General Supercharger Thread

im running digital. AEM X series gauge

 

i feel like a noob with all my queries. so i changed the vacuum lines from the manifold to the FPR, and also new T-fitting and lines to the gauge sensor. still doing the same.

did a mild gradual pull to check, i noticed that boost doesnt really drop abruptly, but rather slowly before the truck shifts. then boost climbs back to where it was after it shifts. also, boost slowly drops when im getting close to my 110ish mph speed limit (yup i didnt take off the governor)
so it might be my tuning or some sort of torque management? i recently just got my boost gauge to work so im just now noticing my numbers.
I dont feel loss of power. and if it is just my tuning then disregard all my stupid questions lol. never had a blown truck before. had a modded turbo diesel before my tundra.
appreciate all y'alls patience and inputs!

i let off the throttle a bit early for braking room.

 

I'd say that's the least of your worries because it's running pretty lean, most target an AFR of 10-11, certainly not high 12s or 13. Was that actually floored too? I feel like my truck would've gone to a lower gear.

 

not floored. probably 3/4 throttle max. lean you say? okay i gotta talk to my tuner for sure!

 

Your boost is more or less proportionate to your throttle position, I would do a full throttle run and use that as your reference point for if the boost is tapering off (maybe you said it was still doing it at WOT and I missed it). Boost isn't really tune sensitive, the blower spins so many revolutions for each engine revolution so that's a fixed amount of air the blower is always moving (ignoring any efficiency changes with rpm, which do exist but should be minor). Thats why you have instant boost at idle if you floor it since essentially it's always making the same amount of boost, the bypass valve is what "disabled" or reduced the amount of boost. And the bypass valve is vacuum operated, ie essentially throttle position controlled. If the bypass valve closes fully and stops any bypass, then you have full boost and the same boost at any rpm (give or take in theory).

That's why I would use full throttle as a reference since the throttle position is electronically controlled so may move around a bit and thus the amount of boost, if it's floored then it should make max boost since the throttle will just be fully open (assuming traction control isn't kicking in).

In regards to your tune, the governor being removed is extremely easy so the tuner should do that. AFR targets are mid 10s as I said, this is because the tundra piston rings have a small gap and if the piston gets hot and the rings expand it's been known for the rings to seize and destroy the engine, and the easy fix is you just run it really rich to keep the engine cooler.

 

jotting down all this info... thanks a lot man. im learning a lot of new shit everyday. hoping someday i can pass these knowledge to someone else too. thank you!

 

How’d you get the gauges to sit in the craven cluster?

 

the gauges are actually sorta floating. the hardware to secure the gauge pod isnt even tightened all the way down, i can see like 3 or 4 thread of the allen bolt. had to do it this way for clearance.

so the AEM gauges actually fit without modification. you just have to insert them inside the pod at an angle and then slowly push the gauge in.
and the bezel of the gauge touches the mount snug and tight.
so these floating gauges are secure inside the pod through friction from the bezel touching the mount. even though the allen bolts arent tight, its very secure and doesnt move.
and the bezel touching the mount tight secures it and prevent its from moving up and down. but you can still move it to your preferred position and it'll hold its position.

i can take a better pic or even a video tomorrow when the sun is out for more clarity.

 

Interesting, not sure that’ll hold for myself and how I offroad but I have a solution I’m going to try out.

 

Mine are pretty similarly mounted, that's why I suggested you ask for longer allens.

 

We need to update and add whipple info.

 

that was me who added you on IG btw.
and yea with the way you wheel your truck maybe eventually it'll loosen. but its pretty snug in there in my opinion.

 

haha yea i didnt ask for longer allens.

 

Give me Whipple info and pictures then

 

Whipple: 2.9 Twin Screw

Issues - TBD

Includes- 340LPH DW Fuel Pump, DW 650cc Injectors,Interchangeable Pulley, Stocky pulley size 3.625"

Belts -

"Stock" Gates Micro V Belt -120" K081196

"Gates HD - 120” K081196HD

Couplers -

Rebuild -

 

Alright I updated the first page with the Whipple information. Can someone give me a list of what is included with the Harrop? I just have "modular pulley". Is there a tune, or fuel pump, spark plugs, or anything beyond the base supercharger assembly included with any of the stages? I want to add information of what exactly is included or not included in each kit.

 

Ah should add the tuner is MPV Hp Tuner unit, plugs not included but recommended. 102mm inlet can also add links to their site https://whipplesuperchargers.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=502

 

Stage 1:
85mm Pulley
DW 340LPH Fuel Pump
8PK2990 Drive belt
They claim factory tune works, but in the manual states it has to be calibrated and tuned

Stage 2:
80mm Pulley
DW 340 LPH Fuel Pump
DW 650cc Injectors
8PK2990 Drive Belt
Tuning is a must.

Uses stock spark plugs for both stages.

 

Stage 3 has a 75mm pulley and they offer fuel rails as well. upgraded manifold and ports to support 16 injectors

 

I didn't even know stage 3 was a thing!

 

Great info! Found this site after one of my 200 cell metal cats imploded and blocked my exhaust. Just read the 302 pages yesterday. Lots of great info. Nice to see there is support for the Tundra. Dropped off the grid when it didn't seem to be going anywhere back in 2015...
Mike

 

oh yea they have a stage 3. but they dont have a kit for it. i feel like prospeed basically covers the parts needed to support a stage 3 so harrop didnt bother in US market. just my opinion haha

 

welcome back!! enjoy your stay

 

Re: intake air temp

so it’s damn hot in houston

Africa hot

but my IAT has held steady at ~28 degree delta

It has been that for some time, even when it’s cool out


I would have thought the delta would have increased as the ambient rose


How do the maggy folks account for this delta when it gets tuned? Or is it immaterial?

 

Gold foil for starters...and a larger heat exchanger from Frozenboost.com, Type 101....and bypassing the Throttlebody water "cooling/warmer" function

 

Facts

 

My truck runs fine regardless of the temperature so I do nothing

 

Toby, aka @snivilous has been helping me to fine tune the truck.

- I have IPT valve body, before the tune, 1-2 shift can be jarring, it would feel like a horse is kicking you from the back, it's great when the truck is loaded down or towing, but when empty and in city traffic, it's miserable, with Toby's tune, it is as smooth as it gets.
- There were some spots during driving on previous tune feels "flat", now it feels good all over.
- I've bought lot of stuff and services over the years, I always said Ken/Zuk @ Gearinstalls.com is perhaps the best service I've ever had, Toby is up there with Ken/Zuk, he took the time and asked me to extensively datalog and verify what works and what didn't.

just as a side note, I've measure acceleration at test facilities, the truck is now about 3150kg/6950lb with me in it, the last time I've measured anything the truck was about 200lbs lighter, and I'm getting exact acceleration time.

 

I feel like hard valve body shifts is super old school hotrod stuff that really isn't needed lol

 

your sig needs to be updated now with the whipple lol
and i may have missed it but your tranny is still stock?