Review- TRD Rear Sway Bar- before and after

I've added the front sway bar in addtion to the RSB. It makes about 20% difference, the rear one made a huge improvement.

 

I am planning on doing the rear sway bar next month (Sept). Should I also change the front to a TRD as well???
A little background
I dont do any towing or hauling
Off roading limited to beaches here on Long Island
Basically the truck is a pavement princess
I do plan on adding a Magnuson supercharger in the spring of 22.
Any advice is appreciated.

 

Will this TRD Rear Sway Bar still go on my truck? I have Alcan spings with a 1' lift built in, and Alcan shackles set to lift the truck 1", so a 2" lift in the rear. Any length problems?

 

Should not have an issue. You could get a little more length out of it if you put the brackets 90 degrees up.

 

Thanks! Has anyone here tried running the rear sway bar only and seeing how it runs? (No front sway bar)

 

I have 6112s with 2.5" lift in the front Toyrec shackles set on the 1" setting with no issues..

 

I havent done it in the Tundra, but not having a front sway bar in other trucks that ive had was a downright scary experience lol, multiplied exponentially if you have a lift.

 

Not sure about your Alcans, but I bet they’re somewhat similar to my Deaver U748s. My rear sway bar would not fit with it mounted beneath the axle. The links needed to be extended if it was gonna stay that way. The fix was to simply mount the bar behind the axle. I also attached the links to the next hole back on the frame. Easiest retrofit in the world if it doesn’t work with your springs.


Plus side is a bit more clearance now without the bar being lower than the axle housing.

 

I’ve had no front sway bar for a few years. I installed the TRD rear and it handled good.

However, since adding the supercharger I often find my self doing 85+ mph and it is not stable at those speeds. I just put the front bar back on last weekend and all the threads in the frame and control arms were rusted. It was a disaster install. I tapped out the 4 frame bolt holes but did not have a tap for the larger bolt size in the control arms. Ended up breaking the welded nut inside 1 control arm and wasn’t able to tighten either bolt. Long story short, I’ll be replacing the lower control arms at some point.

 

You have my luck! Let me know if it’s any more stable at high speeds with the front sway bar, that is, if you can get it on anyway

 

It’s back on but the end links are not bolted tight to the control arms.

And it does handle better at high speeds, no more side to side swaying going on (go figure).

 

Thanks! I'm looking for this exact info. I'm not a speed demon, I take my time in 65mph + places, usually because I'm towing 5k trailer.

I had a 99 4runner with front removed and rear beefed up, it was amazing offroad, little top heavy on road but my natural self just went slower... I've been thinking this Same setup on tundra would be great...

I'll be going 5.29 gears soon, basically making 6th gear run like current 5th (34 inch tires), but when I pull the sway bar, I'll make sure to put the bolts back in.


The only question I have now is who makes the strongest/thickest rear sway bar?

 

Yes.

I did the rear 1st...it works well.

then I did the front...it works well.

and...you will need traction bars as well. I use Caltracs. https://calvertracing.com/product/8110-caltracs/

the S/C will cause wheel hop when you do what you will do when you have a S/C.

 

My opinion, leave the front sway in unless you’re rock crawling.

 

Sway bar hitches for campers are extras you can get for your car. It will, however, make driving a lot more comfortable. A sway bar will aid in regaining weight and balance for simple driving. The apparatus will reduce the movement.

 

Does anyone know where you can get the factory lube for the two bushings that comes in the complete TRD kit from Mama Toyota??

After 4+ years of installation I think I want to refresh the lube in there.

Or I might consider some Loctite anti-seize.

What has anyone else done to refresh those bushings???

 

A good moly lube should work. I use Lucas red and tacky.

 

Silicone grease such as Super Lube is usually put on suspension bushings.

 

Installed RSB and it took less than 1/2 hour. Simple installation and detailed instructions. After a short test drive (no high speeds yet) I noticed it alleviated the roll sensation on turns. Hoping this helps out at highway speeds on windy days. NOTE: Ensure you torque all bolts to spec

UPDATE: April 08, 2023
Drove over 100 miles at highway speeds (In NJ that is 80mph) and she handles so much better. Nice smooth ride with little to no sway during lane changes. The gust of wind movement that I can normally feel has diminished (albeit we only had winds in the 30mph range yesterday). The biggest difference is on exit ramps with loops, the truck hugs the roadway and tracks excellently.

I'm sorry I waited this long to do this upgrade. Definitely has better bang for the buck than the CAI or Bullydog GT tuner and a close second to the upgraded exhaust. In my opinion... if you're, not an off-roader, this is a must-have upgrade.

 

Late to the thread but I have this setup and the RSB went on without issue.

 

I'm going back and forth on whether to add this to my truck. I'm on bad dirt roads hunting or camping about 50ish days a year in Montana. I'm not trying to rock crawl or doing anything wild. I do hit big pot holes unintentionally occasionally and will go over largish rocks occasionally. Most of my time is spent on logging roads that aren't well maintained. I can see the upside of adding these for the 300 days a year i'm not on dirt roads, but will they significantly impact the trucks performance on relatively unmaintained backcountry roads? thanks

 

Get some quick disconnects for the linkages and you'll enjoy it when you need it.

 

I can find quick disconnects for Jeeps but nothing tundra specific? Do I need to find the rear sway bar link length and then find something that works?

 

I scanned through this two-page thread but didn't see any answers to your question. I have a 2011 Limited Sequoia. With independent rear suspension (unlike the rigid straight axle on the Tundras), the Sequoia already has front and rear sway bars. At least mine does

 

So i ended up going with the sway bar link. Ultimately the articulation needed without the sway bark link in the rear is so fringe case that the need for quick disconnects didn't make sense. With that said the lean is still not great even with the rear sway bar links. I think i will plan to upgrade leaf springs in near future. thanks

 

Just got my sway bar kit in.

Anyone else get the mounting hardware powder coated? The thought of the gold hardware makes me cringe.

I'll be giving a few places a call tomorrow to get them painted black.

 

Say it with love; say it with Krylon…

 

Added one to my ride just last weekend. Great upgrade.

 

I used Krylon. works fine.

 

Where's the best deal to get the TRD rear sway bar?

The link in the first post is $350...