OFFICIAL: MY22+ Toyota Tundra - Throttle Lag/Hesitation From Stop Issue(s) - T-SB-0111-22

I started getting long throttle hesitations again... Very upset...
Yesterday I got over a second long and today I got 2 longs...

Its back to what it was if not worst... It is something with transmission learning..

The scenario is always the same - rolling stop.. Could be very dangerous if you need to accelerate in to the traffic quickly.

 

rlc177 - do you think something like a gas pedal commander will help to solve the issue?

 

Do you think anything else can be beneficial (something that can improve constant response through gas pedal)?

 

I haven't had any long delays and what delay's I've felt have been in the 300ms range. Did anything change recently such as a cold or warm snap that could suggest a temperature related thing? A more frequent problem might have a silver lining that it may wind up being more replicable for the dealer service tech.

I'd try to jot down as many factors you can remember when it happened, the temperature, the speed, the timing etc just to help see if you can replicate it more.

A throttle controller only helps in situations where you CONSTITENTLY feel like you NEED to press the PEDAL FURTHER than you THINK YOU SHOULD.

Toyota kind of got married to this Torque Demand control logic that leaves the driver very disconnected from the engine and if it doesn't drive right you basically get stuck with it unless Toyota release a refinement or a 3rd party tune comes out.

 

I am going to replace my battery. because it is always charging... Toyota did a test and told me that it is "good".. Maybe you are right, and it is related to the battery being low.. Not enough juice for electronics to work properly..

Costco has Energizer AGM 24F (the biggest they have) for 270$ Canadian..

 

The throttle response (or lack thereof) is the slowest of any vehicle I've ever owned by a wide margin. The latency from the time I push the pedal to the time the truck responds is just shocking.

I was taking a left today, normal gap in traffic, proceeded to take the left turn into a shopping center... But that normal gap became an uncomfortably small gap in traffic after the truck sat motionless for what felt like almost a second... I panicked and started to let off the gas pedal and not go, but that was about the time the truck registered/responded to me pushing the gas pedal. So then I'm pushing the pedal harder to hurry, luckily the delay was quite as bad after repressing the gas. But what should've been an uneventful turn into a shopping center became a scary encounter of a car getting uncomfortably close. Close enough I was surprised they didn't honk at me.

I'm aware of this issue and that still happened today... After years of driving, it's hard to actively remember this when performing a mundane maneuver like pulling into a shopping center.

Really wish I would've noticed this on my test drive. I for sure didn't ever have to take a left on the test drive. It was a loop of 4 right turns. I guess it's on me for not being more thorough. Probably wouldn't have decided to go with a tundra to be honest. I really hope they do something to improve it.

 

Ok, new AGM Energizer from Costco is in.
Group 24F-AGM Item # 1226340

I even charged it with my Norco charger (AGM setting) before putting it in. It did not perfectly fit in, but all in all it sits there very tight and cables did not need extension. However, original front battery metal holder does not fit in. But the main top metal bracket fits in and snags the battery very tight. I am not worried.

Funny fact, the transmission TCU did flushed its memory. I think the total time the power was off was close to 10 min. Shifting is definitely back to original and is relearning. As usual, fuel consumption has improved after TCU flush and dropped back to 19ish MPG in the city (12L/100km).

Now I will keep you posted if anything changes. We have a wave of cold weather and start/stop did not work (still telling me the battery is charging).
Tomorrow I am driving my daughter downtown and will take the truck to see how it performs for a 2 hr drive.

 

The factory battery size is
H7 / LN4 / 94R

 

This SAME thing has happened to me multiple times. One time the truck started to go and then SLAMMED on the brakes due to a speeding car coming from the left. I wonder when the truck hesitates if it's trying to calculate the speed of the traffic coming from either the left or right and just freezes for a second???

 

2022 SR5 4x4 acceleration hesitation fixed.
Added Auto Start Stop Eliminator which I love but dislike the light on the dash is still on. Used OBD Link MX+ and Carista app to turn off seat belt chime, adjust A/C and long press to roll all windows down. After the changes were saved I ran the Diagnostic test and had 8 faults, most were sensors and one auto start fault. After resetting all faults the truck has been running for a week without once having acceleration hesitation. Ran another diagnostic test today with no faults. Looks like a software incompatible issue with auto start and front/all sensors. Would love to see if someone could replicate the procedure.

 

Keg Dog can you please elaborate more on the start stop eliminator? Which one did you get and how does it work?

 

Just another thought. If AutoStartStop eliminator fixes the problem, so we should be able to do the same thing with pressing the button on our dash?

 

A lot of trucks will have fault codes in the computers from when the factory built the truck or the last time the battery was pulled. Dealers are supposed to clear all the fault codes as part of PDI but a lot don't bother as no error lights are on for the owner.

Without actually saving the report of the exact codes we can't look at any of them too see what they might have been.

I've defiantly replicated dead pedal delays with auto stop and start disabled. I don't think its in any way the root of the problem, however if people find their truck drives better with the feature off that's fine and dandy.

 

Thank you @rlc177 for the incredible data you have shared. I and the forum benefit greatly from your insight in addition to that of @ryanwgregg. I also have the dash cam and wondering whether voltage may be a factor. I will disable the parking mode.

You also mentioned battery swap to an AGM H7 battery higher rated than the EFB. Are you referring to a swap of the primary truck battery? In the past on my 4runner and Sequoia I have run Odyssey AGM batteries and these worked well for me. What size battery does the 3rd gen Tundra take, have you swapped yours and what brand do you recommend? Thanks for your thoughts.

I contacted my dealer to have the 24TA02 neutral transmission recall and TCU calibration, along with my 23TA09 risk of fire remedy completed in the same visit. I was told that “Let me check into this and make sure we have all parts available, one moment. “Thanks for your patience! It looks like those 2 recalls do not have a remedy for them yet”.

I replied: “24TA02 is just a reprogram”. Their reply: “I believe they haven't released the software for the recall yet”. This was last week Thursday. Can’t believe this is accurate. Are we also all still waiting on the permanent fix for the risk of fire recall? Insane this isn’t ready yet if so.

re Odyssey here is what their site shows as compatible. They are listed as 24F, this doesn’t align with the size you listed (just saw your latest battery post!) of H7/LN4/94R

just saw they do carry an H7/Ln4/94R. https://www.odysseybattery.com/products/odp-agm94r-h7-l4-battery-94r-850/

 

AGM in engine compartment does not last lost. AGM does not like to be in heat.

 

As stated the Size of the Battery is H7 / LN4 / 94R.

Since swapping the battery I have a noticeable improvement in stop start performance (Engine not restarting after a few seconds for "battery charging") when it decides to stop the engine it doesn't restart until I go. The only think I have a scantool to reset the integrated current sensor value after swapping the battery. I'm not sure how important that step is. Thats really the only thing I really was experimenting with other batteries for.

The information they told you is not correct the software update is available. If the front door is giving you trouble, try an online schedule since the online systems tend to force the recalls to be added to the service ticket, or wait until there is some other thing you can address.

 

Another thing is I park my truck in a Metal Pole barn with very crappy cell service inside due to the metal. Since the subscriptions expired I think the Data Commination Module is not as active and that was running my battery critically low along with the dash cam in parking mode.

The specifics that lead me to swapping the battery were.

Poor Aftermarket Running board performance after sitting.
Stop and Start restarting automatically after only 2-3 seconds of off time.
I/M monitors constantly going back to "incomplete" status
Low State of Charge on the battery after sitting for a week.

I do think in specific situations the Battery Management on the Truck allows the battery to get into some lower states of charge.

I want to be clear that I don't recommend anyone swapping the battery and I'm just doing a longer term test based on the issues observed above. Primary I didn't want to rack up hours of tech diagnosis time to determine that problems may be after market equipment I have added to the truck.

If you suspect battery problems I think the best course is actually to replace with a EFB with higher specs although right now on the market EFB's are not as widely available.

 

A word of caution for AGM batteries in 2022+ tundras.
As I have mentioned earlier in this thread, a week ago I swapped my original Toyota 1.5 year old battery with Costco AGM. Immediately after putting it in something on the driver side of the engine compartment started making buzzing noise for few min. Then stopped. Every time I drive it does that noise again after turning the truck off. I was worried that this could be due to higher voltage in AGM battery.

Yesterday I put the original battery back inside. The noise stopped. But the buttery voltage indicator on the dash dropped to very low again and like rlc177 mentioned, I only get seconds of start/stop due to low voltage.
Last time I spoke to dealer they told me battery passed the test. But my start stop does not work.

Now I have a dilemma. I want a bigger battery, but I am afraid of the noises from one of the electronic systems under the hood not being able to sustain higher voltage (maybe).

 

If you take apart a random electronic module you'll likely find its circuit protection rates to something like +/- 30 V.

I think with the new battery something in the truck finally has some juice to run as designed.

 

There's a chirp like a cricket that comes from the ABS module, and that seems normal to me. My truck has always done that, after a few minutes it stops. That happens regardless of what battery is used. I wouldn't use a battery that doesn't fit into the brackets of the battery holder though.

 

This was frustrating for me several months ago. My dealer was telling me about the same thing. Yet, I finally got some updates done last week.

 

This is news to me.

 

VRLA thermal runaway.

AGM battery lasted 11 years in my Volvo, which has battery in trunk.

 

The AGM in my Camry had been under the hood for 7 years.

Flooded batteries don't like heat either.

 

Hey RLC177 + et al. Update for you. I traded in my 23 Limited for a 24 Platinum with the goal of less rattles and a fresh start. Not too many rattles due to the leather wrapped interior. I expected the transmission lag to have been fixed but that only lasted about 700 miles and its back. Honestly its just the sloppiness of the transmission. The whole not shifting until 2500+ RPM's makes this truck jumpy, sluggish and just crappy to drive.

That said, I wanted to fun a few observations by you all.
- Ive noticed that the transmission behaves semi normally at higher speeds.
- Lower speeds its super sloppy.
- I keep reading about the transmission not dropping gears at lowers speeds and RPM's. This is proving true for me, the truck almost NEVER starts in a lower gear than 4th; checked by jumping to manual mode to see what gear it's in. Always 4th or above. Is it safe to assume this is why its so sluggish? If i manually drop it to 2nd it comes back to life and pretty smooth as well.
- As for what's causing it, I'm still convinced its the transmission logic and should be a fairly simple fix. Anyone else have any details on the transmission not dropping gears?
- The other consideration which I cant quantify is the "memory" or "learning" that these engines and transmissions are supposed to have. For both of these trucks I purchased from a dealer about 500 miles away and I did NOT baby the truck on the way home. Dealer said no break in required. Is it possible that both of these return trips with both trucks may have given inaccurate info on the learning front? My average speed was probably 75-80 with a lot of passing which resulted in some higher speeds. Otherwise it was just cruise set to 75/80. What do we think?

Thanks again everyone. We'll get this solved one way or another.

 

what drive mode are you in?

I don't feel any sloppiness of this trans so Im trying to figure out what you mean?

one thing I do notice, it takes a while to warm up and doesn't operate all the way nicely until it does , I have the dash set to tow gauges

 

With all that info you provided in response I'm certain you know what you're talking about. Anything meaningful to add to this discussion? If not I'll wait for those that are legitimately trying to solve some problems.

 

are you talking to me?

use the quote thing so we know who your talking to.

 

Dropping into S mode will always put you in S4 unless you are going to fast for 4th, and then it will go into S5+

However once in S Mode you can drop gears down and it will beep at the lowest allowed gear due to speed.

 

Interesting, I'll have to switch to tow gauges and give that a whirl.

The best way I can explain the sloppiness is that there's this lag from a stop, when you accelerate the rpm's climb but the truck doesnt want to engage until about 2500-2800 rpm at which point it comes alive. It feels like a manual transmission when you're starting out in too high of a gear and the vehicle struggles until the RPM's are high enough. Almost like clutch slippage which clearly I know it isnt.

I guess I'd like to know if there's a better way to see which gear the truck is in if shifting to manual isnt a good way to get that info. I typically drive in normal.

Thanks,
Shaun