Stillen Intake folks...where you at? TP403210 TP403211

got mine a few days ago with a note that supplemental hardware and/or fasteners were being shipped fed-ex some kind of found a small issue didn't catch it before we shipped yours thing...I haven't unboxed yet I'll post when I do

 

Ok so I have one of the two aforementioned problems. I think the box not locking is mainly due to the noticeable dimensional differences in the tabs that rock into the stock lower intake half. I cannot, even with excessive force, get the top Stillen intake lid to sit flush with the oem lower so it forces the Stillen box more forward, which is likely why it won’t latch securely. Not only are the Stillen tabs more narrow and taller, they also appear to be sloped differently as well. They should have made their own lower housing IMO and they may have eliminated some of the OE variances. See pics/vid below.

glad I didn’t take my front end off for this….

 

Video, I’ll leave it as unlisted so not to make it a bigger deal than it is but lmk if it shows up

https://youtube.com/shorts/yAAaeOjWn8M?si=4MXRRJ11f_KtAu8b

Definitely the tabs are the issue. I did the same with my OE paper filters since I also upgraded to the TRD ones before this and same issue. Both driver and passenger do it for me as they are pushed up due to the tab height and there’s too much left to right slop with the more narrow (~5mm) Stillen top half

just my non-educated guess and all

 

Meh. Glad I didn't spend my money for this....

 

@Goobax the bolts fit through the adapter plate?

 

Well see if we hear back from Brianna...she was on after I asked to discuss

 

Same here. I mean did they actually measure and test out any of the parts? The tab measurements on those covers aren't even close.

 

Ouch, really? How can it be that sloppy?

Is there any dyno runs to see if it does anything? I was always curious on that

 

yeah. 7/8 holes were no problem but one was a little snug and needed a few turns and then went through. Almost looks like they were threaded at one point then drilled smooth vs machining process that was not bored smooth

 

Your pictures show it all, the tabs are absolutely an issue…. I wonder if the tabs fit in all the way like they’re supposed to if the latch would then work?

I wonder and suppose if a guy could file or grind on the bottom of those tabs (probably not the top since I am guessing they are hollow) if you’d then be able to get a good seal.

But I wonder if that’s even worth it… I haven’t seen the clearance with the coolant tank first hand with mine (never looked at that side) but I don’t know if that’s a deal breaker or not.

I def don’t want to go grinding on shit and lose my ability to return it, which is something I am seriously considering doing… (returning).

 

Hey @eddiefromcali I'm here! Sorry that I didn't see your message until this morning for some reason. I'll message you right now.

I've been reading all the comments on this thread and relaying them to management/R&D so we can present you guys with the best solution. Thank you all for being so detailed! Our main product development guy is out of office until Monday, but I will be discussing all of your feedback with him then and will report back ASAP.

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/0kZqsFIFAvw?si=VhjcOWQBjydWIY4kInstalled passenger side only (started raining) to test the fit and see if my CAI have the same problems like the others. After installing just the top box with the aluminum MAF tube and filter (no silicone tubes), the clip easily comes off like others have shown with little impact. But after installing everything else, the box was solid and stayed clipped after a few hard hits. The holes on the MAF tube were also the right size on mine. Took it for a spin to test it out and ran over a few pot holes at speed and the clip stayed secured. Now to see if the driver side will be the same.

 

Keep us posted

 

@DaveE that's good. Unfortunately, someone did share with me that their passenger side latch had let go after some driving.

Can you comment on the lid to res tank contact?

 

I’ll take a look at it once it stops raining

 

I worked on mine all afternoon here. Try to organize my thoughts here…

- I used an oval shape file and removed a very small amount of plastic on the top side of the female receptacle on the OEM bottom intake box where the tabs insert. This allowed the thicker Stillen tabs to slide deeper in. I don’t know if this is required or not strictly speaking. It doesn’t affect the lockup of the stock box, just gives a little extra clearance for the Stillen tabs.

- I removed the metal locking tabs, and bent them tighter, reinstalled, and that holds the Stillen intake box top on securely.

- my adapter holes did not align and required drilling out.

- the Stillen intake box top and OEM box bottom isn’t remotely close to “sealing”. Yes it’s tight now with what I did as in it will not unlatch, especially with all the tubes connected, but what I mean is the interface between the lower and bottom boxes is sloppy as hell, there’s plenty of gap around the edges.

- the silicon tubes are too damn short for the front air dam connections. They work but only “just”.

I drove it tonight and nothing unsnapped or came loose, it felt and drove great as an initial impression only. It’s not as loud as I hoped haha.

After it’s all done and installed I guess I’m satisfied with the final result? But let’s get freaking serious, all this BS from the install of par for some China crap. It’s like Stillen didn’t even QC inspect these pieces or legit fit them up on an actual truck.

Performs nice, drives better than AFE.
Expected a better made product from USA company.

 

Holy smokes!
Sorry and also sad to read of all of this...
I'm reading this because I have heard good things about Stillen but after reading it, it appears & apparently the intakes were released just a bit early. I'm sure they will figure it out and make good with the people here and elsewhere who purchased them.


With that said, and with the obvious, for one to take the time to bore out the existing holes is one thing but to have the boxes also not lining up and have dust come in, which will sandblast the MAS sensor,build up on the veins of the turbos and will eventually cause cavitation and the amount of debris that does get by will be subjected into the cylinders and remnants ending up in the oil.
Seriously just look at the debris build up with just using shit gas.
The other concern would be off roading, or not, and hitting a deep puddle and one or both take a big slug of water which = bueno.

I'm no engineer with solid actual #'s but that's pretty much the scenario in my mind.

 

@eddiefromcali it’s about 2-3mm from the reservoir, very close. I will watch this closely to make sure it doesn’t damage the tank.
I installed the driver side this evening and the latch on that won’t stay secure with light taps even with everything installed. It seems like the seal and fit on the driver side is better than the passenger side, so the latches don’t close tight. I will try crimping the latches some to see if that will help. I agree with @awpk03s as far as the seal and QC, did not expect this from Stillen. I also agree with the silicone tubes for the ram air that they seem short and the openings are a little big. I wonder if this by design to let water entering the ram air escape?

 

You should all box this shit back up and ship it back to Stillen on their dime. No way I'd install that on my truck - it's not ready for primetime.

 

You're not gonna gonna suck up unfiltered air with these lid issues. The filter is bolted to the lid, and the lid to the couplers...so that scenario is out of the question if your filter is still bolted on.

What can happen is sucking up water from it potentially splashing up into an unlatched lid

 

Is that passenger side maf installed correctly? Thought instructions had you install it "sideways" parallel with the ground.

 

I still put the foam gasket surround I cut out from my paper filters in between the boxes to improve the seal to keep any potential unwanted stuff out.

 

I flipped it after that pic and still the same gap. I was hoping I could get away with it… wanted it uniform (same as driver side), but the wires butt up against the reservoir.

 

Thanks again everyone for your detailed experiences. I will be updating you all today!

Like mentioned above, I think our team simply released these a bit early to meet demand. Our original engineered lids and couplers fit great, but it seems that the dimensions changed a bit during production batch manufacturing. These little differences made a significant impact fitment-wise. We'll resolve it for you all.

 

Thank you for the update. Looking forward to fully resolving this

 

has anyone actually seen a 100 hp and 100 lbs of torque at the wheels gain with the 3 items they discuss here?

seems like a lot

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ULpxWw9xHk

 

Don't think any 3rd party dynos have been performed even with JB4...not that I've seen at least.

100hp gain is not too far off from what other piggybacks claim...stacking gains is where Id call shenanigans though....doesn't always work that way.

 

ok, thats what I thought, long on talk, short on dynos, lol.

 

I tried like hell to find a dyno around me that would take trucks. Not much luck.

the one I did find was basically a three month lead time. Had no idea they were that popular still but imagine not many shops working on trucks outside of the ford raptor/coyote

 

I was able to dyno my wife's 07 camry at Fujita back in the day. Drove down to Temecula, got it on the dyno and did before and after runs. Even after posting the results, people still didn't believe the gains...they claimed the graph or parameters were altered. This was with me being there, seeing the tech do his thing and not touch the computer between runs. There's no winning when it comes to these things and the internet. There's some sandrail dynos out here (Dynapacks), if I ever get it on one, I'll share results.