Climate Control Fans / Airflow Weak?

Same issue here in my 23. When I reach back to feel the rear vents they blow much harder some how.

 

Just got mine back from its first dealer visit and round of software updates, they performed the reflash to address ‘clunk on startup’ and also ‘delayed throttle response’ and additionally I explained how the airflow from the front vents was weak with the fan speed set to high, the technician performed a servo recalibration and it really made a positive difference and seemed to have resolved this particular issue, hope this helps anyone with the same concern

 

Winter is coming, started using the HEAT mode and even with fan speed on high, and temp on High, it blows with less force than my farts. I did the Carista mod for the AC trick and it was blowing better, but now with heat mode it’s back to barely any flow. I have a 10k service coming up, should I mention it to them or just contact Toyota directly. This particular dealership has some mechanics with missing teeth. Chances of them screwing up something else in the truck is very high.

 

I’ll have to have mine done as well. 23 sr5 single climate control and on max air it’s weak. I wonder if all of these updates are done automatically when you bring it in for service or you have to ask for it.

 

I doubt they do anything “automatically” these days.

 

My 23 Limited TRD OR goes in on the 9th for lack of heating issues, only dropped to -14C and it took 10 minutes of idle and 15 minutes of driving to warm the interior. The only time it works good is on max defrost, can use it as a leaf blower. But any other setting the overall air flow drops off, on max floor most of the noise comes form the defrost, max dash i can hear air leaking/restriction behind the dash, split defrost/floor and hardly anything comes out the windshield vents or even front foot wells-most of the air comes out under the front seats to the rear. This will be one of 20 items the truck is booked in for: creaking drivers seat, cold rattle in the A-pillar, headliner rattles at all temps, lots of black smoke on start up, throttle hesitation, extremely low idle RPMs that will shake the truck at lights, transmission starting in 3-4 gear from a stop, 10th gear is MIA, rear fender flares starting to gap from the box, glove box rattle, all four side windows rattle, cover for cabin air filter rattles, tray in glove box does not latch, telescoping stop in steering column broke-steering wheel will telescope so far the bright light will come on, drivers heated mirror stopped heating, two trim pieces interior/exterior were not installed correctly.

 

Sounds like you are describing a 25 year old vehicle. Black Smoke???? geez…

makes me happy about getting a 23 SR model then. Cause besides the AC blower and that low RPM shake (probably related to engine switching from port injection to direct injection) problem I honestly didn’t have any issues.

 

OK! I seriously thought yall were crazy about if you set it to LO the airflow actually blows like any other normal vehicle and if you increase the temp it gets less and less. So I tried that this morning and JFC it’s 100% true. That is the WORST design imaginable. I haven’t had to use LO yet and sure as shit from LO to 60 it gets cut in half and then less and less the more you increase.

The airflow is something I noticed from the minute I drove it off the lot and it wasnt a major deal but my god it is now knowing that when it’s set on LO it cranks out like it should.

This is a 23 SR5 with single climate control with a build date of 08/23.

 

Your eyes have been opened and now you know the truth

 

So had the Tundra in for a laundry list of items and the shop manager confirmed the reduced airflow when using anything other than max defrost. At first they were going to order a new blower motor but we checked two other Tundra's on the lot and they did the same thing. The biggest issues is the very low airflow on split defrost/floor, this is the go to setting for cold weather. Keeps the glass frost/fog free and the toes warm, at just -14C it was failing to do either. The shop put in a TAS case on the heater, fuel gauge resetting, black smoke on start up and the hesitation/rough idle. Hopefully something comes out of it because no way would this truck be good for a cold weather road trip.

 

Any updates on any of this? My 2024 Platinum blows very weak when set to heat and upper vents. I would rather it give me full fan speed like requested than just a hint of air.

 

After

After several attempts to get the heat to work properly I took the green turdra to the Ford dealership and traded it in on a F150 Raptor. No more heater issues, no issues with the 4wd(yet), no issues with the transmission going into top gears, no windshield rattles, no headliner rattles(yet), and the mpgs is just slightly worse. However centre console rattles are present in the Ford and my tailgate appliqué is starting to fall off after some -35c weather in Jan/feb.

 

Last week got a TRD sport with 10k. Sitting at work in the lot I noticed the lack of air moving also. Following this.

 

I had 3-4 Toyota loaners over the past few weeks. All were 2023’s or 24’s. Highlander hybrid, bz4x, and Rav 4 XLE. Tested them all out with heat set to up top only. Max fan. Highest heat setting. They all about blew and melted my face off. I know this is only 3 other models but so far only the tundra stops you from blowing max heat out of the upper vents. Makes no sense that they did this to the tundra and not all those others.

 

I still really think this is a design flaw, where the device that mixes warm/cold air physically blocks the vents when it is in any position other than LO. You can hear the increased turbulence suggesting to me something is actually blocking the airflow.

 

It definitely does sound like a jet engine taking off behind the dash, but barely any air trickles out of the top vents. One would think this could be easily fixed with a software update. However, the 3rd gen has been out for a few years now with no update so I wont hold my breath.

 

A software update won't help if the physical design doesn't allow for free flowing air when the heater blend door is in any position except LO. The fact that there hasn't been a software fix is part of what makes me think it's a hardware design flaw.

 

Hmm I really hope that is not the case, but you think they would have fixed it already if it were software related… Someone needs to tear their dash open and take a peek! Ha

 

following this, its been driving me nuts for a while

 

Living north of Chicago, I wish it got warm as quickly as it gets cold. It's crazy that it's strong in the back but not the front. Toyota needs to produce 1 minute YouTube videos explaining some of the crap they do instead of waiting for it to trickle through the user community and eventually be something you can only learn from the community.