Crackhead resurrection

Probably when they booger welded pipes in place of the cats. I'm talking big ole honkin boogers too. The only way you could make a weld that shitty is if you were using a stick welder that wasn't set up right.

Downright Shrek loogie

 

Pulled the throttle body back off to put on @w666's bypass hose he linked on in place of my silicone.




Was puzzled by the lack of fluid as the lines were suspiciously dry. Remembered the mini-t-stat that this line goes to, and that it appears to open from the by pass tube allowing flow through the TB, and down to the oil cooler? Not 100% sure on direction of flow. Might open, and then dump into the water inlet, but that doesn't seem to make much sense as the water inlet would be the "cool" side of the loop.

Had to trim the new hose up some to get a proper fit, and it was tricky as hell getting them little hose clamps on. Jiu-jitsu moves busted out from the grease grabbers.

 

@rock climber's care package came in today. That oil cooler still smells like used oil! A good sign!



If I have time tonight, I'll figure out how to remove the pins from these because if I mess these up, it doesn't matter. If I mess up mine on the truck, that might matter.

My brand new connectors arrived on the same truck these did.

 

When you buy the clamps new they come with a clip installed that holds the clamp fully open. you just position where you want it one hand, and pull the clips off with a need nose using the other hand. I recycled the clips to use next time.

 

Not exactly sure what you mean by clamps. You mean the white detent thing on the connector?

 

Did a biopsy of the old connectors to improve my understanding of how to remove the wires from my engine clips.

Accelerator position sensor wires below. I messed up the one pointed out by the red arrow while I was figuring it out. The one with the blue arrow is only slightly messed up.



Clip retaining pins on the bottom of the connector.


The retaining pins fit into the holes on the pinned connector seen below.


How it clips in can be seen better on another connector because I didn't totally destroy that one taking it apart. That little finger falls down into the hole on the pin, and retains it.

 

After my engine mount inspection, I've decided to order the rubber bushings for the engine mounts, and the trans mount. Saving on all the metal pieces.

I think I will do the same with most of the body mounts. Reuse the hardware, but supply new mounts.

The shopping cart so far:

• 4WD trans mount: 12371-0F010 $103.29
• Engine mount (Front L/R) 12361-0F010 $67.29
• Bed bolts (X8) 64189-0C011 $79.84
• Body Mount Cushion (Front, Upper) (X2) 52201-0C010 $51.14
• Body Mount Cushion Sleeve (Rear) (X2) 52248-34010 $18.06
• Body Mount Cushion (Lower) (X2)
  52202-0C010 $38.44
• Body Mount Cushion (X2) 52203-0C010 $97.80
• Rear Mount (X2) 52205-0C010 $119.40
• Air filter 17801-07010 $19.02

Total for this order without shipping: $594.28

Anything else I should add before I place my order?

 

Order is placed unchanged.

 

Sliders, eventually.....??
Rocky Road Outfitters sliders | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

Yes please!

 

It seems the decision has been made for me...

 

Resumed work on this lovely Sunday night.

Removed wires from the accelerator position sensor clip, and then self-vulc'd the wires. Hopefully this won't make it like an oven for the wires, but I doubt it.



Installed the new connector with liberal amounts of dielectric grease.




I discovered that I'd ordered the wrong connector for the throttle body... I need the circled connector, but I have the pointed out connector. Will peruse the EWD again for clarification.


And got the new temp sensor connector installed. Two out of three ain't bad.


More to come soon.

 

Verified torque on the harmonic balancer. My torque wrench only goes to 150FTlbs so I checked it there. Gates Serpentine belt on too to make it easier to put the fan on. @rock climber's care package oil cooler installed with toy filter.


Fan back on along with radiator. Couldn't figure out a good way to bypass the warmer at the bottom of the rad so I just hooked everything back up the way it was. Will think on this more. Best solution I see is remove the metal pipes from next to the engine. Not sure if those are hard all the way to the transmission, or if they are like the hard lines on the frame rail that you can see with hoses going between.


Upper fan shroud back on.


Upper, and lower Rad hoses on, and filled with distilled water. Glug Glug Glug. Thirsty! Intake back on too.


The tent of pain overview for posterity.


Also, cracked both driver and passenger block drains. Not easy to get to with 4WD bits in the way! Great flow on the drivers side, and "ok" flow on the passengers side. Just glad something came out of it. Added hoses from the drain nipple so I can collect with a gallon jug like I did on the V6. One on each side.


Video coming soon-ish. Depends on how much I can trim to make uploading quicker unless you all prefer un-edited.

 

Don't look....

Spoiler

Nope. don't look....

Spoiler

T2....Throttle Position Sensor (2UZ−FE) 90980−11037

 

Way to go @Tundra2! Here's to hoping all your hard work and efforts (and @TundraGirl2) pay off smoothly. Or at least relatively.

 

Nice work!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Did the clip I sent work for that? We triple checked the picture because there are apparently two different throttle body options.

 

I unfortunately don’t get to help as much as I would like to. I’m working full time for the next few weeks due to fall break.

 

Make that money and take him out for a victory steak. But you gotta get pics of him dressed to the 9’s.

 

lipstick on a pig

 

I didnt get to see the vid, but if it runs, he earned it. Give it 10k before worrying if everything was right.

 

https://youtu.be/kewzfe0yODo

 

The title finally showed up among other items. Damn, the KDOT is slow as fuck. I was starting to get worried....

 

That’s alot of dielectric grease !

 

So any ideas why the oil pressure was so high, or why the water got so hot so quick?

 

I didn't watch the video yet but first thing: what is the true oil pressure reading as taken with a mechanical gauge, do you know?

 

No idea as I don't have a mechanical guage. I have no reason to believe the guage is wrong because when I got the truck the oil pressure was never that high, and the valve covers didn't leak like they did in the video.

I have every reason to believe that it's correct.

 

Trying to make it thru the video.

WHERE THE FUCK DID MY BOX GO, FUCK!?

 

I was tired lol