RainMan's 2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro Build

Factory USB-C port OPTION 1 (2020 / 2021 trucks only)
Toyota part number 85532-08040 is a unit with one USB-A / one USB-C.
The back of this particular unit has the exact same connector socket as the dual USB-A connector that comes in our trucks from the factory (connector part number is 90980-12D25 if you want to know). Bought this one on ebay for $25 (used). Note the little flap covers are NOT spring loaded like the original USB-A ones - they stay up like the CarPlay port does.

It is a quick process to pop out the lower dash area, pop out the old unit, plug in the new unit, and put the dash piece back in. Confirmed that both ports provide power (don’t expect 45W PD here, but it is at least decent standard charging speed - should be ~25W).


Factory USB-C port OPTION 2 (2020 / 2021 trucks only)
Toyota part number 85532-0E100 is a unit with two USB-C.
The back of this unit does NOT directly match up with the connector in the truck wiring harness. Instead, it requires a grey connector (part number 90980-12B59), which the Toyota Parts place I ordered from told me the one I bought was the only one in their system in the US…
If you can score the connector, then you will need to de-terminate the one in the truck and plug in the new one to the two terminals (both connectors use the same terminals - they are just a mirror image of each other).
Otherwise, you could try modifying the connector on the wiring harness or the port on the new socket so that it fits.







And here is a view of the two connector sockets side-by-side. Black (right) is the factory socket while grey (left) is this new socket.

 

Some goodies arrived from @memario1214 today

 

LFG…Team Baja Designs!

 

If only they’d sponsor an onx6 for my roof rack…

 

if only they’d sponsor any of us plebes…

 

I know, right?!

 

There was a 50” 6plus for 500 bucks a few weeks ago. Was first in line when it popped up at 7pm and had to choose between a great deal w/ a spousal fight or no light bar and I get to sleep in my bed. I don’t drive at night really so I chose my bed. Kinda kicking myself in hindsight as I coulda scored the deal for someone on here.


I’ll keep my eyes peeled for ya

 

Any chance of making the USB covers spring-loaded using springs from the old ones?

 

Not unlike eyeballing bronze BBS heritage wheels

 

@AZBoatHauler LC has been in your dreams, hasn’t it.

 

I don’t really think so. The lids/hinges are designed differently with a recess and stuff for the spring and a rubber “stop” over the port to make it not bang closed vs a friction hinge and a snap that holds the lid fully closed.

Personally, I like that they don’t spring closed while I’m trying to plug in the cord.

 

This was one of me and my buddies favorite lines to quote after saying something outlandish, another common theme was, “if I pushed you off this cliff into a bunch of jumping cholla, would you still be my friend?”

 

Updated this post with the second option for factory USB-C charging port.

Currently, I’m sticking with option 1 because it’s kind of nice to have both options without having someone plug into my CarPlay port for USB-A charging. I may change my mind though…

 

Spent some time today prepping some lights. I prefer the Sumitomo connectors that Toyota uses over the style BD uses, so I cut off their factory connectors and put these ones on.

Gotta get some different hardware for installing the chase lights to my rack (the S2 brackets have a 3/8" bolt hole in them, but the t-nuts for the rack cross bars can only be gotten in 1/4"). Going to look at some different hardware for the ditch light mounting as well.

 

I really curious to see how those squadron lights mount up. Can't remember if you still have OEM front bumper or not, but when I've looked at the the BD website for those squadron driving lights, it looks like they still use the same mounting to plastic bezels, which is a no go for me. Hard to tell from webpage instruction pics.

I currently have the OEM rigid driving lights cable tied to stop from shaking so bad.

 

Small steps on the comms installation as well. I'm going to dedicate this post to the antennas, while the previous post will be focused on the actual radio install.

The plan is to mount two NMO antenna bases to the Sherpa rack and combine them via a duplexer to route a single coax into the radio.

Antennas:
Rugged Radio Stealth GP VHF
Rugged Radio Stealth GP UHF

Mounts & Wiring:
Larson NMOKHFUD (x2) these have 17' of RG58 coax attached to each one
Larson TMB34B angle brackets (x2)
Larson NMOCAPB rain caps (x2) (we'll see how much I use these)
Amphenol UHF Male Crimp Connectors (4 pack)
Coax Seal
8020 10-series Stainless 10-32 Roll-in T-Nut with Ball Spring (PN 3669)

Duplexer:
Comet CF-4160 J (UHF Female connectors on all three connections)

There will also be various wire routing appurtenances as this progresses.

As part of the process, I was trying to find the ideal method for running the coax from the roof rack and also where to mount the duplexer. Ideally, I want to run a single line down from the roof to make it easier to conceal and one less thing through the firewall. I looked at weatherproof enclosures that I could mount on the rack somewhere and wasn't having a lot of luck finding something that wasn't monstrous in size. So I reached out to Comet directly and asked them about ideas, and their President replied back within an hour and suggested that I could "simply remove the back panel, apply a silicone bead around the edges and the screw holes, and seal the connectors with coax seal or similar." He followed up stating to check it every so often to ensure it is sealed, but that Motorola has hundreds of them sealed the same way in use without issues.

So I pulled the five screws from the back plate and applied a liberal amount of black silicone RTV to the edge and screw holes and mounted the plate back down. I also plan on trimming a piece of ABS sheet and sealing it to the back of the Comet in a "sandwich" when I bolt the Comet to the underside of my rack crossbar.


Today I made up a secondary back plate for the duplexer out of 1/8” thick ABS and sealed it to the back of the duplexer using a bunch more RTV. Currently it’s being held on with a couple machine screws while the silicone cures.



More to come...

 

couldn't have just used the BPD mount and NMO to SO-239 adapters to remote mount your antenna's to the rack?

 

Casey right now:

 

True
But that also makes the BDP TBL the equivalent of a $500 cable grommet.

It’s gonna look very nice on Cruzer’s DCSB build, and those funds got me ditch and chase lights.

 

JSON sees no issue with this

 

I’m trying to build to JSON spec without spending JSON money. It’s not easy…

 

Hit a Yahtzee on the ODO while driving into town today.

Also swapped out the S2 reverse light lenses for work/scene pattern.

 

I had to play that on my 6’s to get the bonus points.

 

damn Casey you have some miles on your 21.... Almost double mine. I took my 21 home on 26 Oct 2020...

 

It was either 10/28/20 or 10/29 when I drove mine home.

 

Yeah I just hit the 66666 mark on my 2016 a few weeks ago haha

 

@RainMan_PNW - do you have the first one working in your vehicle? I'm not so worried about charging speed...but if it works, hooray!

 

cool....