Skunkworks DCSB

Seems like that wouldn't be too hard to duplicate with some 3/16 plate and the tube you posted. Is the frame boxed on the back side of that one?

 

Yeah I would buy that. Maybe replacing the factory rivets with a combination of bolts and welds would kelp keep everything tight

 

Not boxed in, yet.
I don't have your skills Dave! Not too hard for you is nearly impossible for me

 

I am planning to weld the hanger to the frame.

 

lol I'm flattered, but if you can cut your frame in half, cutting out some pieces to make a mount should be no problem

 

Stick to a design more like the CM if you can. Keep those separate. Attaching the cab mount to the spring mount is now transferring everything to the frame through the spring mount rivets.

OR pull the spring mount, weld the cab mount to the frame, cut out the location of the cab mount from the spring mount, then mount the spring mount back in place welding it to the frame and the cab mount. Stuff the bolt holes with rod that just fits through the holes and plug weld them (standard bolts won’t transfer load like the rivets do)

 

Took the driveshaft to get shortened by 12”. Guys at the shop were concerned it’s going to cause a problem with shaking since the first half of the shaft is a lot smaller than the last half - supposed to be equal length. They had to call the OG (dad) and he said it’ll be fine. $450 for a temporary driveshaft, oh well.

 

You gonna go to a 1 piece?

 

I asked the shop if I should. They said no because for that length it would need to be a wider diameter shaft, which will have to be aluminum. Not doing aluminum cuz that’ll get beat up real quick.

 

Is it me or do these universal body mounts look kinda small? Should I look for something bigger? Not that I want the cab to roll more than it already does.

 

I think they look alright. I just looked up the DRT fabrication cab mount relocations that you had been scoping out, and it looks like they actually use energy suspensions cab mount bushings (see below snip from the product description). If it works for that kit, it should be plenty for your application!

 

Wow, just wow. This is unreal to me.

 

That’s where I got the idea from

 

Today was mess around with Plasma day but first I had to fill in my jig so that it has a solid edge all the way through.

Got a copper back plate



Filled and grinded it



Next I finally unboxed the plasma cutter and placed it on my welding cart



Had to drill a hole to get the airline in



I clamped the jig onto the frame and realized I needed to start at the edge first but there's no guide on that side



So I flipped it over



Once I cut through I flipped it back. Not the prettiest looking cut



I realized if I cut all the way through that hot piece of steel was going to fall on me, so I stopped



This test was enough for to learn that the gap on the inside corner of the jig was big enough for the plasma cutter guide to fall into that resulted in a crooked cut (among other things). I'll need to fill that in.







Also, having to flip the jig over to the back side was not really a good solution because there was a big gap that allowed the plasma guide to fall into as well. I think I'll make a jig for the back side.



Although the plasma cutter went through the frame like butter I'm not a real fan of having to clean up that edge. The sawzall was definitely a cleaner cut.

 

Looks about the same size as what comes with DRT mounts

 

Sawzall is what I used when I made a trailer out of a tundra frame. Fast and clean

 

So it looks like the ID of the tube should be 2"

 

Saving money where I can

 

“Coming up next on FabRats, we explore Skunkworks garage..”

 

Badass brother!

 

Looks more like 2.6” ID for mine, and my bushings fill that thing in

 

So it is a 3” OD 3/16 wall. I guess I’ll use the other one for practice

 

DCSB love courtesy of SDHQ. I think they've done a few! Definitely cool and probably much better off-road

 

Why not cut an equal amount from both ends then?

 

Are you thegame from Tacomaworld?

 

Yup! I've got this picture on my phone.

 

As the back half shaft gets shorter the quicker it reaches steeper angles where it will just bind up.

 

So there is no correct answer to modify the existing driveshaft. Only compromises?

 

Watched an episode of Texas Metal last night where they didn't do such a good job doing a parallel 4 link. The top links where considerably shorter than the lower links. But anyways, one of the reasons they 4 linked it was to reduce some weight by getting rid of the leaf springs.


I do want to lose some weight (personally and on the truck) but I'd rather do a triangulated 4 link.

Yup. When I eventually get my Atlas TC installed I'll probably have to shorten it again by 4 or so inches.