Switch Pros SP-9100 Install

Yeah, ive read through this thread a couple times. Currently reading instructions that came with it.

 

Would like to know which pic.. One might be a trigger wire...

 

What are all three?

 

Man I have been looking at this setup for a while and I never wanted to pull the trigger cause I only see pictures being installed on 3rd gen tundras didn’t think it would work for 2nd gen and didn’t even know where to put the switch panel. But this was a huge help looks awesome!!!

 

Thanks

 

Where did you guys penetrate the firewall with the switch panel wire loom?

 

I went through where the main harness goes through the firewall(cut a little slit and poked right through) You can try the smaller hole, but I didn't bother. Driver side, ends up coming out inside near the kick panel fuse box. Then just route it accordingly to where you will mount the switch panel.

 

Same as Mark, driver side.

 

That's what I was thinking. I already ran a wire harness for my hood bulge light through there. But with the switch pros harness I wont need it.

Do you guys have any under the hood pictures of how and where you mounted the computer/brain? I have the SDHQ mount and I plan on using it while using a terminal block like Bailey used.

 

I have it mounted here.


I’m planning to move it on to the fuse box cover after I redo my bedcage wires to a mil spec quick disconnect.

I have plans to redo the plate as well so I can add a few more things on, but I’m sure you see where I’m going with it.

Someone on here had a covered terminal block. I can’t seem to find it anymore. Sealed would be nice to have.

 

Very nice. I ordered this block from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MMH1GM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Sub’d For future. I just got a roof rack mounted with 13 rigid pods and it’s powered by an sp-9100. That’s just what the previous guy had so I bought it from him.

Had no idea how complex this thing was so I’m looking forward to learning.

 

Honestly the 9100 is super simple. Using a distribution block makes it easy to change things around. Say you want the rt side bank of lights on switch #2, later it's easy if you change your mind and want to move it to switch #4.

 

So I finally got it hooked up and energized. Yay!!


Word of advice for anyone wanting to do this, invest in some quality wire crimpers!



The wire loom coming out of the hood is for the Baja Designs bar. A 3/4” rubber grommet fits in the hole perfectly and the hood is hollow so running the wires wasn’t difficult. Just need to fish it through with some stiffer wire.

I still have the lower bar wire loom to run to the terminal block and the accessory lights to hook up and just clean up the wiring. I might go back and re-crimp things when I get some real crimpers.

I downloaded the app and got the background color adjusted. Now one final question for you switch pro Pros...

How do I designate which switch to light up which light? Currently I have switch 5 for the 40” bar. I want it on switch 1. How do I do that?

 

Switch 1 is the Brown wire from the SP
2 is red
3 orange
4 yellow
5 green
6 blue
7 violet
8 grey

 

BTW switch 1 is limited to 240 watts. So, be sure your bar can't/ doesn't pull more than 240 watts. If it does and you still HAVE to have it on switch 1 you can use a relay but that kinda defeats the purpose of the SP.

 

I have it wired to sw5 because it can take 30 amps.

Specs on the light:

Specifications:
Lumens: 25,312 Utilizing 32 Cree LEDs
Wattage/Amps: 224W / 16.23A
Dimensions: 40” x 3” x 1.6”


Looks like I can just wire it to Switch 1 like you said.

Now what is the Trigger wire for?

 

Let me know if anyone needs a bracket, I'm making an all aluminum one next.

https://youtu.be/AzfhEQMpZo4

 

So, you could wire it to SW 1 and still have a slight margin for error.

 

What is that bracket used for? I must have missed something. Going back to read

 

It's a bracket for people that don't want to install the switch pros directly to the fuse box cover

 

I made the original for an air compressor bracket but can be used to mount just about anything.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/new-engine-bay-bracket.30658/

 

Thread revival! @Bailey I love your terminal block setup and will be doing the same with the addition of a negative bus since failure to properly ground my lights killed my 8100... Now that I have a fancy new 9100 I plan to rewire everything and make it even cleaner.

First question, why is your ground wire (black) run through the terminal block and then to the battery? Is that necessary or can it be run straight to the negative terminal on the battery?

Second, looking back at the picture showing 2 add-a-fuse into the fuse box, what relay or fuse is being tapped with the (white) wire for lights? Did you do this as well or run it into the cab?

I'm sure there will be more questions to come but you guys have answered most of my questions throughout this thread. Now I just need to locate a solid cover for that blue seas terminal block

 

[QUOTE="TRON, post: 1002773, member: 2398" ]Thread revival! @Bailey I love your terminal block setup and will be doing the same with the addition of a negative bus since failure to properly ground my lights killed my 8100... Now that I have a fancy new 9100 I plan to rewire everything and make it even cleaner.

First question, why is your ground wire (black) run through the terminal block and then to the battery? Is that necessary or can it be run straight to the negative terminal on the battery?

Second, looking back at the picture showing 2 add-a-fuse into the fuse box, what relay or fuse is being tapped with the (white) wire for lights? Did you do this as well or run it into the cab?

I'm sure there will be more questions to come but you guys have answered most of my questions throughout this thread. Now I just need to locate a solid cover for that blue seas terminal block [/QUOTE]
I had to make my own cover for my Blue Sea terminal block. It was actually quite easy, much like working with wood. I used some acrylic and a special glue that I got from the local plastic shop.

 

- It's not necessary to run the Negative wire through the terminal block but I did for easy removal. I can completely disconnect the wires and remove the fuse panel cover if needed. Going directly to the battery would have one more thing to disconnect

- Tapped into the Parking Lights for the White Wire.

 

Right on thanks man!

 

@Bailey great write up and install! Yours looks super clean and well thought out.

I did something similar with my 8100, still have a little cleaning up to do and maybe few small changes. I hate wiring with a passion.

 

Nice and clean for someone who hates wiring.

 

Thanks