General Supercharger Thread

I’ve posted this before but it cracks me up every-time. I seem to max at 10.1psi with my current setup.

I have a dyno nearby that apparently charges 150$ for a baseline run, gonna go see what the numbers are!

https://youtu.be/R2JvA97zO7g

 

I wish there was something like that around here

 

It's all fun until your fuel system is maxed and the rods say no more...and all that remains after the tow truck leaves.

 

Is it up by Seattle? I couldn't find one in Tacoma area that would fit the tundra.

 

Yeah these guys, been around a long time too: https://www.carbconn.com/

 

I can slit another 2.0" and send it over if you want! Or a special 1.9" to really test what rpm she'll handle

 

Oh man. I lived by them when I was in the Juanita/kingsgate area...

 

I think I'm good at 2.0. I'm lucky my rotors are a bit loose as any more psi I'd probably be in trouble...I'd be game to give it a go for the improved 2.0.
Edit***But I may be willing to give the 1.9 a try...see post 20943.

 

I fixed and added to the pulley size/flow chart that now includes all available pullies I’m aware of for all of the superchargers. I’ve also added the Whipple pullies, there may be more sizes I’m not aware of for the Whipple but I was having trouble finding a comprehensive list of pullies for the tundra supercharger specifically. Thanks to @snivilous for helping me clarify measuring differences on the pullies.

Essentially we determined the Magnuson 2650 is the oddball for pulley measuring (measures smaller) even compared to the Magnuson 1900. For the 2650, Magnuson for some reason measures diameter at the outermost dimension (the outside edge of the belt). All of the others measure diameter at the top of the ribs of the pulley where the inside of the belt rides. When naming a Mag 2650 pulley a 65mm for example, if measured the same way as the others it would really be a 60.2-60.4mm pulley at the top of the ribs. I had already configured the chart using a minus 4.6mm difference for the mag 2650 pulleys when Sniv said he measured 4.8 difference, it’s only a .2% difference so that’s how I left it. I listed the labeled size and then in parentheses listed the “true” size if you were to measure it like the others. It looks like Magnuson went for 6-7% more flow on the standard pulley for the 2650 vs the 1900 to offer the most flow on the standard pulley of all of the blowers. As it turns out, running the mag 76mm at sea level is really partying and I’m actually surprised the 340lph pump can keep up with that pulley.

If you want to confirm your pulleys with the chart, you can measure them to confirm diameter at the top of the ribs. The easiest way to do this without a calipers or anything special is to wrap a piece of masking tape around the top of the ribs and mark it. Roll it out and measure it, then divide by 3.14. I did this to confirm my 80mm Harrop pulley was in fact being named by the diameter at the top of the ribs and it was spot on. Let me know if I messed something up, or if you want a certain pulley added.

 

Having a CEL makes the factory remote start not working, and turning the CEL off in HP tuners essentially hides it but it still seems to be present enough to stop the remote start from being allowed to work. Anyone have any ideas how to bypass that or make the remote start work despite the CEL?

I found a similar post on another forum but no one ever replied to it (this guy was also running a Haltech in 2014 which is wild):

https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/remote-start-w-cel.253482/

 

You have 420 and 430? Haha space those narrowbands out.

 

I had that same issue until I had you turn off the emissions CEL, now my remote start works no problem.

 

Huh, maybe this guy is having a separate issue then since I turned off the emissions CEL and a cylinder trim CEL.

 

I would have to agree on another issue because it fixed mine having the CEL off.

 

I believe brx was turning abs off to get max torque back then or it removed speed limiter. I forget as usual...but I think diabling whatever mil should solve it. Maybe battery disconnect and discharge residual electrons?

 

Well that LB fell through. For giggles I was looking at some high mileage trucks, 200k miles plus but it reminds me of this meme I saw a while ago .

 

What are most people seeing max boost at? I drive like an absolute grandma and have never got into full boost on my truck but was playing with the boost gauge the other day and it shows my max PSI was 10.9. I've not once even floored the truck since putting the gauge in (I barely drive the truck)...

 

similar driving style.

I hit higher psi when I am at low-ish rpms and accelerate...think on-ramp.

once I get some rpm's, the boost levels.

I have been watching this since my PE is not hitting soon enough.

driving in S5 helps me manage all this.

 

I'll have to pay more attention moving forward. Once I figure out why there's a puddle of coolant under my truck currently

 

Because the pulley bottoms out on the main timing chain sprocket and can't go in any further lol

 

On the street I’m very mild on it. But I see is 10.3psi on the current setup

 

I’m hitting 12.3psi. Drive pretty aggressively but not usually in it for more than 5 seconds at a time.

 

Would I be wrong in thinking those of you using the PSB-1 are sharing your max boost that the gauge has ever seen, meaning it could have been a weird spike that is unrepresentative of the real max boost you’re seeing? WOT for me I basically see 8, and the occasional blip to 9. My old style AEM only reads whole numbers and doesn’t save max boost spikes. Point being, I’d probably say my max boost is 8.5-9, but I’d bet a psb1 would record a spike of 10+ from time to time but I wouldn’t realistically call that my max boost pressure.

 

Mines an AEM X-series gauge that reads .x if I’m watching I’ll see 10.x+ Psi around 4k rpms then obviously keeps going from there.

 

Max boost on the PSB-1 is always from boost spikes where there's a large impulse of air, usually during the shift in my experience. Mine will read 7.5psi max, but holds pretty consistent at like 5.5psi. I have an analog gauge I used early on to verify the PSB-1 numbers, which generally seems correct but since the analog gauge has some inertia to it I found you wouldn't see the same max reading since the gauge couldn't react fast enough. When you're recording at 500Hz, you need a couple milliseconds of boost and it registers it, but the engine I suspect doesn't see that spike for long enough to actually react from it, and the analog gauge with it's slower reaction time would average out those inconsistencies. The normal boost reading on the PSB-1 matched the analog pretty well, albeit is fairly chaotic again being due to the digital nature and jumping around constantly where as the analog flattens the readings out.

With that said, I do find the max boost reading to be consistent and repeatable and an easy way to check the max limit of what the engine COULD experience. But it's a far cry from what is happening during 95% of a pull.

 

It was for removal when thinking you needed a puller. Using the hold bolts to press off on cover.

 

Ah ok. I used to need a puller for the old 4.7's once in a while but I don't think I can remember ever needing one on a 5.7. Definitely would not want to push against the cover to remove it

 

Mine stays pretty flat from 4000rpm and up. Hit a whopping 5.2psi on my last log

 

Weird. Mines keeps on climbing.

 

So basically in your case for example, saying your boost pressure is 7.5psi instead of 5.5 is like claiming I go to the gym because I go once a year? It’s not wrong, but it’s not right either lol.