How-to guide for converting your 2007-2013 Tundra to Full Time AWD capability

Thanks to him too

 

Dang it, nothing can go good for me.

I need some assistance.

I followed the wiring diagram from the PDF
CDL switch
#6-Chassis Ground
#7-4WD ecu pin #14
#8-positive from 12 volt socket
#9-4WD ECU pin #12

switch says lit up.
I thought it would only light up when the center diff was locked.

I don’t have an led wired in


4wd engaged but won’t disengage.
Not sure if it’s the 4WD ECU, not sure how to test it, it was an eBay special.

Any help would be appreciated

 

Is it a on/off switch or momentary? You need a momentary to only send a quick signal to engage. A on/off won't work, but I believe you got the Sequoia cdl.
***Try switching pins 7 and 9. I looked at the pdf it should work...

 

Just for reference as i think you mixed the pins on 4wd ecu?
This us what I used. Maybe go over to see what wires are what, does it have a Normal open/closed wire for the switch? Pin 14 has the red splice with orange wire and pin12 is the orange wire connected to blue in the pic.
This is the momentary switch I used.

$10 APIELE 16mm Momentary Black Push Button Switch On Off with 12V LED Angel Ring Head for 16mm 0.63" Mounting Hole with Wire Socket Plug Self-Reset (Yellow/Black Shell)

https://www.amazon.com/API-ELE-warranty-Momentary-Mounting-Self-reset/dp/B091B26J4V?crid=3IUZWU14VAUM&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ixBnsvZbsK39lA-V31HhzwcX79tD4PNdW5OL7AZfjXCpGp_MbRUoRx0A9J1f2jraNHnmyN2wdwfqAO5oomfXrRqzTvKLNYcyHQ1xEPFckt14tHTGFIsnpxh-1o7P83FLsolFQ6oUNjAvaw9wHmCJ3rEDQ068VhnEj_yd8umMYlsGEj_fWuMxfbZgy1DLs5m4qthCGyGvalhjj_vrVPvRSQ.XU8spV_i_M9oSTfmjtFuVvOx0qC4noFgoqu-O_Z3H_o&dib_tag=se&keywords=apiele+momentary+switch&qid=1735075362&sprefix=apiele+momentary+switch%2Caps%2C230&sr=8-12&th=1

 

It is the sequoia center diff switch,

I swapped them pins, nothing.

Swapped them back, now it works as it should.
Not sure if the actuator needed more time or what. But it does lock, unlock and go in and out of 4WD.

Odd but I’ll take it.

 

I thought I was gonna have to take out the ecu and blow in it like an old Nintendo cartridge.

Driveshaft is done, I should install that Monday after I pick it up.

 

I gotta question maybe concern.

Did my maiden voyage today and engaged/disengaged 4hi while driving and seemed it resisted a bit as 4hi was flashing more than before and at one point had some chatter. Pulled over and engaged/disengaged while in neutral and it worked much more smoothly and almost immediately 4hi went solid when placed into gear.

4hi awd works great, no binding etc. and personally didn't feel much extra effort when turning. As a precaution I guess I'll engage/disengage when not moving?

What are your guy's thoughts?

 

Assuming you purchased a used T case and not a new one, I expect the shift motor just needs some use to loosen up. Both my tundra and sequoia feel like they take an extra few seconds to shift in to 4wd after a period of non-use. Then they seem to play nice. I’d shift in and out of 4wd a few times over the next few days before worrying about it.

 

As blenton stated, this was my deal too. First few times it seemed to take longer and now engages/disengages with no issue. Could be from the case not being used and needed some cycling.

 

Will do, the main thing I felt concerned about was when shifting into 4hi at about 30mph the chatter coming from the TC sounded real bad, like not engaging/grinding. But I'll keep loosening it up as you guys are suggesting.

Big shout out and THANKS to all that helped me and others out with this project. @Mdl @Wynnded @blenton @Jowett @ViktorG

 

Thanks.
Have you tried at lower speeds? Does it disengage alright?

 

Forgot who did the pdf with schematic and wanted to at least post it here for others.

 

Originally when I first went around my neighborhood it was at slower speeds and again slower than usual to engage and disengage without unusual noise. Unlike when I went onto the main streets and started to exercise it more. Got scared and pulled over and went through neutral/reverse/drive while engaging and disengaging without moving at speeds. So, I'm thinking like everyone's suggested it has been sitting and needs to be exercised a bit more. Seems to disengage as well as engaging, just slower than expected.

 

Mine has always seemed to do this, but I don't recall what it was like with the original case as it's been a while. Nowadays I tend to put it in 4WD way ahead of when I might anticipate wanting it; before leaving the driveway, traversing the neighborhood roads on the way out the the main thoroughfares and other slower speed scenarios. Sometimes I'll leave it in 4WD for weeks, it just depends upon Mother Nature.

 

Things do have to happen in a sequence. The t-case first has to engage the forward drive shaft, then when the ECU is satisfied that that has completed, it will connect the front half shaft. There are splined collars that if not aligned and are binding you might need to ease up on the throttle, or gently transition on and off throttle, or move the steering wheel left/right. The same for disengagement, that's generally why it sometimes takes longer. You might already be aware of this.

I'm just going from memory, but found this and should probably watch them again myself:



And this:

 

Here's the video showing the entire system adding the front differential sequence.

 

Weber always has good info! Thanks!

 

Found a case from a 13 with 113k miles for $500 USD. Is that a good deal or not really? Was hoping to spend a bit less...

 

I paid $450 for a 2012 with 80k. I'd say it's pretty good. Better than $800-1k.

 

You guys must have better resources in your area, both those sound like good deals to me. Only local ones I could have purchased were $800+ with 125k or $925 with 109k. Had to purchase on ebay, $1100 with 67k. Zero rust on the actuator housing bolts is how I kinda gauged its winter/salt life.

 

Dang. So it is a reasonable price for sure. Of course I come across it when I'm not ready to buy or install...

 

Post a link and we'll tell you...

Just kidding. I couldn't find a decent one for less than $800 when I was looking, so $500 would be a heck of deal to me.

 

Anyone know of having issues with running a 2/4 drop kit with the AWD conversion, mainly on the rcsb? Was @ViktorG running a 2/4 and caltracks?

 

I recall somebody asking the same question a while back. The big concern was the driveshaft length; they loaded a 2000# pallet in the bed to get it to squat and measured the rear driveshaft before and after. IIRC, the change was 1/4", maybe 3/8", so it resolved the question for them and appeared to be a non-issue. Else, I can't think of any other issues.

 

I don't see why there would be an issue.
@Wynnded would know...

 

I think I read @Wynnded doing the articulation test. Was not sure if it would be any different with a flip of the axle etc.. which comes with lowering it. Thanks for the input.

 

I would've called it a squat test, but I know we're all thinking of the same thing. Yes, I did this with 1500lbs, as that's max payload for my truck and recall a mere 1/4" of driveshaft plunge from stock empty ride height. I have no idea what's involved in a lowering kit. Is it basically going from spring over to spring under?

 

From what I recall from his YouTube videos, Viktor was slammed. Spring under. With a leaf or two removed I think. And caltracs. I think the rcsb guys have to notch somewhere slightly for drive shaft clearance.

 

Dusting out the cobwebs, so please correct me if I'm wrong...

Mechanically, the swap can be done with just the T-case, shortened drive shaft, and sequoia 4wd ECU - yes?

This gets you 2WD/4HiAWD/4LoAWD.

In order to get 4 Locked, you can either install the sequoia switch or a momentary switch to simply ground pin 12 on the 4wd ECU. Most of the wiring is getting the switch powered and then grounding the 4wd ECU correctly. Yes?

Pulling the truck half way apart his weekend and want finally tick this one off the list.