Parts absurdities

I think it's the latch, but other members (most notably for me is @The Black Mamba) have found that simply wrapping electrical tape a couple layers deep on the top loop fixed his access cab door squeaks. Sounds like a similar solution to yours.

 

I wonder if giving them a good soak in silicon spray would help as well. Maybe hit them with brake cleaner first. It's possible they are just gummed up. Probably should have tried that first, but they were driving me nuts.

 

Definitely try cleaning/degreasing first before buying new ones. Before I did a deep clean/lube on mine I sprayed them with grease and it worked for a couple days but it gummed them up and it made the issue even worse. I can't remember what lube I used but it was super light, like WD40 or something.

 

If clearing out old grease is what you need to do, PB Blaster or Kroil will liquiefy old crusty grease fast as hell. Admittedly, PB blaster smells like absolute shit for days/weeks/months after. Not saying Kroil is any better, but ...

 

And the bad part is, they seem to be having problems with the adhesive lately. I'm about To make another attempt to install new ones on mine. 1st 2 tries by the paint and body I used failed

 

are you guys talking about this one where the OEM version has a interior colored flap to cover up the joints of the door interior?



I got aftermarket for cheap that snapped right in. It said it was for my truck, but it was too long however I cut a piece out and it snaps perfectly in place

I'm wondering if I could use the 3M black super weatherstrip and gasket adhesive to attach the colored portion to the new strip. I saw a YouTube of an older guy swearing by this stuff. He was restoring an old car interior IIRC and just used a half piece of trim and the 3M black held. It was an outer piece that had torn away from the part that was still installed on the car. The only thing holding it was the adhesive I wish I could find that video but here's another video on it

https://youtu.be/xuKogFaQbNE?si=ObyRJv8bnCKbrA0s

 

In AC it's this one, it's huge and wraps around the whole cab opening. This is just the forward half, and there is no colored trim like you DC guys have.

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Mine wraps all the way around too
then there's another one on the door that is U-shaped and on the lower portion of the door

I guess my point is my inexpensive aftermarket seemed to be good quality. Granted it is not formed or molded for my door like OEM but it still snapped in place even in the sharpest turn/corner I could probably put some heat on it as well to help it out a little

 

I have no doubt someone out there makes one that'll fit. I may need to get a profile shot of mine with some measurements and pass it around to a few places, see if any seal makers recognize it. I know @Tundra2 makes some seals at his workplace, just dunno if any would be compatible. And I'm sure that door seal is probably a good 12ft long for the AC trucks.

Hell, it's possible something like this would even work: https://www.autozone.com/sealants-g...-10ft-dual-durometer-weatherstrip/1219181_0_0

Supposedly this will work also, and only a buck a foot: https://www.ebay.com/itm/186635274205

This is supposedly an exact replacement, and for AC trucks, it is for both sides, I may order for shits and giggles. Summit and RA both sell it: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fcd-kt3018

Both of those first two options (but not the Summit/RA option) appear to lack a little extra squeeguee-style extension on the bulb that's on the OEM seal, it seals the outer edge of the seal like so, so it's not exactly identical:

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The Fairchild one seems to work ok. It’s better than a torn one. Ya gotta give yourself some time and go slow installing it to get a good fit. Press that sleeve all the way down.

 

I just want to see the profile of the thing. One 5-star review on Summit Racing's website is all I have to go on, and that person says the gasket is "4 inches to long, had to return it". Aside from the homophonic grammatical error, not super helpful. 5 stars but you had to return b/c too long? Don't you cut it to length?!

 

Some people are as bright as a blown light bulb.

 

@shifty` it fits fine, no cutting, it’s one big piece. The trick is to fully seat it in the channel. If you don’t do that, then it appears too long. Same outcome would happen with the factory one as well if installed incorrectly.

 

Wait, you’ve used it? If yes, the mould is identical?

 

Yeah, mine was a complete circle. I had to cut maybe 4 feet off. It snapped in so snug it's irrelevant. I just put the same inside the driver's door jam near the door brake

and you can use that 3M black adhesive if you really wanted to make it one piece again. that stuff is strong

 

Ok yeah, I think I see the little squeegee flap here eh? And this is the Fairchild seal?

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yes, it was a little more than I remembered. It ended up being about $61 with shipping and tax from Summit racing.



it's not molded for the doors. But it went in very easily. And most of the turns were not sharp this is the only one by the driver head on pillar B and it still snapped easily in place

 

Looks like it's running around $80 for driver and passenger right now, part number is KT3018 instead of T3018.

I'm adding it to the list. I've been wanting to replace seals for a minute now. Got bigger fish to fry right now though.

 

It's amazing how easy this was. I probably took my old one out and put the new one in and about five minutes. Plus whatever time it took to make sure I cut it the right length I tried to make it a little long.

 

It's more about the $$ than the time. Still haven't found a new gig. I'm still not hurting on cash yet, but probably will be getting thin by Feb/Mar.

Granted, $71 for both sides at RA before 5% discount, but also before tax/shipping. If I've got it in my PayPal account, maybe I'll drop the cash on it.

 

It sounds like you used the AC weather strip on the DC front doors (hence the 4 feet too long). Since the color molded flap is removed with the original weather strip, how does it look on the inside along the A and B pillars and along the top? Did you use this same weatherstrip for the rear doors as well?

 

@shifty` you can see how it fits in these photos. The slightly wrinkled lower area is where I goofed and didn’t set it all the way in the channel. No cutting was needed.

 

Could always go used from a wrecker or part out. That's what I did with my old AC. Cost $35 for new stripping that was molded to fit and didn't have holes.

 

I just got the fairchild window belt molding for my DC and got those installed. Front and rear fit well and seem to be good quality. Looks way better than the peeling, faded, and broken ones that were on there.

 

Dealership quoted me $15 each for lug nuts. NAPA was $12 each. I bought a full set off Amazon for $60.

 

I believe so. All i saw was extended cab which can be double cab or access cab, depending on which website you're on

But it works fine

B pillar is fine. A pillar has a good sized gap. You can see it in that picture I posted above

 

I bought that tailgate protector from the junkyard for $9 last week lol. Dealer price is outrageous

 

For me, it was the $42.41 for an OEM gas cap.

Finally got the "check engine" light to stay off, but really the only thing wrong was the O-ring on the original gas cap was cracked.
So, $42.41, because I couldn't find a 99 cent O-ring that would work.

 

https://www.theoringstore.com/

 

Good Lord....how would you even begin to identify the size and material/ composition/ compatibility for any given application in our trucks. Do we have a resident expert to lean on?

I can't keep up with all the "projects" in the queue that I am working on to incorporate that task into the learning curve...lol