hoping they will keep me straight and help me out the first year.
Regardless, thanks for the tips and filter link. Will look into all of it.

Have a great week!

 

If new motor is the option chosen, I would roll with it till the old one pops. Get your moneys worth

 

That would be ideal. Although for the safety of my kids in the back, I’m hesitant to lower my guard too much. Or… just don’t put the kids in that one… right?

 

Not sure how it would affect your kids anymore than a dead battery or flat tire would, but you could always use your other truck if you felt it was a safety risk.

 

Don't know what to say besides
Uncommon for a 5.7.
It definitely should of had oil changed every 5k, mine comes out clean every oil change the one time I got caught while moving states , I said it would be fine to go another 1,200 miles the oil looked terrible.
If it is indeed a wrist pin the failure I would lean towards highly dirty oil or oil consumption/low oil for a wrist pin or connecting rod to go that wasn't factory defective. By chance did it start smoking or burning oil? If it hasn't I would have the short block cleaned and a new wrist pin and connecting rod put in with a mild hone job.

also many people have there favorites of oil and filter choices mine are Wix XP filter with Castrol high mileage full synthetic 0-20. Toyota's love Castrol and so do there Racecars .

 

Final comment.

Engine was removed this week and replaced with a used one; 65k mileage.
Given that the mechanics had their hands all over it, I asked if they had an opinion on why the wrist pin failed. They also feel it may have been due to oil issues; suggesting a shorter interval. They found a lot of metal shavings in and around and feel that a shorter interval would have helped to reduce this. Soooo… to all those recommending the 5,000 oil interval vs my 7-8,000… you may now take a bow and enjoy your victory lap! Who really knows… but dirty oil seems to be consensus. Live and learn. The used replacement engine came with a warranty that specifies oil changes at 3 months for 1 year, regardless of the mileage. Then suggests around 5,000 beyond that. Interesting that Toyota Corp isn’t doing the same thing?

Thanks again for the comments; very helpful. End-

 

Thanks for the update.

Dont want to stir the haggered debate but I think people really overlook the basics.

Im a 5k mile oil changer. I dont use toyota brand oil/filters nor the recommended, “engineered” weight in the good book. Im creepin’ on 220k and the motor is perfect. Never even had a CEL.

However, I think with proper usage and good oil/filters, 10k changes (even with oil designed to get MPG’s, save emission systems but be JUST good enough for your motor…i.e. 0/5w-20) can go 200k+ no prob.

Proper usage being a freeway/open road commuter.

If you are towing, live in extreme weather environments (heat or cold), idle/stop/go a lot or a combo of all…10k changes with crappy, watery thin oil will eventually be a death sentence vs better stuff.

 

None of my 10k OCI vehicles have met their demise yet. I only do 5k on the 2019 to keep the lifetime powertrain warranty.

 

All this talk of OCI because of some YouTube dude that gets paid by the views he attracts.