Metal oil filter housing

The valves are mostly for the pan drain.

There are also some similar looking products in this thread meant to drain the OEM filter housing too.

I am interested more in the filter housing attachments as the filter already has a valve integrated. The disposable drain attachments that come with new filters are messy to use.

 

Thanks! That's what I figured but just wanted to be sure before I go off and order stuff that I don't need. I had a Fumoto on my 06 Tacoma for years and it worked great but I never had to mess with a filter housing since its filter was a screw on type under the hood. Think I'm going to place an order tonight for the metal filter housing, a

$40 F133N with LC-10 F-Series Large Body FUMOTO® Valve with Long Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for M12-1.25

F133N for my drain pan, and the motivx filter wrench with a different drain tool since the set has been sold out for a while.

 

Okay, for those of you are are more trusting of Amazon. When I initially purchased them earlier this week, I was given a 2-3 week estimate for delivery. They were delivered today. Just need to run to the mail box and retrieve them. I'll be running them over to the dealer, picking up my bushings that I ordered, and showing them to the parts guy to see if I get any weird looks....

 

EWKTOOL.COM

website for tool, funnel and filter drain i bought on Amazon.

 

https://www.ewktool.com/product/eb0301-engine_oil_change_tool_set/?v=7516fd43adaa

 

My OEM plastic housing was cracked by a Toyota Tech on my 2016 Tundra during one of the first free oil changes. Didn't notice until getting home and seeing the small drip on my new concrete driveway.
They replaced it with a new plastic one. I changed it out to the Toyota OEM aluminum housing. No issues after that. Plan to do the same on my 2021.

 

The only time I've ever used a valve was on an RV with the drain plug conveniently placed directly above the front axle

Otherwise, it's no problem to R&R a drain plug. For the filter housing I use a plastic bottle, like 1/2 liter soft drink bottle, and use it to push the plastic device up into the drain, which then drains the oil in the filter into the bottle.

But .... I've got an old shop that I use that's already got oil spots all over the floor, and I don't mind getting nasty.

 

None of the drain tools are necessary. They’re all for convenience.
Sure, you can dump the oil by removing a plug. It’s up to the owner to determine if that’s the best for them. Same with the filter housing.
The tools simply make it easier to contain the old oil because you have more control.

 

I made a huge mess the first time I did a Toyota cartridge style oil change. I have gotten much better, but I think the drain hose is the ticket.

 

Took my Amazon metal oil filter housings to the dealer. Confirmed my Amazon purchases were the real deal...

 

I wasn't sure what to expect. I was using an Amsoil filter which comes with a screw-in plastic piece instead of the push-in piece that others come with. I removed the cover and got a little oil and thought this is no problem. Then I started screwing the piece in, and oil started running through it and right up my sleeve. As I said previously, though, I'm accustomed to getting dirty in the shop, so I lived through it. Since then, I've started using Mobil 1 filters, which come with the push-in piece. I drop it into the top of a 1/2 liter Coke bottle, and use the bottle to push it in. It immediately starts draining into the bottle. I remove the bottle after it slows to a trickle and let it drain into a pan. That actually works pretty well on my RAV4. First Tundra oil change coming up. We'll see

 

This ^^^.

I usually have to do my oil Tundra oil change in the driveway using Rhino ramps. So I put my oil drain pan up on about a 12" tall sturdy box. Gets it closer to the drain valve in case any breeze blows under the truck. I don't want to use a tube and then...........have to clean a stinkin' tube. Not my cup of tea.

 

Good idea raising the oil drain pain. I usually save a couple large Amazon/shipping boxes. I cut them into large squares and place them under my oil drain pain whenever I do an oil change, to catch any oil that may spill. I use put the cardboard under the 5 quart jugs when I refill with the old oil. When I'm done, I just fold it up and toss them. Keeps the garage as clean as possible. Raising the pan would help too.

 

Anybody got a line on the long tube for the inside? I have the metal housing, but a buddy wants my old plastic one, so we just need a long tube.

 

does dealer sell just the tube?

 

$19 Oil Filter Housing Cap Assembly with Oil Plug 917-016CD for Select Lexus/Scion/Toyota Models, Aluminum Replace 15620-0S010, 15620-31040, 15620-31050, 15620-31060, 15620-36020, 15620-38010

https://www.amazon.com/15620-0S010-...dge+filter+housing+tub+,aps,115&sr=8-18-spons

https://www.amazon.com/Mid-Valley-A...33------------&vehicleName=2007+Toyota+Tundra

Looks like Amazon sells the housing with various tube sizes. Not sure if these housings are for a Tundra tho. Did an internet search for "toyota tundra oil filter cap tube"; looks like most places sell the entire housing but it includes three tubes, short, medium and long

Good luck

 

Posted this last week, all set up to do my oil changes from now on without dropping my skid plate or making a mess;

So, yesterday my truck hit 10,000 miles after owning it for almost 27 months. I work out of the country most of the year and it's not my only vehicle, hence the low mileage. It's been 5,000 miles since the dealer performed the first oil change and it's time for me to get it set up correctly for me to do it from now on. I want to make it as clean and simple as possible so that I can perform the changes without dropping the TRD front skid plate. With that in mind I made the following changes to the truck.

1. Dropped the TRD front skid plate to allow unfettered access to the oil filter and oil drain plug. While I had it off I pressure washed it to satisfy my Tundra induced OCD.

2. Drained the oil from the oil pan and installed a Fumoto F133S Valve. This is the newer model of the Fumoto valve that will fit the Tundra and will allow me to cleanly drain the oil, with the use of a plastic hose, without dropping the front skid plate.




Fumoto F133S Oil Drain Valve with Heavy Duty 3' Hose Kit - S/S F103S
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CMLV964?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

3. Purchased and used a Motivx Oil Filter Wrench to remove the oil filter cap. Also, purchased a oil filter drain tool and hose to allow clean draining of the oil filter through the TRD skid plate access door. Got the Motivx Engine Oil Funnel for Tundra as well. Note: I would have bought the complete Motivx kit for the Tundra but they were out of stock so I ended up purchasing the parts separately since it was time to change the oil and I didn't want to wait around for it.




$25 Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench for Toyota Camry, Tundra, Tacoma, 4Runner, RAV4 and More - 64mm 14 Flute Precision CNC Machined Aluminum Oil Filter Removal Tool

$30 Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench for Toyota Camry, Tundra, Tacoma, 4Runner, RAV4 and More - 64mm 14 Flute Precision CNC Machined Aluminum Oil Filter Removal Tool

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XTAGHU0?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details




$15 Apeixoto Oil Filter Drain Tool Compatible with Toyota Scion Lexus 2.0L-5.7L Engines Oil Filter Drain Hose Tool

Apeixoto Oil Filter Drain Tool Compatible with Toyota Scion Lexus 2.0L-5.7L Engines Oil Filter Drain Hose Tool

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LMVJBMJ?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details




$20 Motivx Tools Engine Oil Funnel for Toyota, Lexus, and Scion Vehicles with Threaded Oil Filler Caps – Fits Most Camry, Corolla, RAV4, Tacoma, Highlander, Sienna, Tundra, RX350 and Many More

$25 Motivx Tools Engine Oil Funnel for Toyota, Lexus, and Scion Vehicles with Threaded Oil Filler Caps – Fits Most Camry, Corolla, RAV4, Tacoma, Highlander, Sienna, Tundra, RX350 and Many More

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016FVJUX0?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

4. Replaced the bs OEM plastic Oil Filter Cap Assembly with the correct fitting Toyota aluminum version. There is lots of instruction online here and on YouTube on how to do this properly, but mainly you have to switch the center part of the oil filter cap on the aluminum version with the longer one in the original plastic model. Very simple to do and the end result is an aluminum cap that you don't have to worry about cross threading or cracking over time.

$31 Genuine Toyota 15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Assembly

$22 Toyota Genuine Parts - Cap Assy, Oil Filter (15620-31060)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BHP68A?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

5. Purchased a half case of 5 OEM Oil Filter Kits.

$26 Toyota Genuine Parts 04152-YZZA4 Replaceable Oil Filter Element 1/2 Case (QTY 5)

$28 Toyota Genuine Parts 04152-YZZA4 Replaceable Oil Filter Element 1/2 Case (QTY 5)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007OW6LSC?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

6. Changed the oil with Mobil 1 Extended Performance Full Synthetic 0W-20. (Purchased at the local Wally World for $27 each.)

7. While I had the skid plate off I finally got around to installing the TRD Front Sway Bar that's been sitting in my garage for quite a while. Easy-peasy install, took about 20 minutes by myself once I had the skid plate off.

 

Was that dealer oil change at 5000 miles done under Toyota Care or anything or was that a special request? Isn't the factory-specified internal 10,000 miles for oil changes?

 

Did you also swap out the center tube on the aluminum oil filter housing you installed for the longer tube that was in the plastic housing on your tundra?
I appreciate your feedback as I am looking to do this on my 2017 tundra
thank you

 

did you have to transfer the center tube from your plastic oil filter housing to your new metal oil filter housing?

have you had any problems since switching to aluminum oil filter housing?

I appreciate your time on this ...

 

@WhistlingPete72. Yes, you need to transfer the longer tube from the plastic one to the new Aluminum housing, only takes a minute.

 

appreciate it

 

did you use everthing in the aluminum housing including spring etc and only use the tube from the plastic housing only?

 

Yes, took the longer one from the OEM housing and put in the metal one. The metal one comes with short tube (fits RAV4). It was easy. There's youtube videos, but you basically use a screwdriver or small pick, bend tabs up and it comes right out. Put it in the metal one, bend tabs down and done.

I've had no issues with the metal housing. I put one in my Tundra, both daughters RAVs and my wife's Lexus NX. I've done at least 2 oil changes on each since swapping. Not issue at all.

 

I used all the new parts for the metal housing since it was going into my truck. I saved the plastic one with the short tube all assembled since my daughters both have RAVs and my wife has a Lexus NX (very very nice RAV!). The plastic one fits into theirs. I've saved all my plastic ones. Dealer charges an arm and a leg for them. More than the metal one actually.

 

No, swap everything from the plastic housing to the Aluminum one.

 

Yes, I did swap out the center tube. Although I recently broke the center tube on my last oil change. The new oil filter was tighter than normal and it blew the center stack apparent. I ended up buying the OEM plastic one again. I read that Toyota did put some though into the plastic cap and that it's pretty strong for what it is minus the ease of striping out the threads.

 

Yes it is messy. oil is stored post filtration when engine is off. I created a contraption out of a metal clothes hanger that will keep a gallon zip lock bag open to catch the oil while holding it with one hand.

 

Me: reads post by @Giskk

Me: hits like button while nodding f@ck yeah!

 

That's what I did...