22+ 3rd Gen Wheel offsets/fitment thread

Agreed if the width is kept down (and not a full 12.5 as most 35’s seems to be) he may be fine indeed.

 

That’s a 4.5” backspace and most people are going with a nine inch wide wheel with a 5.75” backspace, give or take. It shouldn’t be an issue with the inside at all. That’s 32mm more inside clearance

 

Looking for a set of the USA 20" TRD OR (Adventure pkg) rims, up here in Canada, so would need them shipped. PM me if you have a set you want to turn into cash, thank you!

 

Here is another option that wasn’t available on previous gens because of the five bolt

 

Www.centramatic.com

 

275/70 on 18x9 +18

 

Noisy?

 

Not in my opinion

 

Fitment looks great!

 

Just installed LT275/65R20 Copper AT3 XLT tires on stock TRD 20” wheels. These have 34.1 inch diameter. No rub, and fills the wheel well pretty well.

 

Looks perfect. How's the ride on the Cooper XLTs? Much noise? Considering the exact same set up.

Edit - just bought them!

 

Great choice!

The ride is a bit bouncy compared to the stock Falkens, but I think I need to air down a little since you need less psi with bigger tires. There is some noise, but is negligible.

 

what load range are they? That makes a difference too.

 

Yes, that’s part of the difference. They are E load range, 126\123S. Heavy duty tires.

 

Nice set up. I would also like to complement you on your picture taking skills, the lighting in your pictures is well balanced, with some of the pictures posted here it's difficult to actually see the tires.

 

What PSI are you at? Ive read a lot of XLT users are at 40-44 and still good on the chalk test. I'm coming off the 18-inch Michelin LTX Trail that comes with the CDN OR pkg.

Have driven the new TRD PRO and there was some noise off those Wildpeak ATs also, but it was tolerable.

 

I’m running them at 35 psi now. Very smooth; actually smoother than stock.

The truck is rated 35 psi on the stock 265/60R20. Given these tires are bigger and hold more air, I should be able to run them lower, at around 32-33psi, to achieve the same load capability.

 

32-33 is probably too low for an E tire. The truck rating is specific to the stock tire only. Having changed them, you'll need to go with what is suggested for the E, which will be about 50. At 32 they will generate heat and could delaminate from the inside. But even though 50 may be the recommended PSI, lots of owners are going less than 50 to improve the ride, which gets stiffer and more harsh the higher you go. If towing, you absolutely need to air up. Some good threads on this in the 2nd gen section.

 

Very interesting information Where do you find the suggested psi for the tire? I looked at the side. It only has max psi listed at 80psi for 3700 lbs load. My understanding was the lighter the actual load on the tire the less pressure you need regardless if the tire is C load or E load range.

Now more aggressive tires, such as mud terrains, will generate heat regardless, but much more when operating at lower psi.

Is there any information regarding the load range and the need to run higher psi, even when the actual load in lbs. is low? I’m going to do some research on this.

 

This is a really good thread on these tires, with lots of reference to pressures from owners.
And here is a link to XLT specs.

 

I also found some info in this thread. I guess I will increase the pressures to about 45psi, but it will get choppy. Thanks a bunch for the information!

 

45 is probably ideal but you can get away with 40 front, 45 rear. The F-150 lads have hashed this out to death.

 

Passenger vehicle tires are considered flat at 26psi. Once you run a tire below that the sidewalls start to heat up. That’s when you can start getting the heat ring on the sidewall. Another reason why you can’t patch a tire on the edge. That’s where the tire round off and it’s constantly flexing, which can cause the patch to fail. Bend a piece of metal enough times it’ll break.

All tires have a maximum psi and at the max that’s where you’ll find the max pounds the tire can handle. For example a 275/65r20 Toyo A/TIII at 80psi can handle 3748 lbs.

All vehicles have a door jamb sticker with the psi you’re supposed to run. That sticker is the air pressure for max carrying capacity and payload. Some companies actually had a loaded and unloaded pressure for the vehicle. Ram actually had a button inside that would change the TPMS from loaded to unloaded. It was something like 60 in the front, 80 in the back loaded and 50 unloaded. The front typically will never change since the motor and front end stays the same. The rear can go from empty to hauling 1500 pounds in the bed or towing 12000 pounds.

For the guys that drove a street queen daily driver and never towed. We would put their front tires at sticker and the rear at 35-40. The trucks always drove better and were complemented by the driver. If you drove a tow rig then sticker front and rear. If you randomly towed, sticker on the front and 50-60 in the rear.

No need for more air when the payload doesn’t require it. I’m running my setup at 38psi and I might go to 35. More air on a half ton truck with a heavier rated tire is ridiculous. All you’re doing is over inflating, which will cause the center of the tire to go bald faster. That means less of a footprint and less traction. You can put too little of air in some tires. That’s when you check the pavement dust for equal wear or do the chalk test (you can check over inflation this way as well). Too little of air you can put too big of a footprint and wear the outside of the tire faster than the center.

The trucks that required 10ply rated tires I’ve upgraded to 12ply. Then ran them at a lower psi that still accommodated the payload and the ride was way less harsh. Same for half tons with a standard 6ply rated tire. An XL, 8 or 10 ply rated tire rode much better because the way they took bumps and such. 12 ply was too harsh.

One last thing. The ply rating is actually an expression. Plies don’t exist anymore and it’s just terminology for payload. Because of modern tire engineering and the materials used, companies are able to create greater tire strength and capacity without adding layers or as some would call plies.
B 4 ply
C 6 ply
D 8 ply
E 10 ply
F 12 ply

 

I found this document with load vs psi charts for various load range tires. It clearly explains how to calculate correct psi going from p-rated to LT-rated tires.

https://www.toyotires.com/media/2125/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20170203.pdf

It seems 265/60R20 112 load index tire is rated about 2470 lbs for 35psi. This is stock Tundra TRD tire.

If you go to LT275/65R20, which I have done, I would need at least 45psi to be able to carry the same 2470 lbs load.

Now the door sticker psi states the max load. If you are not hauling anything, you can likely go a bit lower at the rear, and inflate back up when carrying stuff.

Again, thanks for the education!

 

Absolutely spot on, G. also explains it very well.

 

Where did you find that offset tool? Sorry if you've already answered this question. I'm still working my way through the thread so if you have I'll find it. Thanks!

 

No worries. Here you go: It works well for calculating how much new tires & off set combos will stick out compared to the OE setup.

 

So this and other threads on the topic are really helpful, but I'm curious as to when someone would move from a Passenger to a Light Truck tire. I get that off-roading might be a clear reason for LTs, but load rating would certainly factor into the equation for towing/hauling, correct?. If you have a Tundra-sized truck (versus a Ford F-250/350, for example) and you plan to tow/haul, it seems you could stick with a P tire with a high load rating or go with a LT tire also with a similar load rating. What's the pros/cons of each?

Thanks!

 

I think the main advantage for the LT tires is that they come in much larger sizes. There is nothing larger than 275/60R20 in p-rated tires that I was looking for. So if you want larger tires, you are stuck with LTs. LT tires can also be beneficial when rock crawling. They are less prone to tears and flats, as they are stronger. Finally, they can take much heavier loads than p-rated tires.

The main disadvantage of LT tires is the weight. They are in general much heavier, so your acceleration, stopping and fuel economy get hit.

P-rated tires are much lighter, and that is the main advantage. They are usually also less harsh compared to LTs.

Feel free to add anything else I missed.

PS: I would personally stick with p-rated over LTs tires if the size were available, as I think tire weight affects the overall performance of the truck. If considering to tow and haul a lot, LT may be a better bet.

 

Looking forward to seeing pics of your modified ride!