No-start issue but starter cranks and battery is new

@Bubba In terms of your wiring diagram and the neutral safety switch, so the power comes to the NSS from 2 places - PINK (key in crank position) and the BLUE wire (constant keyed power in ON position)

so I need to check the P wire coming out of the ECM to see if it’s hot when key in CRANK position?

Also, is the Junction (28) (29) after the NSS accessible? On the fire wall?

 

First and foremost, I applaud you for dealing with this problem if still experiencing this crazy vortex weather we all are experiencing. Don't wish to send you on a wild goose chase but will offer what I can if you ask.
By chance have you been able to drag/tow that beast to your garage ?

So we're on same page, I assume NSS is what Toyota calls Park/Neutral Position Switch ?

According to what or how you jumpered, that could be a normal result.

 

I appreciate it, I’m pretty desperate to get this rig started and it’s actually warmed up quite a bit . Only about -15°C now. Unfortunately it’s still on the street so at least my neighbours are getting a show haha. Thanks for sticking with me on this journey, really hoping it doesn’t end with me getting it towed somewhere.$$$$

I mistyped earlier, the one wire coming into the NSS (park/neutral position switch) DOES have constant power in ACC. Which is good. But I need to check if the other wire (PINK in your diagram) has power with key in IGN ON (CRANK).

that diagram you posted is a relief because that means the Reverse in the dash is normal.

I think I should also check the PINK wire coming from the ECM and check that it’s hot when key is in IGN ON.

Huge thanks for all the help, the diagrams are a life saver and much easier to follow than a FSM

 

Yes, pin 11(pink) E5 connector of ECU should have 12vdc in that condition.

2 birds with 1 stone time....28/29 are female/male connectors attached to each other. Their in same location as IJ1

 

thanks again! Maybe I’ll hit those connections with some dielectric grease. I’ll keep you posted

 

When you have the key on engine off is your check engine light illuminated? Just verifying that it has some sort of communication with ECU.

Could you just send a picture of your key so we can see if it is an immobilizer key? Think it should be easy to tell just based on key thickness.

 

no, key in/engine off the check engine light is not on and when I hook up my Bluetooth code reader it says it can’t connect. Which it has never done before.

the key is just a stamped metal key. Where do I check to see if I have an immobilizer?

 

Same for me

Key in but OFF, no OBDII, no check engine light.
KEY in but ACC/ON, have OBDII, check engine light lit.

 

Ok i might be using the wrong terminology here, i'm talkin key turned right as far as it'll go without cranking. So is that ACC/ON and cranking is IGN/ON?

If so, ACC/ON i have no engine light or OBDII connection

The thing that has me thinking this is more than just power to the starter relay, is that when i jump the starter the engine just cranks. It has always fired up after 2 cranks max.

Its like nothing else is functioning either, but I've got it in the garage now finally so can spend some real time diagnosing it.

 

I'm saying it as, key all the way over to last position before starting. Ignition on but not trying to start the engine. You should have the check engine light illuminated at this point. That sounds to me like there is an issue communicating with the ECU. You have an 05 so the bulbs on the cluster should be LED so the chances of that bulb just being burned out are very slim.

As for me, that's about as far as I can take you, the wiring diagram experts may have more to say but this is just my assumption.

If you have a stamped metal key then you have no immobilizer, at least in the factory toyota side of things.

 

LOCK - ACC - ON(IgnOn) - START

I know, mice and men don't RTFM

....

The Combination Meter is fed by the 10A IGN1 fuse and the key has to be in ON position(IG2) for the "engine light" to come on, along with the other lights.

We have to have START before IGNITION which is why the Starting circuit in the EWD is a fairly basic drawing.

As for the OBDII, your 05 DC uses CAN bus and the OBD ports CANL/CANH will only have their respective operating voltages when the ECU ouputs the CANL/CANH signals. That doesn't happen till the key is in the ON position(IG2) and the ECU receives it's IGSW input via the 10A IGN1 fuse.

 

Thanks again Bubba, I need far more clarification than the common man haha.

With key in the ON position the Tundra is not showing a check engine light. I also do not have power exiting the PINK wire or the Blue/Red stripe wire in the ON or START position and I just checked to find I don't have power on the RED/Blue stripe wire going into the ECU. Which I believe is coming directly from the 7.5A STA fuse. So thats not good.

I double checked all the fuses , IGN1 and IGN2 are good.

 

So I'm not assuming wrongly....

Quick comment/question before heading out....when you first turn key to ON position, check engine light and a few others(batt, seat belt, air bag....etc) should come on but after a few seconds, they should go off.

Does that happen ?

Nope, not good at all.

The pink and blue/red wires won't have 12vdc at the output of the ECU until you get 12vdc input to ECU....red/blue pin 12(NTSW) of ECU. As noted in the basic Starting diagram I've posted a few times.

 

No, when turn key to ON i get - BATT, SEATBELT, TPMS and they stay on.

Yes like mentioned, the RED/blue stripe wire does not have 12vdc going into the ECU

So the power is not getting from the fuse to the ECU. I am currently going through the online FSM trying to locate the IJ1 and IE1 connections although I'm going to assume wherever they are they'll be a PITA to get to.

 

As noted back on pg 1, IE1 and IJ1 are behind glove compartment by the ECU.
Hopefully it helps you got it out of the cold in your garage.

 

Thanks for that, knew I'd seen it along the line but must've glassed past it.

Regardless, i don't know if its the best or worst case scenario but now the truck fires up and runs fine....

I disconnected the battery while checking some connections and removing some loom around the main harness. Upon reconnecting the battery I noticed the check engine and AT light were back. Still no start no click. Then I had the wife come out to turn the key while i rechecked START power to fuse and planned to trace to BLACK wire exiting fuse box but the damn thing cranked briefly but no start. I jump in and turn key and nothing.

So i rechecked power to fuse and relay. Now have power to STA relay. Put relay back in, truck fires up. let it idle for a while and getting no codes.

Turned it off and restarted it 4 times and it seems to be running fine again. Extremely frustrating and have zero trust this isn't gonna leave me stranded again.

I know the command start is the prime suspect, but if it was the culprit why did the truck maintain power to the STA fuse the whole time? It was also disconnected, so i'm not sure how it would prevent the truck from starting.

I'm worried theres a cracked or shorted wire under the fuse block or in the wiring harness.

 

Not gonna lie to you - this definitely does happen.

One case inside the engine bay fusebox: https://www.tundras.com/threads/charging-alternator-problems.97131/#post-2469357

Another case inside a harness/loom: https://www.tundras.com/threads/crank-no-start-diagnosing-and-solving.146559/

I wish I could find the other one where the poster found the owner hacked in a splice on the main line from batt to alternator, and that was touching the frame. The results were not at all what I'd have expected!

 

Dang those are some tough finds! Just never know what the heck the PO did, or had done, I guess but we sure pay for it. I saw another thread where the guy found a broken wire in the loom above the transmission…better go buy a lottery ticket after that find! I’m half assed wondering if I should try to replace the harness in the engine bay but that opens a whole new can of worms.

Regardless, huge thanks to you and @BubbaW for all the diagrams and help through this hair pulling experience. I wouldn’t have even known where or how to trace any of the starting sequence. I’ll be sure to post back if I find anything.