GEN 3 (2022+) Wheels and Tires Photo thread

my poke 20x9 +1
Wanted to add I did have to move the front rear wheel well liner back barely rubbed there with the +20 I prob would have cleared but I was ok with that due to want poke and easy fix !

 

hope all this helps

 

For sure man. I had the Terra Grappler G2s on my Ram 1500. Great tire, but once I saw how much more aggressive the Recon was I knew I had to have them. Spend the extra money for the Nittos and you won't have any regrets long-term

 

luv lol

 

ST72 Yes sir that what I did.
Nitto Recon Grappler 315/60/20
57 lbs lol luv them!!!!

 

@Jinkx well the day finally arrived. Thanks to your pics I just had to have them.

 

Awesome colors

 

Thanks!

 

Tundra 1794 BEAUTIFUL BROTHER.
Luv the Bronze with the brown,
I don’t have to even ask I know you’re in luv lol.
And the caliper covers to top it off.
Hell yes AWESOMENESS

ummmmmm DETAILS
Rim size
Off Set
Tires
How dare you leave us hanging lol
Your body lines pop in that color.
Looks like your lifted??
Again luv it brother good job!
Not to give you more ideas
I just did the RC 4 inch lift
Luv it. The ride is factory like.

 

couple pics in case u need more ideas lol

 

Thanks!
Details:
Fuel Rebel 6 20x9 +20
Nitto Recon Grapplers LT295/60R20
RC 1.75” front and 1” spacer in the rear

I saw your Ready Lift 3/1 for sale. If I wasn’t already lifted I’d get it from you.

 

You have the perfect setup if don’t want any rubbing and don’t want to have to modify anything in the wheel well. They should make this a standard post for others wondering what size
Anything in 18/20 Rim diameter
Width 9 inches
Tires 295/70/18 or 295/60/20
+18 to +20 Offset
Both come out to about 34.5 diameter
Tread 9.5 to 9.0
Section width 12.2 to 11.8

neither size will rub and both will give you about 1/4 inch of poke of tread not figuring in the sidewall.

A +1 Rim will give you about 1.5 inch of poke or to make it simple it will expose the first tread block on most tires

This should answer most questions about wheel and tire sizes. Yes you can fit more tire. But neither one of these requires any mods to wheel well liners or crash bracket removal

 

Ok, in an effort to give back. I am half way through about 4 days of looking at data, pictures, and products.
2023 Limited 4x4 Longbed Hybrid
Stock were 265/60-20 with 20x9+60mm offset

Now Weld Racing Roll Formed 20x9 with +20mm offset
1. Buy a light wheel. The Fuel and all those cast wheels are insanely heavy (pick one up)
2. Toyo Open Country R/T 35x12.50
3. First pictures with them absolutely stock 4X4 suspension
A. They do not hit anywhere (tire shop amazed) but they are really too close to run full time like this
B. The truck is geared a bit different and yes, manageable but noticeable (of course)
4. Next week I am installing the Rough Country kit that is 3.5 Lift complete with rear struts, Upper Control Arms (UCAs), 1” diff drop, skid plates

I’ll add more pictures but here are enough for you to consider for your build. I’ll lastly say when you lift buy 3.5” in the front, the front A-Arm swings down (to lift truck) and the front wheel will rock in a little bit. If you use a +20mm offset on a 9” wheel and 12.5 width tire, it is further from the truck (sits more outboard than stock) so it will swing back to around original inside tire position. If you are considering 3.5” or 3” slugs, they may do more to geometry in the front end than just clearance issues. I hope this helps.

 

Looking to figure out replacement wheels and tires for my 2023 Tundra SR. Thinking 285/65/20 on 20x9 aftermarket wheels with 0 offset. Hoping for little to no poke. Any suggestions or ideas?
These are the wheels I am considering.

https://www.extremeterrain.com/fact...style-satin-black-wheel-20x9-f2462090770.html

 

At 0 offset, you can expect several inches of poke.

Your OE wheels are +60 offset and narrower so nearly 3” different than the ones in the link.

Ideal offset for no poke would be around +30.

If you wind up with a lot of poke, you can add some wider fender flares to even things out.

 

Dan, your new tires are 20mm wider than stock, so that means 10mm extra “poke” (half the 20 on side), but thats with a +60mm backspace on your stock wheels, so essentially +50 (60- 10) gets you to where you are, and then just measure your stock tire and how far further out you want the tire to be to your satisfaction. I agree that it’s about and inch to the edge of the fender to be flush, which is 25.4mm, which translates to 25mm (50-25 = +25mm) to bring your 20x9s with a 285 tire to edge of the fender. Keep in mind that as you raise the truck, the front wheels will swing in toward the truck, so stock height PBNB is spot on, but if you level the truck an inch or two up front, +20mm.

If you use those +0 20x9 wheels and 285mm tires, and don’t level the front, I’m gonna guess it’s 1.25 too wide if you don’t level the front, and just under 1” too wide if you do level the front.

 

Here’s mine now before I raise 3.5” up front. Rear will stay the same because it’ll drop the axle straight down (no A-arms).

 

Rear

 

Here are all three comparisons. You can go measure fro the side wall on currrent tire to how far you want it our there. All the math is done.

 

Here’s mine for those interested.

 

BoatRacer
Sure you may have a lighter wheel (can’t find weight on Weld)
Totally understand trying to keep weight down
but your tire choice is 70 lbs!
Not saying anything bad but you’re much better off going a lighter tire then a lighter wheel because the tire is the farthest from the hub.
Your rim choice is the perfect size for about a 1/4 of tread poke.

My fuel wheels Rebel 6s
were 39 lbs
My tires 315/60/20 SL Recon Grapplers
We’re 57lbs
Total 96 lbs

YOUR Tires are 70lbs
Let’s say your rims are 30 (can’t find lbs on welds) that puts u at
100 lbs.

My tire is a little wider then yours and taller but not by much. Just a diff approach. Not easy finding a true light weight wheel that doesn’t cost a fortune!!!! Hence why most truck people don’t buy them as it’s already a huge expense.
Nice truck brother we have similar color choices

 

luv the white
BoatRacer
I’m selling a 3/1 ReadyLift kit with control rms and rear shocks if your still looking 3gen Sales sec!

 

Welp, I got a screw in the rear tire edge of my (OEM) Falken Wildpeaks. Went and plugged that but I don't want to drive on it for long. Although the OEM Wildpeaks handled well, and even got me though some snow, I did want to upgrade them eventually.
Also, I think my TRD Pro suffers from the premature tire wear the factory alignment gave us. It feels even at 6200 miles, the tire outer edge is wearing heavily.

I went and bought a new set of Nitto Recon Grapplers in 295/70R18 116S. Most of my off-road excursions are trails and some hills at best, so I decided to go with the lighter version of the tire. I'll post picks as soon as the job is done.

 

Very smart move probably the best all around tire size! Especially for stock wheels. Run them at 35 psi that’s it!
That’s straight from Nitto
I run my 315s SL at 35 so far perfect wear and I chalk tested them even contact

Sounds like your old tires may have been under inflated for outer edge wear or you’re driving hard into corners lol.


Def send pics and don’t panic when u see them they will clear. They look HUGE off the truck but these Tundras just eat that size up… Be prepared to smile !!!!
One Neg is you will lose about 2 mpg but to me it was soooooo worth it when u see them. You’re going to wonder why Toyota ever put 265s on stock. Well prob for fuel mileage lol.
BUT when I put on my 315/60/20 SL and took off my 305/70/18s Load Range E I actually went from 16.4mpg to 18.8 seriously.
Two reasons one the lbs savings and To the SL tires are a harder tread so less rolling resistance then a Load range E.

For those who don’t know in the Nitto Recon Grapplers the SL is the exact same tire but it’s 6 ply instead of 10/12 ply in like a E load rating.
Very very few of us need a E or F load range tire. In fact only max haulers or max towers or serious off road need anything that heavy again that’s straight from Nitto. So why do they make them Supply and Demand. Good luck can’t wait to see and hear you when there in brother!

 

DAN To make it simple for u a 0 or +1 will give u about 1 to 1.5 inch of poke or more simple the first tread block on your tires on average…A + 15 to +20 offset will give you about a 1/4 inch of poke…
BoatRacer gave great info but it can become overwhelming lol trust me there’s a reason I know this. Spent 2 months is studying rims and tires before choosing. First pic +1 poke second +20 poke.

 

I’ll add this. After you get your lift right, bolt on spacers are super safe and cheap (used by ford and Dodge on all front of 4x4 duallys that are 3” thick). It’s a great way to move them out, or back in a bit. I am contemplating color matched 2” flares and may use a set. My taste is not to shoot the side of the truck in tire shine or mudd (but it looks good on somebody else’s truck LOL)

 

Be careful with spacers though. If the dealership sees them and let’s say you have a worn out wheel bearing, front 4x4 has issues or brakes show premature wear it can void your warranty…

My experience has been dealerships don’t care to much about lifts as long as it’s not extreme (over 4 inch) …Many sell them on new trucks as an add on.
I asked my dealership before I put my 4 inch on and they said no problem especially because I still use the stock springs and struts in the front and Rear springs in the rear. So my angles like on the upper control arms is not changing. It’s in the factory location basically because my spinndle was changed not my upper control arm.
I did not need an alignment post RC 4 inch lift it was in specs so it must be keeping everything close to the factory specs!

Im Not a fan of pushing the wheel out with spacers but that’s just me I know it’s done all the time!
Do your best to get the right wheel and avoid spacers unless you’re stuck on getting a wheel pushed out and you don’t want to change wheels.
Jyst diff of oppinion and that’s why this site is great we can all learn something!

 

Since you guys are discussing poke, maybe you can help me. I’m considering the SCS Blaze 10 in 17 x 8.5 with -10. Is my biggest disadvantage too much poke with this set up? This is going on my sr5 trd sport after I do the Cornfed 3/1 kit.

 

Vossen HF6-4 9.5 +30 (35 lbs) with lightweight 275/65R20 RIV Scorpion AT tires (48 lbs).
Sitting at -0.3 camber all around... no poke!
Fast and smooth at 83 lbs per corner.

 

Just imagine 3-4” poke on each side