Griot’s 3-in-1 Ceramic Wax Review

It can be used as a topper, just won’t last as long as it does as a stand-alone. It will last longer than Beadmaker, though it won’t be as glossy or slick.

 

Just to re-visit this thread . . . it's been 10 months since I applied 2 coats of 3 in 1 Griots after a wash & clay job. I'm still very happy with how it's held up. Around 2 months after I applied it I purchased a bottle of Griots Ceramic Speed Shine. I've used it sparingly when I'm drying the truck and it seems that it has extended the life of the 3 in 1 really well. I only wash my truck every 4 weeks or so, it sure seems to stay pretty clean, and bird crap comes right off.

I've never done a paint correction on it and have no plans too, looks good enough for me.

Just washed & speed shine'd. . . .

 

Looks great...love those Gen 1's

 

Thank You Sir . . . it's what I could afford & lucked into what I think is a good one. Just happy to have a clean reliable vehicle that serves my needs.

 

Just picked up a bottle of 3 in 1. I have a 2021 lunar rock tundra and wonder if a clay bar then washing is enough before using the 3 in 1. Any good suggestions from the pros here?

 

Make sure you wash first, then clay bar. I mentioned on an earlier post, that even though I've not seen marring from a clay bar, Brian from Apex detail has a video showing it can happen. I've used 3 in 1 after a clay bar without polishing, but those were hammered cars and the customer did not have the budget for a polishing step. If there was any marring from the clay bar, it certainly did not show with all the other defects in the paint.

Depending on the condition of your paint, I'd check for any marring. If it's there, then a light polish on a polishing pad with a DA will take care of it.

 

Should definitely be fine. I’d recommend using a chemical decon ahead of the clay bar. Iron X is pretty much the best out there.
Wash
Iron X
Rinse
Clay bar
Wash
3 in 1

While not an absolute must, a treatment with an IPA like Carpro Eraser between the final wash and 3 in 1 application would remove any residual oils and help the sealant bond a bit better.

The Iron X will remove a lot of the contamination on its own, making the clay bar step easier. I’ve not had any marring from using a Nanoskin clay mitt along with Iron X, and I’ve done a lot of it on just about every shade of paint out there.
It’s obviously possible considering so many people have reported it, but I’ve never had it happen. I use a fine grade mitt and if anything I overdo it on lubrication.

Just make sure you have shade and cool paint before doing any of it. @Fotnot just did some work on his Lunar Rock Sequoia. I don’t remember if he clayed it or not, but if he saw any marring he didn’t mention it.

 

@Pipo6007 I just did a ceramic coating on my 21 Lunar Rock. I did do a decon with iron-X. I've had the truck for less than a month and bought it the day after it landed at the lot. It's been washed and kept clean, but I still do a decon knowing there's always gonna be stuff on it unless someone does it before you. here is a pic of the iron-x about 30 seconds after I sprayed it on the back panel. you can see the purple where it is reacting with it.

I did a clay bar after. I'm currently using up what I have in the clay bar dept....which is meguiar's quik detailer that usually comes with their clay bar kits and a mother's speed clay 2.0 pad. i have had zero issues with it, and it's very easy to use. i've never had any marring or anything with this clay, or even when I was using the clay kit from Meguiar's.

 

Awesome brother!

 

Has anyone noticed 3-in-1 degrade above the engine quicker than the rest of the paint?

I just noticed this on my commuter car. its been neglected over the last year and a half because...well....i haven't had to commute. I went to spray the big chunks of dirt off with the hose and take it on its bi-weekly drive and noticed that the water was beading everywhere still but above the engine bay

 

I've noticed that as well . . . not bad but it's def. not lasting quite as long as the sides.
I have a Steel Blue Metallic Gen 1 Tundra that gets pretty warm in the direct sun, that coupled with engine heat I'm guessing it's too be expected.
The roof of my cab and roof of my shell are also wearing a bit quicker as well. All the dirt, dew, and contaminants land on the flat surfaces.

FWIW, You might try picking up a bottle of their Ceramic Speed Shine and use as you dry your vehicle . . . it seems to keep the 3 in 1 alive a bit longer. YMMV

 

I'll look into that.

 

Did just that today......will be using that combination on my daughters Hyundai

 

Did that as well Sunday. She needs some paint correction though, has some minor water spots... But apparently I'm the only one that can see them so there's that

 

I also happen to be the only one who notices the imperfections in my paint. It’s a curse.

 

It’s to be expected in spots where there’s more heat.
It may also be a factor of arm reach. Unless I get the ladder out, I can’t quite reach the upper middle of the hood well enough to get a sealant spread as well as I do on the rest of the truck.
Whether or not I get that ladder out varies greatly depending on my enthusiasm.

 

I hear ya.
Now i'm 100% sure that i used the griots ceramic wash and coat....i'm not 100% sure i used the 3in1 spray. I know i didn't do any paint decon/correction....i may have just hit it after a wash with the 3in1, but it could just be the ceramic wash/coat.

Like i said, this car hasn't been driven much in the last year and a half, and its probably been a solid 4months since its last wash. It was pretty dirty/dusty and the entire vehicle (except above the engine) was extremely hydrophobic still. Very pleased with it.

 

I’m in South Florida too. Two questions. I read that it’ll streak in warmer weather. I’m assuming that it only happens during application, not when dried. When (month or time of day) do you apply it? And, does this go on the car’s windows too? Thanks - Kathy

 

I personally do not put it on any glass except for the side view mirror.

As for time, morning in the shade works for me. The biggest tip I can give is follow the instructions which say to work in small areas. Wipe of quickly. I use a two detailing cloth method. I spray a small area, wipe off with cloth #1. Then buff to a high gloss with cloth #2.

 

This is the time of year to do it. My suggestions are

early morning in the garage.

Do not use to much product. Treat it like glass cleaner. Light spray wipe on with rag one then wipe off rag two. Plan on 8 rags to do full vehicle.

the main issue we have seen is people overusing the product.

do one panel at a time.

when finished pull it. Out into the sun and inspect.

don’t use on glass.

 

Looping back on this ancient reply because I found it while hunting something else and know the answer, @Pudge and @ToyoMafia missed something, but I know the answer. Not knocking y'all or anything so don't take it the wrong way, I suspect it's just unfamiliarity with aphids at the core of it. Maybe y'all don't live in the SE or another area where aphid infestation is acommon nuisance.

What you see on your vehicle is not the result of the Griot's product. It looks to me like your vehicle was parked under a Hackberry tree. You'll know these trees by their unique bark, and the annoying-as-fuck peppercorn-like seeds that send up volunteers everwhere and are hell on your heels if you like to walk around barefoot.

Hackberries are native trees for our region, FGV. Sometime in the late 90s or early 2000s, we introduced the Chinese Woolly Aphid importing things from overseas. It's a non-native aphid that loves Hackberries and has no natural predators. They are little white fluffy guys you'll often find on leaf litter in your yard in the fall. They attach to the underside of the leaf, suck sap from the tree, then excrete 'honeydew' which is essentially glucose.

The end result is, anything below the tree canopy gets coated in a sugary film. You'll typically see this on your windshield, as a mist, but you'll notice it on your pavement, cars, grass, and plants under the tree canopy, especially when sooty mildew/mold/algae, which finds it a great food source, starts to take root into your paint. In my case, I have a stand of Hackberries behind my house, and had one in the front yard. The retention wall that's below where it once was, and the sidewalk, are permanently discolored from it. I can snap pics if you want to see it.

If not dealt with, it'll cause permanent damage. For more pics of what it looks like and how bad it can get, hit Google Images and search for "aphid honeydew on car"

@FirstGenVol learn how to spot hackberries, see page 31 in TN's tree guide: https://www.tn.gov/content/dam/tn/twra/documents/habitat/tree-id-guide.pdf

Best method I've found for control is Bayer Tree & Shrub Protect & Feed. But it's spendy and takes a lot to really control, depending how large caliper/DBH the tree(s) is/are. Dilute as directed and apply to the root plate area in spring, just as the tree starts to show buds. Re-apply in mid-summer. After 2-3 years of use, you should see the treated trees start to decline.

If you don't have any Hackberry trees nearby, and it's all oaks over your parking area, then your oaks probably have scale. Scale does similar, but sometimes more mildly. Here's what scale looks like, both an infestation, and a mild case.

Similar aphids attack Crepe Myrtles also, same garbage honeydew output.

EDIT: The fact you originally posted this in September, which is their height of activity, just reinforces what I'm saying.

​

 

That's exactly what it was. I learned that later.

 

Read the thread and it’s full of excellent information. Thank you!
Just curious, a few members spray the 3-in-1 on to their mf towel instead of directly on to the paint and report better results.
Thoughts @ToyoMafia and @War Machine ?

 

IMO the best overall way is like you are saying, spray onto MF towel. It's a lot simpler & easier and in the end it comes out better.
I sprayed directly on the paint and I had/ have a few rainbow areas that were tough to buff out . . . the tailgate still has some.
'More is better' is not the case with this stuff.
You can also 'control' and keep track of the application spraying on the MF . . . you don't get overspray and there's less chance of 'flashing'.

i'm certainly no expert . . . just my opinion from using the 3-in-1 a few times now.

 

I’ve never tried this approach but I can see it working well. One MF to apply and two to get off.

Almost all issues with this product is over applying and heat (sun)