2022 Tundra Suplemental Transmission Cooler?

After my recent experience with high temp alarm on my transmission under load on an incline I’m hoping for an additional cooler for the new 10 spd.

The dealer tested the truck in the field and the temperature was hitting 225F quickly which is out of range from my understanding.

Anyone seen a possible solution in the aftermarket?

 

You’re probably going to have to wait till someone gives a damn. The only reason the 2.5 gen have an aftermarket one is because a member here decided to do all the leg work and made a kit. Unless a 3 gen owner decides to do it, I am pretty sure no company will make one.

 

Well it won’t be long before others have the same problem so I’ll be patient.

Thanks for the background info.

 

That looks like a quality product. Thanks for the link.

 

I'm hoping the issue you brought up with tranny temps under a load cause them to look at the software that controls the thermal bypass switch for the current tranny cooler and it will save all of us who tow a trailer or actually put a load in the truck. I'm holding out hope it's just another software update.

 

I hope so too. Toyota engineering is aware of the issue so hopefully they fix it quickly.

The service manager felt this was the most likely culprit as well. A software update could patch the problem.

However isn’t there software where this value could be configured? I’ve seen posts about editing parameters on these trucks before, but maybe that function is not cracked yet.

 

I am not sure but if the cooling system is anything like the 2.5 gen then I don’t think an update will do much. You have to remember that the trans oil is being cooled by the engine radiator. Normal temp on it is around 190*. It’s also just a small tube inside the radiator. It’s hard for the oil to cool in such a small passage especially when the trans temps are 20-30* pass 190. Only way to absorb that much heat is a separate cooler. Toyota dropped the ball on this redesign when it came to the trans cooler. It was already proven that the 19-21 ran high temps when towing.

 

Yeah I feel the same way. The cooler they designed is just not capable of keeping the temps down.

In the meantime I’ll keep it in manual or 4Lo offroad.

I’ve got a big trip to Colorado with my camper coming up and will monitor with my Scangauge 3.

 

I had the same thing happen when pulling my camper through the mountains in NC. It only came on for a few seconds and went away. I’m hoping a TSB comes out to adjust that thermal bypass switch.

 

Looks legit. I have a JB4 Tuner hooked up to my 2022 Tundra and trans temps keep hitting 225F on a regular basis. In my opinion that's around 15-20F too high that's happening every time I drive the truck.

 

I bet the fan makes a huge difference at low speeds. I was eyeing the Setrab fan pack units the other day, but likely have no legitimate use for one since I’m all highway miles right now.

 

What menu are you using to see trans temp?

I tow 10k with my 22’, but have only towed in flat states with no elevation.

 

There’s no way to see it on the dash, not that I’ve found. Just the alarm warning “pull over” message.

I grabbed a scan gauge 3.

 

Sorry for the dumb question but is this kit considered universal fit? I just want to make sure it will fit the 24 Pro’s before I purchase.

 

This is the one you want. Pod and gauge.
https://bankspower.com/products/banks-idash-supergauge-datamonster

https://bankspower.com/products/ban...ta-tundra-single-gauge?variant=42379645092037



Discussed here;
https://www.tundras.com/threads/off...-tundra-discussion.130804/page-4#post-3454563

 

very nice combo, but in addition to that I need to upgrade to a trans cooker kit.

 

Make sure you post what you end up with. Now that I can see actual temp I may be looking at cooler addition when towing 7K#.

 

I own a transmission shop and I will tell you that 225 is definitely out of range. The transmission cooler that comes stock (PN- 329100C020) on these trucks is a joke! It's about the size of your fist and is bolted to the transmission. It's not like the typical old school cooler built into the radiator, although it still uses coolant. A lot of newer vehicles now have the transmission cooler built into the A/C condenser. There's not really going to be a "bolt on" solution. I will eventually be replacing my cooler with an aftermarket one as I live in AZ and we get summer temps over 115 degrees for extended periods of time (last year we went 35 plus days in a row over 115). The main issue with transmission coolers is that they will keep the same temperature as the coolant. If the engine overheats, the transmission overheats, and vice versa. A good operating temperature for a transmission is below 180 degrees. Heat is the biggest enemy to a transmission. Transmissions with 6 or more speeds are going to run hotter, especially a 10 speed. I'm surprised that Toyota is still using the WS ATF in these 10 speeds opposed to an Ultra Low Viscosity Fluid that the other OEM's are using in their 8 speeds and higher transmissions There's a couple of different ways you can add a separate cooler, but I always bypass the radiator because I like my transmissions to run cooler than the engine temperature. Luckily, there's A LOT of good real estate behind the grille to mount a cooler. Always use the plate and fin style, they are super efficient and work much better than the tube and fin style. Using a fan on the cooler is almost never necessary, unless you are pulling a heavy load and sitting in traffic for an extended period of time. I have an LS swapped El Camino with a heavily modified transmission and I run a B&M Super Cooler setup on it with a fan and that's all I use for my cooling. In the summer at 115 degrees sitting at a traffic light my transmission temperature doesn't exceed 180 degrees and the fan has only come on once or twice but that was at the drag strip. Once I get moving the transmission temp ranges in the 160s.
Something that is 11x8 or 13x11 and is plate and fin should be plenty. You may have to buy some conversion fittings if you get a cooler plumbed with 1/2 NPT to hose barb. I generally convert everything to NPT fittings because transmission output pressures can get to 160-200 psi on the output side, and that's a lot for hose clamps (although OEM's often use clamps) and I don't want to take that kind of risk. You'd have to also cap off or put a pass through fitting on the coolant inlet outlet as well. It sounds like a lot, but it's really fairly simple if you are mechanically inclined.

 

The thermal bypass valves are not switches and are not computer controlled. They are a basic thermostat, with a spring and plunger. A few OEM's actually have issues with the thermal bypass valves sticking. The purpose is to bypass the cooling system whether it is done through the cooling system or the A/C condenser until the transmission gets up to "operating temperature". This helps in colder climates. However, the thermal bypass valves can get stuck and continue to bypass the cooling system all together which eventually becomes catastrophic for the transmission. GM is on their 3rd redesign of their thermal bypass valves, and Dodge hasn't even addressed theirs. If you really want to make sure your transmission runs cooler, you will need to replace the puny OEM cooler and use an aftermarket one.

 

The thermal bypass is not really a switch, it's a thermostatic valve. It is controlled with a spring and plunger (just like the thermostat in your cooling system). They would have to come out with an updated or revised bypass valve in order to address any issues.

 

The fan is sort of overkill, depending on where the cooler is mounted. Those kits with the fan are designed to be mounted where there is little to no airflow, like in between frame rails under the vehicle or even in the bed (think of those Baja 500 rigs you see with the radiators mounted behind the rear window with fans on them). If you mount the cooler behind the grill you are going to get good airflow while moving, even at low speeds. I have a cooler with a fan on another vehicle mounted behind the grille and here in AZ even at 115 degrees out sitting in traffic or a red light, my fan never comes on because my trans temperature never gets over 180 to turn on the fan

 

This is gold in terms of information.

what’s your opinion on just adding a Derale remote fluid cooler with fan to solve the issue. Such as the following:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-13870?cm_mmc=ppc-google-_-search-_-brands-_-keyword

 

225 F is not outside of range, that’s slightly above nominal temp of 205 F. The limit is 265 F. That’s when the transmission temp gauge is in the red zone on the gauge if you have the digital cluster.

 

I had the trans temp alarm come on when I was elk hunting in Colorado. I was running 4W Low through a long stretch of muddy ruts. I was in and out of high\low. It come on for just a short while and then went away. No trailer, just out hunting.

 

If you are planning on mounting the cooler underneath the truck where there's not a lot of airflow, then one with a fan is a must. If you are planning on mounting it behind the grille then a fan is not necessary, you'd be spending money on something that will likely never get used (fan). I use both Derale and Hayden, their stacked plate or plate and fin coolers are very efficient. Something like either of these:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-13614
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-13402

 

Wrong, just because your gauge goes to red at 265 degrees doesn't mean you're ok, it means you're too late!! The ideal fluid temperature is under 185 degrees, as fluid ages it starts to break down and loses it's viscosity and detergents which affects its capacity to cool down the transmission. Each time transmission fluid is overheated it accelerates the breakdown of the fluid. At 220 degrees, varnish forms and seals start to harden. Anything higher fluid starts to burn, steel plates warp, clutch plates lose their frictions, parts in valve bodies stick.

 

How is the user of post #3 able to pull this off?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1740936-tranny-temp-and-stuff-overthinking-things.html

 

Lip service, I would call BS. I also do fleet work for Enterprise and Element Fleet and one of the most common 10 speeds we get right now from them are the Ford 10R80, 10R140 and the GM 10L series. One of the most common issues on the Ford 10 speeds is hot fluid venting out of the transmission amongst other internal issues. Just do a Google search for Ford 10 speed transmission issues and Ford 10 speed overheating issues and you will see. Not to mention several class action lawsuits. Funny thing is the Ford and GM 10 speeds are actually a collaboration design between Ford and GM.