New Front Brakes and Rotors

How do I insert just thumbnails next time? That's what I told it to do but see huge full size pictures.

 

For 13WL calipers:

04465-35290 are original, and they are still available.

04465-AZ200 are the lower cost "TCMC" pads. The Advics aftermarket pads are the better buy over the TCMC pads since they come with shims.

I always liked the 35290 pads. They work really well, dust isn't bad, and they hold up.

I have also found that pricing for OE Toyota rotors through an online dealer (with discount) beats buying the same Advics rotor through Rockauto due to shipping costs. Many of the Toyota dealers in the SE have free shipping over $75 in addition to the occasional 10-25% discount.

 

+1 on Advics pads with shims vs reusing old shims or buyng shim kit. Can you share how/where you get free shipping with discount dealers? Lithiatoyotaparts, McGeorge and some others have great pricing but I have not figured out how to get free shipping recently even using toyota.com/owners code. So like you mention haven't found them or Rock Auto to make sense aftèr shipping for heavy items vs buying local without discount.

 

This is just one example that I use often:

https://autoparts.northgeorgiatoyota.com/

You need to enter the part numbers at the top; the catalog browsing isn't great.

Presently there is an extra 10% discount until January 20 & free ground shipping over $75.

I think autoparts.toyota.com will let you search for dealers closer to you, and some of those may have discounted online pricing.

 

Awesome thanks. I hadn't had luck using FREESHIP with discount dealers found through autoparts.toyota.com but do have one near me that is great for shipping discount items that aren't heavy and can often get things overnight or in 2 days.

 

Something else that I have noticed -- the dealer online discount rate varies, so it's worthwhile to check out a few. If the items are being shipped for free, then find the best discount!

North GA Toyota does pretty well, and they are reasonably close for me -- so I often get shipped parts within 2 days at most if I can't drive over.

 

Lithiatoyotaparts seems to have some of the best discounts I've found near me but haven't been able to get the freeship. Thanks for North GA tip. Have to check how long to get to west coast and if they'll do that for free. May have to just spend more time on the search engine for west coast supplier...

 

I stopped using napa rotors for this exact reason. Also, does your parking brake work?

 

Yes, serviced and adjusted the rears so parking brake works well. Also have the riser on the proportioning valve to compensate for lift.

 

Yea i pick up a Set of OEM. I get a 10% dicount at my local Toyota Dealer. So Far she is Braking as she should nice to have a smooth braking. Of course when you fix something something else wants to go bad or try at least. 4WD didnt want to activate went through all the testing and assume i would have to replace the acutator at some point. The other day while pulling in my inlaws driveway to drop my daughter off their curve for there driveway sits pretty high and its like hitting a pothole. Unfortunately they live on a real busy road and its the safety place to park. Well she kicked on and works. now. So what I learned activate your 4wd every so often.

 

Yup, that's in the Owner's Manual. Going from memory, I think they tell you 10 miles per month.

 

Following . . . I'm in need of new rotors / pads.
Rotors are the original with 80K miles.

 

I would say play it safe and go oem

 

Damn that’s rough.

I’d get Advics pad kit with Advics rotors. You need the part numbers? I’ve got them jotted down on my computer.

 

I used Powerstop from Ra to replace OEM a couple weeks ago and they are great so far. A thin schmear of antiseize around the hub made pulling the old rotors a breeze.

 

^^^^This or compare price of 25% off online prices with free shipping for OEM may be similar cost IIRC but Advics don't have to wait for sale! Also, sure you need rotors after 80k or can just repad?

 

Yeah . . . the previous owner towed a heavy boat with it for a while. Then I got it and pulled my boat with it , including on some longer downhill grades. Brakes never felt that 'great', but reading here that our brakes are weak to begin with, I figured it was standard. So when i replaced the pads a couple years ago and looked into re-surfacing . . . the local guy who turns them measured and said they were 'borderline', and that he wouldn't turn them. He recommended either getting new rotors and pads, or slap new pads & get new rotors next time. In that time I had the rears (which were completely shot) re-done, and that helped a lot, and got my e-brake to work again . . . now I'm getting a pretty significant pulsation on the new-ish pads . . . . that's why I'm feeling like I need new rotors.

 

Pad slap is generally an unfavorable practice. Either A: machine the rotors, or B:install new rotors. Sounds like you were advised to get new rotors and you ignored the advice. Are you getting pulsation on the front or the rear? Were the rear drums resurfaced?

 

Agreed. Have been able to swap on same pads one time on OE rotors with out a turn if not previously run too hard and are in a certain condition. Dealer even has done it b4.

Think Toy OEM rotors on sale are cheaper than the Advics ... if get free shipping with the sale. But don't see a sale currently at Serra....

$86 ADVICS A6F004U Disc Brake Rotor

ADVICS A6F004U Disc Brake Rotor

$64 Advics AD0976 Front Brake Pad

Advics AD0976 Front Brake Pad

Currently running OEM pads, indexed rotors, and new pins/springs.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/new-front-brakes-and-rotors.135966/#post-3452524

Here you can see the Toy pads are Advics and don't come with shims. @shifty` can confirm but think the Advics come with attached shims.

 

Pulsing is def. from the front . . . I got new drums for the rear.
I knew the pad slap was a bad call , I just needed to get down the road & figured I was on borrowed time.

 

Pulsing can come from the rear. There's been a ton of people on here who've gotten out-of-spec drums straight outta the box, at least with hardware-store-brands.

If it started after the new drums, they'd be my 1st suspect.

 

I'll check it out . . . thanks for that.
I think I'm due for rotors anyways . . . So I may work backwards and do the front rotors/ pads & then if it still pulses, look into the drums.
Thanks @shifty` . . . always appreciate your insight.

Edit, - TBH I don't remember when I started noticing the pulsing, it may or may not have been before I had the rears done. The new pads I got for the front haven't impressed me at all . . . they do the very low-speed creek / vibrate when braking at less than a walking speed right before you come to a complete stop, and again if you slowly release the brake pedal. They also dust-up the wheels pretty bad . . . so

 

I put Powerstop drilled and slotted rotors on my RCLB and was happy with them for 20K miles.....until the first time I pulled a 4K# trailer. Now they are warped bad.

 

Rear pulse can be tested using ebrake to isolate from fronts.