Cant believe this... suspension

Yea, as long as the front isnt too stiff to get articulated. Looks good. Doors work easy while crossed up? If not, inspect body mounts.

 

Just tried, everything was good! Thanks for that, good tip

 

Ground to fender not sure I didn't measure at the spot I was at and my driveway is way off, I'll have to check some other time

I'll wait and see how it settles before deciding on bringing it down one or not, I do have the diff drop so CV angles aren't bad, see pic

 

FYI 1/8" spacer = approx 1/4" as it's almost a 2:1 ratio when correcting lean.

A 1/4" spacer will get you about 1/2".

 

Good to know! Had a taco before but never actually did the spacer

 

That shock bolt to lower control arm is on backwards. Nut should be facing forward. I did the same thing when replacing lower control arms and found the bolt extended a bit too close for comfort to the cv axel boots. Easy fix and makes torquing a bit easier too.

 

Well alignment finally got done today, I thought camber was way off the way I set it but it wasn't too bad.

This was done by a dedicated 4x4 shop with great reviews. I asked about caster still being in red , but they said it's normal due to SPC uppers being clocked at D , and it giving a +2 caster . I'm not an expert so I'm guessing that's fine?

They also work with SPC uppers many times a week , again being a dedicated 4x4 shop

Thoughts?

 

I think @assassin10000 would tell you you want the maximum caster you want while keeping camber and toe in check.

 

Interesting, wonder what setting he had his SPC on

 

Your alignment specs are great! The caster is red because it's higher than the Toyota specs, but that's a good thing for lifted.

 

perfect thank you! gives me some confidence haha

 

Looks good.

Close to what @alb1k runs with his solo lowers (approx 4.5 caster iirc).

OEM arms I typically recommend:
-.3 camber
2.6-2.8 caster
.10-.15 total toe

With extra caster arms, 3-5 degree caster is ok.

Drive a bit faster, -.5 camber.

 

perfect! I must have missed the 2.6-2.8 caster for OEM only part at first, shop definitely didnt want to go for those numbers. Im glad I went with them lol

 

Your numbers look good

Camber and Toe are important to prevent excessive tire wear. Castor is to keep you tracking straight. More Castor on the passenger side corrects for road crown.

Less Castor isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Wider Tires and greater offset wheels offset the effects of less Castor.

Also, too much Castor can affect handling, because as you turn, one side of the vehicle lifts and the other lowers, this effect increases with more Castor.

 

That's some great info, thank you! Sounds like I'm right where I'm supposed to be then, even the little difference in passenger to driver castor ( road crown correction)

 

I will say this, the lower coil over bolt is a pain in the ass to deal with. I just installed my new Bilstein’s and it wasn’t fun. I fought the passenger side then when I went to the driver side. I just dropped the lower ball joint out.

 

Yea I put in new lower control arms to so it was easy. More costly, but easy