Best Brake Pads & Rotors...

Unless something changed, the pads should be the same. I believe there is a premium line and a value line of brake pads.

 

Look for any deep scratches on the rotor surface, if none then re-use them. I bought new ones, $170 for the set, but mine hard vibration on high speed braking when the pads and rotors would heat up. Normal day driving they were fine. If you reuse you rotors be sure to use a sand paper to sand them down some and remove any pad residual from the old pads. You will also want to bed in the new pads, that's why you need to scratch up the rotor surface, Plenty of info on here about it.

 

I've had warpping with the oem rotors. Tried powerstop they too warped within a month. Tried OEM again with no luck. Been running Raybestos r300 rotors with the element3 pads for the past 2 years. Even with high speed stops no warpping!

 

yeah the above quote said that. But I can’t tell which ones are the premium one. Thankfully I’m not in a hurry, so I have time to figure out the right parts.

 

I would figure the more expensive ones.

 

https://brakeperformance.com/

Always had good luck with their stuff on HD trucks and sports cars. USA made as well.

 

I put these on a few months ago with Hawk LTS pads couldn't be happier Code Item Rotors are Sold in Pairs Price Grand Total
T52-483-BP REAR PAIR - Slotted Rotors With Black ZRC Coating - T52-483-BP
1 $244.32 $244.32
T52-482-BP FRONT PAIR - Slotted Rotors With Black ZRC Coating - T52-482-BP
1 $268.53 $268.53
DSC-12 Tundra25
1 -$128.21 -$128.21

Subtotal: $384.64
Tax: $0.00
Shipping Cost: $0.00
Grand Total: $384.64

 

ADVICS ROTORS AND

 

Centric has outstanding slotted rotors. EBC’s dimpled rotors are good, also, but their pads are horrible. NAPA has Adaptive One pads that are excellent. Either purchase new calipers from a reputable manufacturer or rebuild the calipers yourself. And change the brake fluid every 2 years or 30K miles. I had 187,000 miles on my last set before I traded the truck and I am hard on brakes.

 

Mulling over options. Anyone use raybestos R-300 rotors? Looking at those with akebono ASP pads. Also see an Adelco kit that looks very similar. Not sure I want to fork up the cash for the stoptech cryos. Thoughts??

 

I have used the inexpensive Raybestos rotors on a lot of cars, and they have all been ok.

AC Delco rotors are just repackaged Raybestos.

Advics and OE Toyota are made by Waupaca Foundry in USA. They are usually pretty good but more $$.

Akebono ASP are good pads, but feel similar to OE.

Try Dynamic Friction Ultimate Duty (1400130301 and 1400130401) if you want a more aggressive pad with better pedal feel. However there will be an increase in brake dust.

 

I have the StopTech cryos. They are backordered until August at most vendors.

 

Just FYI about the stock rotors warping on the Tundra...My mechanic shop owner is a former Toyota employee and had worked there for many years. I don't know what division she worked in but when I asked her about the rotors warping on Tundras all the time the explaination she gave me was something I hadn't heard from anyone anywhere before. Apparently the Toyota design team was tinkering with the vehicle in an attempt to get the gas mileage up to a reasonable number for production. Part of what they did to resolve the issue was trim some of the heavier metal items installed down to the bare minimum required for standard safety requirements. She told me the first item they targeted was the stock installed brake rotors. Apparently they thinned the rotors down to the absolute bare minimum thickness required to pass safety requirements and that is why they are so succeptable to warping.

So there you have it, warping of the stock rotors explained.

 

Akebono pads, any rotors, not drilled

 

That's probably the silliest thing I've heard all week! All this talk of rotors "warping" is humorous, especially when a simple google search will tell you that's not really a thing. Physically warping a steel rotor is nearly impossible. What folks call warping is really just material build-up on the rotors. This is caused by a few things, but thinner rotors is not one of them. Usually caused by improper bedding (usually the case when you see a report of folks installing new rotors that warp within the first few 1000 miles or so), or heavy/repeated brake use generating a lot of heat. This happens a lot when towing downhill and dragging the brakes the whole time. There are glues and resins and epoxies in brake pads that get deposited to the rotor, along with some of the pad material itself, when properly bedded. Under heavy use these melt or off-gas when heated, causing an uneven/pulsing pedal feel. I can almost guarantee if you pulled the wheel off and rolled the rotor the metal itself is not "warped" like a bicycle wheel would do. Its just caked with uneven pad deposits and needs to be cleaned. A couple hard brakes usually clears them. If not, a good cleaning, or hit them with some sandpaper and replace the pads and you're back in business. The myth of warping rotors has been debunked for years, but folks just keep perpetuating the idea and blaming their brake pulsing on the giant metal disc actually getting thrown out of plane instead of the more obvious idea that there is just a bunch of junk stuck to your rotors.

 

Want to have your best chance at never having rotor problems again, for as long as possible? Buy 4 new rotors, all new pads - replace them all at the same time. Clean your hub to rotor mounting surfaces perfectly (all rust and corrosion gone). Put everything else back together as clean as can be (I personally don't care for any type of lube or anti-seize, except for on the slide pins). Be sure to torque your lug nuts to spec every single time you pull your wheels off over the life of the brakes - that's the most critical part, in my opinion.

I've tried all brands of pads and rotors, slotted/drilled/cryo/etc. on many different cars and trucks over the years. Best combo to date on my '16 tundra are Raybestos high carbon rotors with Akebono pads. I tow infrequently, but heavy, and I'm generally hard on brakes overall. These have held up great, pedal feel is good, minimal dust.

Sit back and enjoy your brakes for a long time.

 

I really find our tundra OEM brakes sucks and lack power , and that the rears are the worst !

Typicly , over the years , i wear out 2 sets of rears pads for one Front sets , and can wear 2 sets of pads for one set of rotors . i did wear about 4 sets of pads for the front , 2 rotors , and double for the rear in 120 000 Kilometer ( about 75 k miles ) , also i'm a Professional mecanic and being very OCD about Brakes maintenances , lubrication and clean up , so i can get a set of brake use to there service limits nice and even before threw them away , and was never happy with how little OEM pads perfom and durability Overall , tho they where very cheap replacement !

i live in the rust belt with a lots of salts, tow often and do lots of gravel road, so brake maintenances is 2 -3 time a years...

When i have decide to ditch the OEM crap , i give a try to the Wagner SD ( severe duty ) pads and rotor and MAN i Love those !!!

These have TONS of braking power and so much more pedal feel / firmness and confidance / fade resistance while towing , and so far in about 20K kilometers , they wear out even , are quiet , very minimal rust and very low dust !

Highly recommand the wagner SD combos for those who use they're truck as a truck , also they are not that much more expensive, and are built to high standard/high performance and durability for Commercial HD fleet, Police and Fire dep and Paramedic vehicules



Very very very please with those so far !

 

I bought these for replacement haven't installed them yet though.

 

Alcon big brake kit 6 piston front 4 piston rears and fit in a 17” wheel.. done and done

 

All anyone here needs is stock rotors with good pads. There may be two or three members here running these trucks hard enough to justify the fancy drilled and slotted stuff. It may make you feel better but it’s not doing anything. A full solid surface rotor with a good quality pad is going to give you the max braking possible.

 

Not a bad way to spend $6k.

 

Worth every penny.

 

One of the two to three who actually use their truck hard enough to justify it.

 

So I spent a fair amount of time trying to figure this out today. I have 4mm left on my front inners and 2mm on my outers.

I did a fair amount of reading and EBC seems to be the clear favorite and yellow pads get great reviews. But I have since learned from @reywcms green pads would of been the smarter choice.

As for OEM or similar brands, they are out of stock everywhere I look. My stock fronts lasted 45k miles, maybe that's a poor reflection of my driving. Most seem to get much more out of them. Rears are at 8mm and I'm replacing earlier than necessary.

I will run the EBC front and rears and they cost me 739.00.

I'm interested in learning more about better solutions if others have insights.

 

If you can tolerate a little extra dust, DFC Ultimate Duty are good pads. Not badly priced at Rockauto. I am using them now, and find them to be an improvement with regards to brake feel and stopping.

OE pads seem to be in stock at Toyota dealers, 04465-02440 and 04466-02340. The Advics aftermarket pads are available and in stock at Rockauto.

 

I’d say for the average Joe, just go find a great deal on OE rotors and pads, break them in with the proper bedding procedure and you’re golden.

 

Have switched a few vehicles now to Bendix Fleet MetLok pads and Bendix SDR (severe duty) rotors and have been satisfied with them for the price. No complaints and seem to perform better than OEM, but part of that is that the pads are semi-metallic and OEMs have been ceramic.

 

i Hear ya ! We use those on rally cars and they are just out of this world ! They are on my wish list haha !

 

I used to have a 21 4runner nightshade and I ran the Wagner OEX pads on it and I loved them wondering if anyone has tried them out on there truck I saw one post where someone said they are running the Wagner HD pads and rotors but I dont tow super often probably once a month with the boat to the ramp that 15 min down the road

 

im running power slot rotors and green stuff pads, it vibrates a lot when braking so going back to OEM.