2022 TRD Pro Towing Squat. -HELP Requested

Depends on the model you buy and its payload and towing capacity. Those numbers will be within any Tundra models specs. Two camps on here, the “tow 10-20% below ratings at all times” folks, and the “it’s rated for X, so I can tow all the way up to that much” guys. Both are correct for different reasons. If you follow all the ratings and stay within in them for your model, Toyota says it’ll tow safely. Doesn’t account for driver skill or comfort. I’m leaving the “it moves forward when I hooked it up so I’m good to go” guys that pull 40ft goosenecks and 5th wheel campers as they are clearly in their own class and discussion. Oddly the same guys that are looking for “best rotors that don’t warp” and “RAS+airbags+custom leaf pack” for the soft rear suspension.

 

Owners manual has some good info too:

Weight distribution hitch for over 5000lbs
Anti away device after 7000lbs
Don't go over 65 mph while towing
Vehicle was designed for "occasional towing"

I am in the tow below the limit camp. Also if you want to put anything in the bed while you are towing you need to watch the tongue weight as payload is only around 1400lbs from the door stickers I've seen posted

 

Thankyou all and well it appears that there is much more thought into these Tundra towing decisions. I fall into the in-between categories of the Two camps on here, the “tow 10-20% below ratings at all times” folks, and the “it’s rated for X, so I can tow all the way up to that much” guys. I think since Toyota posted the numbers (they did the extensive testing) that the truck should safely handle , then it better damn handle it and with authority an with no issues but also i steer closer to SAFETY FIRST not just for my family but also for others on the roadway. I understand where many of you are coming from “hey the car says it will do 140mph but is it safe to do that absolutely not “ but Sweers said the Tundra was lifestyle design an will tow safely 12,000.

 

Their posted numbers are super misleading. A 12,000 lb trailer would have a tongue weight of about 1200 lbs. Add a ~200lb driver and you're at max payload. It was all new to me but I think I finally have my head wrapped around it.

 

There’s a third category, I’m in it: why the heck are we trying to tow 12k lbs with a half ton? I don’t think it matters what it’s legally rated to tow, it’s a half ton at the end of the day. If you’ve got a trailer in the 9k-12k lbs range, that you tow with any regularity, I feel like you’d be better served with a 3/4 ton.

I suspect the reason that these half tons are regularly pushing larger and larger tow numbers is because the manufacturers essentially are moneyballing the government regulations. Tweak this, tweak that, and get a few more pounds of payload or towing, regardless of whether or not it’s realistic.

This is the same reason why they can post such high MPG numbers that we are unable to achieve, they know the test parameters and tune the engines to achieve optimal efficiency on the mileage test, but not in the real world

 

100%. The manual says the Tundra is designed primarily as a passenger vehicle. There are trucks on the market that were primarily designed to tow/haul

 

It seems to me it's all marketing. How many people decide to buy a GM instead of a Ford in a given year because it tows 13,100 lbs instead of 13,000 lbs? Just so they could say they got the top halfton that year? As long as consumers keep demanding more, manufacturers will keep finding ways to push the numbers.

 

They post 12,000lb towing , you buy a trailer rated at 7500. That is a 37.5% percentage decrease of 12,000. And yet the truck might have issues … … (sag,suspension,drivability…..)feel its very misleading


anyway ill stop bixchin bout it just more daily living things we must overcome an stay positive !!! peace ✌️

 

That's exactly what I'm talking about. They spend significant R&D dollars figuring out how to manipulate their product in such a way that the federal guidelines allow them to push ever larger numbers. This is different (and cheaper) than figuring out how to actually make the truck tow smaller loads better.

 

That's the exact specs of my trailer. With the WDH setup properly it tows it great. Honestly though, I wouldn't go any larger. Once my kids are out (about 4 -5 years from now) we're going to get a smaller trailer for the two of us.

 

Thanks to this thread I just installed

$126 Firestone 4164 Coil-Rite Air Helper Spring Kit

Firestone 4164’s over the weekend, at the same time I installed the Westcott lift. The bags work great. Easy install, removed all my sag. The ride is worse than stock, but installing the lift and bags at the same time make it hard to tell which caused that. But I’m guessing it’s 90% the front lift.

 

Looks really good. I’m looking at reviews on Amazon of the Firestone, is this essentially what you did for install: “You do NOT need to remove springs. Flatten bag, fold ends inward and then fold like a hotdog bun. Use two tie wraps to hold it folded. Insert between springs (will need to jack up from frame so springs expand and wheels hang) and then carefully cut tie wraps for bag to inflate while inside springs. Tons of YouTube videos out here…you can do it!”

 

doesn't that just take away from what the pro is in the first place with throwing a spacer lift and bags on?

seems like forcing an off-road suspension truck which is meant to shine off-road and forcing it to be something else would be negating the purpose and cost of that model which is the nicer stock suspension it comes with.

just a random likely worthless thought I guess, to each his own

 

I think anymore a large portion of people buy these types of trucks (TRD Pro, Raptor etc.) for the appearance more so than the off road performance

 

Yepppp

If you want to have an off road beast, you buy an SR5/Limited TRD Off Road and mod it up

TRD Pros and Raptors are for people to want to keep it relatively stock. No point in getting a Pro and changing out all the suspension. After that, you're basically just left with a tailgate stamp and marker lights lol

 

Hey OP, buy this:

https://www.weigh-safe.com/product/weigh-safe-drop-hitch/

it has a scale on it to tell you hitch weight, its not 100% but it works well,I've had mine for 2 years and it survive Ontario winter just fine.

and I think WDH would help a lot, if it still sags more than normal, get bags.

To some, I think that's the case, to others, we just ended up modifying everything and anything anyways.

 

Kinda sorta. I hated all the color matching and changes I’d have to make to the limiteds to make it what I wanted, and the platinums don’t come in any cool colors or have a rear locker.

Eventually I’ll upgrade the suspension to Icon Stage 7, but that other guy saying all you get with a Pro is suspension and a tailgate is pretty far fetched… if everything was MSRP and easy to get I may have gone a different route. But the Pro was my best bet at getting the truck I actually wanted. Also, I can afford it so who cares ‍♂️

 

I already had the springs out to do the lift install, but I read multiple sources saying it’s not necessary for install of the bags.

 

I’m trying to fix the sag issue on my 22 TRD Pro as well. I have a retrax, uptop AFS with a roofnest condor. At full camp set up with 14g water, 4g rotopax, food and supplies back end sags a fair amount. I want to keep the plush off road ride, and don’t want a full overhaul of the suspension. I did see some guy one YouTube who said he took the springs from a land rover that is based of same platform to level out his rig. Anyone heard of this and know if I can just drop into existing fox suspenion?

 

Land Rover?? Did You mean land Cruiser?

 

Lol yes my bad, was writing tired last night.

 

We got our first snowfall last night which nicely coincided with my TRD Pro passing the break-in point where I can tow at low speeds. As such, I scrambled around to put our travel trailer into a better winter parking position. The trailer is big at 34" and has a dry weight listed at 7,500 lbs. The trailer jack was either frozen up, has a bad wire, or is seized in some way so it wasn't working and I had to make do with my floor jack. Nonetheless the results were that without the WDH hooked up the truck dropped by ~3.5" at the rear. I threw the WDH springs on just to see what would happen (I was only moving it about 50ish feet) but was limited by the max height of my floor jack, once the WDH was quickly setup (I'm sure I could do it better) the rear end drop was about 2.25". I'm on the fence about keeping this travel trailer, unfortunately for my decision making process, last night's experience still has me on the fence as the truck could likely handle it once I get the trailer jack fixed and have some more time to setup the WDH properly (I was sort of hoping it would convince me the trailer was too big for the truck and I should get rid of it once and for all).

 

That’s a big trailer for that truck. What’s the GVWR for the trailer? I’m betting with it hooked up and just 2 passengers your over payload? I’m actually surprised it looks as good as it does hooked up.

 

I have a 4500 lbs trailer connected to the Tundra with a Weigh Safe WDH. I measured before and after and it looks like I have about 1/2" drop in the rear. Our TRD does't have the Pro suspension so it is probably stiffer.

I was able to adjust the hitch and using the gauge and the app "TrueTow" I was able to add weight distribution by adjusting the head tilt. There is a large nut to turn to set this load.

I had this on my other truck (Ridgeline) and just swapped it over and after a few adjustments, I was ready to roll.

+1 on this hitch.

 

Airbags are the only solution if a WDH isn't doing enough. I do not tow with my truck but I do load the bed up a lot. Even with ~300lbs of cargo there is a noticeable amount of sag. That's just the way it is with soft suspension. I don't mind the tradeoff since the truck performs better on and off road as a result when unladen. If I needed to tow often with it (I.E. car trailer) I would certainly get airbags.

 

Too big for a halfton. Smaller trailer or heavy duty truck is the way to go.

 

I'm wondering if I get a front metal bumper it will help balance out the sag for my off-road set up. Looked at Wescott designs leveling preload collar but worried it will make my ride harsher. The guy at my local shop has it on his older Tundra TRD PRO and swear it made his ride softer, I'm not exactly sold yet.

 

There are a lot of asterisks next to that 12000 lb tow rating. It needs to be a 2x4 Doublecab SR5 and your trailer needs a 10% tongue weight that doesn't exceed 1200 lbs with a weight distribution hitch correctly dialed.

I am sure in a perfect world where I tow a flatbed trailer with low profile iron plates on it that is perfectly balanced to a 10% tongue weight that my 2014 F150 would have no problem towing the 11,100lbs its rated for as well.

In real life, I am towing a trailer with a 13-14% tongue weight, with a 60 sqft frontal area, and doing it on freeways with 80 mph towing speed limits(I don't tow at 80, but not at 45 mph either) with 30 mph cross winds all sorts of other variables.

 

Yeah…the Wescotts in my opinion “ride like stock UNTIL you hit a few potholes/bumps and then you realize that it feels worse under those conditions…so its90% your ride quality problem assuming you did nothing else.

…add in some load E tires on top of everything else your teeth might just chatter

 

Maybe your truck just has a gangsta lean and you should accept it's decision.