Compustar dc3 remote start problems

The T harness comes with JS10 already plugged in and says at the top that JS8 is not used in this application. I feel that I’m doing something wrong when programming in the truck.

 

I wonder if that’s an error on the schematics... Where it says at the very top that JS8 isn’t used in this application should be JS10.

I’m assuming that the NC next to JS10 in the schematic means no connection.

Up until this point I’ve just been assuming that the CAN L and CAN H connections were made in the harness and hard wiring wasn’t required.

 

It says not to connect JS8 BUT YOU NEED TO. Then splice into CAN L and CAN H. Did you also splice into RDA?

 

Yes, RDA connection is done

 

The diagram you posted is the same as 2020. Just remember to use JS8. That connects to CAN L and CAN H. Don't forget the orange/white wire. that goes to RDA. You should be good after that. Don't worry about autolight connection.

 

then your problem is JS8 not wired

 

Wire JS8 to CAN L and CAN H and you should be good. You might have to reset the module and try again when all wires are connected.

 

@2020 dc last thing... what about the horn output connection? I am guessing no at this point haha

Thank you man. Seriously.

I will try and get some pics to write this up and put it out there on the ol Inter webs... maybe no one else will have to struggle with this particular RS. I think this remote start has some great features, but damn the support is terrible.

 

Don't worry about the horn. Unless you know which wire is for the horn (I can't find it unless I remove the airbag). Yea, you are right...there is no tech support from Compustar unless you are a dealer or pro installer. I have to figure everything out the hard way. Did it work for you?

 

One more thing...don't enable the alarm features in your module. It will conflict with the stock immobilizer and cause the remote start not to work.

 

Ok. Yea I randomly found the horn wire in another thread that had nothing to do with this, and putting 2 and 2 together from that and Compustar install guides... go figure haha

no man it’s 30 degrees here and I don’t have a garage big enough for the truck... have to wait til afternoon to get the computer back. I honestly just can’t believe nobody has written this one up. From my research, which was pretty extensive, it seems like a very good module. But obviously, what do I know hahaha

 

You are right that the module is pretty good with lots of cool features that can be enable. But without Compustar tech support, making things work can be very hard. Like you, it took me a lot of time to figure some of this stuff out. Instead of using the horn, I installed a siren. Let us know where you find the wire for the horn.

 

I definitely will once I get the computer back and have access to some of the photos I used to find it

 

Ok here is the horn output (-) info that I found. Take it for what it’s worth.. This should apply to 2018+ Tundra H-Key only










^White/Black-black dot from the TL5 T Harness for reference


press in and down a little here and pull the connector out


looks like this...^


Note the photo above the connector is upside down from the way it is connected. It’s the best angle I could get of the wire that close.

hope this helps!

 

I have given up personally..

I can’t seem to get the CM-DC3 to program... so I just scheduled an appointment at Best Buy... at least they can get tech support... $110 cut my losses

I’ve dedicated waaay more time than I have to give already and I’m done stressing out over it.

my advice... pay a little more for the 12VoltSolutions RS There’s a ton of videos on it and it’s mostly if not all plug and play.

there’s also some decent videos on the Start X RS and it may be mostly plug and play as well.

 

Sorry to hear that. Certainly it is not worth getting stress out over it. Dumb question from me...Did you flash the module for your make and year? Also thanks for sharing the horn wire info. Let me know how the RS turn out with Best Buy.

 

Yea, I flash it, then when I go to program it, nothing goes as it’s supposed to. Even when I try to reset the module without flashing, I don’t get the right sequence of flashing lights. It’s possible that I bought a defective module I guess.




^I don’t get this sequence of lights in either of the above photos


^Or this sequence when trying to reset without re-flashing.

what I really want to know, and can’t find, is what needs to be plugged in, and in what order when programming the module. I flash it without anything plugged in, and then when programming, plug in M1(big connector from ignition switch) and M4 (20 pin connector that runs to OBDII and Body ECU)

 

Silverbullet77, this video will show you how to reset the module and how to program the module to the car. Hope this helps. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGcDbix8tGE

 

Nice, now I have to try it again haha. What about the M1 plug. The big one coming off of ignition?

 

To reset module...unplug all connectors from module...press and hold program button....connect M1 black 8-pin connector and then M4 black 20 pin connector...wait for the 2 red leds to flash....release program button

 

For the big M1 connector, I was referencing the video. He never plugged one in. So I was wondering if I should leave that one unplugged or plug it in for programming... advice?

 

@2020 dc !!!!

man I could give you a big ol fat kiss on the lips!

dude it worked!!

thanks so so much for your time and encouragement brother. Send me your Venmo and I’ll pay you Best Buy’s fee!!

 

SilverBullet77, I am so happy that I can help you out. Awesome that you got it to work!

 

I overlooked that video so many times because I figured it would be specific to Holden vehicles.

the answer to the above question I plugged everything in and then initiated the programming sequence. Worked like a charm.

thanks again for your help, it really is much appreciated!

 

Couple of things I’ve noticed so far.

The aftermarket RF kit I used was the Compustar Slice. $100 eBay. 2 way confirmation 4000 ft range. You get the horn when locking from it as well as the normal dainty little Toyota chirp. When using oem fob still just Toyota chirp no horn. I started truck from about 1000-1500 feet from 8th floor of hospital window to line of site top floor parking garage. Seems to function great.

The auto lights connection that I made (cut and spliced 2 ways per diagram) auto lights do NOT work after getting in truck and entering takeover mode. I’m gonna reconnect the original wire and See what happens... as far as I can tell, I gained the daytime running lights during the RS engine start process, but lost the auto light feature. I would much rather have the auto light feature personally. And I believe the parking lights will still be engaged for the remote starting process. Thoughts?

 

SilverBullet77, I did not bother connecting the autolight but you can go back to the option menu to change the module to turn off or on the parking light during remote start. There are bunch of other options as well such as silencing the horn, the duration of remote start and idle mode.

 

DC

I’ll definitely give this a try. Everything works during the Remote start process. But when I get to the truck and put key in ignition and step on brake. Auto light function on the steering column switch is gone.

it’s been too cold to get out there and mess with it, but updating the options seems like a good place to start.

 

Hey I’ve been looking through this feed and tried everything you all have mentioned. I’ve gone back and checked my harness and every single wire. Flashed it properly. When I start the program process I can never seem to get the initial red lights. Not sure what I’m missing. I cannot for the life of me find any videos for the wiring process with or without the harness.