General Supercharger Thread

So apparently my only options are stock behavior or to lock the tranny into a gear. That's no fun. Was hoping for a second map or something.

 

I don't think that the early ECUs have enough memory for an additional map. I think that's only possible with '16 (maybe '14) and newer. Gear Lock/Direct Shift seemed to be problematic on early ECUs too. That's what we have to work with, lol.

 

We were only using the gear lock for some 3rd gear WOT runs but it seemed to be working ok... Guess I'll just have him put it back to stock Tow/Haul behavior.

 

I don't have my tow haul do anything. The "normal" mode is perfect already, tow haul isn't improving on it any personally I don't see any reason for a second map or shift points

 

To elaborate slightly now that I have a moment.
By additional map, I meant the possibility of an additional fuel map. Say one for towing, for dragging, for economy.
With VFT you can have a Gear Lock transmission feature, but you'd need to be in S-Mode with the Tow-Haul Mode on at the same time. VFT said that it would eventually only need to be in S-Mode in the future, I don't know if that ever came to fruition. I have a VFT tune with the initial form of Gear Lock, and it works, but the engine fueling portion of the tune is rubbish.
I don't know if the Direct Shift feature made it in any shape or form.

@ViktorG gave the Gear Lock (S-Mode/Tow-Haul) feature a go with HPTuners but found that HPT doesn't have access to the tables necessary to make it work proper. I'd have to dig back into our email thread to be certain, but if memory serves, in T-H Mode alone the transmission wouldn't upshift from whatever gear it was in at the time. For example, if in T-H and slowing from 6th to 4th, it would downshift but then as you accelerated it wouldn't upshift again as you gained speed. If you came to a complete stop and then took off from there, it wouldn't upshift from 1st. What I asked him to do instead was to program it the same as @snivilous's which I think is best summed up as the same as stock but with the torque converter set to lock as soon as possible. I don't recall if there were any other changes, maybe he can elaborate if that's not correct.

 

Picked up a set of nearly new 33x12.50s I’ll be running when my 17” RRW wheels come in. Figured I’d try going from my tires that currently are 33.3” to a 32.7” and see how it feels. These are shorter but wider. I’m going to have to make a decision on if I should regear when I do my LSD which leads to a question I have. Does regearing to 4.88/5.29s effect how much power you put down to the wheels on a dyno, or does it only change the power delivery in a way that’s not measurable on a Dyno?

I’ve also read that on turbocharged diesels for example, sometimes it’s worse to put smaller tires on for big power. The reason being the engine doesn’t work hard enough to spool the turbos and build boost and it shifts gears before peak boost is reached. I guess that issue is less applicable to a PD blower that instantly builds boost in relation to RPM?

 

@snivilous had a good write up about regearing:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/any...er-kit-from-harrop.85513/page-44#post-2603471

 

I was doing the calculations. 5.29s with 35s makes the effective gear ratio a 4.84. 4.88s with 33s makes the effective ratio a 4.74 which is pretty close. Stock 4.30s on 33s effective ratio is about a 4.18 I believe. Not sure if I’d ever really want to go to 35s like my old truck had again. 5.29s with 33s would probably be a bit extreme. I’m gonna need one of you fellas with similar power and a regear to line up against my stock gearing truck so we can see what’s truly quicker! I’m not sold on if a regear is worth it yet.

 

Not following your numbers:

 

Thanks. This clarifies where you got your numbers. So you are going from a 33.3 to a 32.7 (wider) and are asking if you should consider a regear?

I'm in the similar boat since I'm getting an LSD installed but stock gears leave me in the green band of my chart.

 

Yeah pretty much. I’m not displeased with my current power situation on my current size so it will be interesting to see if going a little smaller in diameter will improve the feel and totally negate wanting to regear. As long as I’m happy with how 33x12.50s look I may just save the money for other stuff and skip the regear if performance is good. I am pretty positive though that I’d only go to 5.29s if I ran 35s, 4.88s otherwise. It’s also worth considering possible negatives money aside of a regear. Lower gearing means weaker gears due to less tooth mesh, as well as the possibility of getting a noisy set of gears.

I’d like to know what has a bigger performance effect as far as lower the gearing vs shedding some rotating mass on the wheel/tire combo. I’ll technically be doing a little of both with my upcoming changes. I should lose about 6-7 lbs on each wheel/tire.

 

What % loss is that of your total?

 

Assuming you mean the % of the wheel/tire weight. It’s about 6%-7% less weight. Each corner is about 101 lbs currently.

 

Last week I saw and held Titanium lug nuts.?They we’re ordered from somewhere in Florida. The weight on those were unbelievably lite!!! BUT very expensive. This would be an FYI thingy!!!

 

And…. Here I am, wanting to go with 38s lol. 37s are looking small now

 

Are 12.5 wide rubbers the unspoken rule when adding a S/C or are my skinny 10.8s still ok?

 

My 10.8" stock tires are fine. 275/55R20

question...could the stock 20" rims hold a 295/50R20?

that would give me an ~inch more width

 

Bout a G, or more, for a set.

https://www.paragonperf.com/Raceseng-TNR-1-Titanium-Lug-Nuts--Spitfire_p_533.html

 

Initially read it as a lost of ft lbs...in my mind I was like "this guy is really serious about dialing in his gains".

I think there may be some benefit to a wider tire but given the limited availability of selection their may be little gained by doing so with an AT tire.

 

So I just tried to flash the latest file ProSpeed sent me. It failed to flash. And now my truck won't start. Awesome.


Any suggestions?

 

Can you flash the previous file you had?

 

Can't flash anything and can't even get my OBD tool to scan.

 

Sounds bricked. Does your platform have anything on ECU recovery on their website?

 

Just to understand what may have happened. Did you have a battery charger charging it while you were flashing, and turn off any lights and unneeded accessories? If the voltage got too low it’s possible it could have bricked it. I usually run my charger at 8 amps while flashing. Also, have you been unhooking the battery for 5 minutes after each new flash? That’s something you could try as well, just to see.

 

My truck is on a battery tender most of the time so I never really thought to hook it up to a charger and ProSpeed never mentioned to do any of that. I've been unhooking the battery before each new flash per ProSpeed. I've done a ton of flashes up until now with no issues. Not sure what changed this time. I made a post on the HP Tuners forum as well as reached out to ProSpeed... Hoping someone can save this thing.

 

Sorry man, hopefully it’s just something stupid that happened and you can get it figured out. Here is my flashing instructions from DAP that were fairly detailed just for future reference. Prospeed isn’t as used to dealing with customers who are doing the flashing themselves so they may not think to mention some of these things just yet. I think the voltage has to be above 11.7v or something like that. May be totally unrelated however. Let us know what you figure out.

 

Do they use the RTD Flasher program as well?

 

VCM editor is what is used to flash the files via a MPVI2. VCM editor is what is used to data log. Is RTD just another software?

 

They send me RTD Tune files that I must flash through the RTD Flasher. These file types wont open in VCM Editor.