The definitive Steering Rack Thread - with solutions - Updated 10/2020 in first post

you can go aftermarket, i prefer toyota parts, especially now that the new rev of the rack has been updated to not have the same issues.i have some other theories around rack seal failure but cant fully prove it yet.

 

I tend to stick with OEM parts on my vehicles. Especially for the important parts

 

I’m noticing a low pitch groaning noise and very slight vibration when turning at low speeds. Seems to be mostly when it is hot. PS reservoir is full. What can I do to determine if it’s the rack beginning to fail or something else?

 

Ugh. my rack and pinion just started blowing fluid past the seal. Grinding noise etc.

2010 Tundra TRD offroad DC. Never had anything but brake and batteries to replace before in 108k miles.

Not a DIY guy for a job like rack. about $2500 out the window…that smarts

Couple months ago had Toytec 2.0 alum coilover installed with a 2.5” lift. sure hope that is unrelated to this!

On the upside if there is one I already had frozen inner/outer tie rods when. they were redoing alignment post lift job, guess the inner comes with OEM RAck…

Just whining…this smarts. A LOT

UPDATE: got the rack replaced with part # 44250-0C160. Cost $2900 including alignment at a local non-dealer shop. Just the prt cost $1100 with their markup. Guess I attribute the problem to the lift job putting strain on it.

 

Just to add a little something....

Two days after taking delivery of my '21 Trail Edition, I was parking at the restaurant when I heard a loud *pop/bang* from under the hood, and lost all power steering.

In comes Toyota roadside, worthless... AAA only slightly less worthless, and my brand new truck is on a flatbed heading to a dealer... while the wife and I are left to figure out how to get home (long story).

Power steering rack blew all the seals out. 249 miles on the truck, only 80 of which did I put on it.

Apparently this is quite the job as it took 4 days to fix/replace the rack.

 

It takes 4 days to do it the way Toyota wants to. There have been a few posts on here about changing it out in several hours....hell.... one member on here changed theirs out on the trail.

 

Time to replace my rack. Had a little abusive operation getting unstuck on an abandoned road/trail and now there's no power steering. A demolished bridge made me stop in a low spot filled with mud, randomly placed barkless logs and 3 inches of snow.

I could make a case for using the money we would have spent on labor to buy upgraded shocks/springs since the TRD shocks are toast after 13 years, but my wife doesn't view my DIY replacement as saving money on normal maintenance since the breakage occurred while I was out hunting. (She must think I drive like I'm in a rally race when I'm unaccompanied and "offroad". ) She complains about the rough ride frequently, but she can't wrap her head around the cost of better shocks. If it wasn't right before Christmas and I wasn't limited to two days of clear, warm weather I would seriously consider just replacing the shocks/UCAs right now so it's all done at once.

Anyway... Called the dealer to order the PN: 44250-0C160 and they tried to talk me into a "Toyota recommended" remanufactured unit for ~$550 so watch out for that at the dealer. Instead I ordered OEM new rack (#44250-0C160) online through Toyota of Nashua, NH and got the rack for $720.89 out the door (no tax, pick-up in store).

Add a 80 mile round-trip to pick it up and a Harbor Freight low-lift transmission jack ($129), poly steering rack bushings ($55) and poly LCA bushings ($290) for and I'm still money ahead on buying just the rack.

You know... if I had had a winch I could have gotten unstuck easily without any damage....

 

So I followed the directions at the top of the thread and it wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be. The weather even cooperated and warmed from the 30's to the mid 50's for a day so I could get it done.

I changed the frontend grease while I was at it and didn't even have to chisel out the drain or fill plugs.

It took all day, but that was mainly because my work phone kept ringing every 30-40 minutes which was more frustrating than the rest of the job.

 

Took my truck to get an alignment today after installing the TRD Pro shocks and they said my bushings were shot on the steering rack. After a few hours of reading all the research, I decided to just replace the whole rack. $200 in tools and parts vs 386 on the Serra Toyota deal. I think itll be worth it. I am at 95k with hard off road miles and bigger wheels. Figured this would set me right for a longer period of time than trying to hammer out the bushings.

 

Interesting choice to replace the rack at 95k miles but sounds like you got a good price on it.

 

Out the door I would’ve been paying 800 for the rack normally. I guess now I am considering moving forward with just replacing the bushings using this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/anyone-replacing-their-steering-rack-bushings-w-35s.61354/
My rack shows no signs of leaking or wear, except the bushings. Regardless I think I will keep the new rack on hand for when I inevitably will have to change it.
Option 3: Replace rack and bushings and move on with my life. Recently added fox suspension to the truck.

 

I subscribe to the ain’t broke don’t fix it method. What’s the procedure for changing the bushings? Do you still need to drop the front diff to do that job?

 

The job requires disconnecting the rack and basically strapping it into place and tapping out the existing bushings with a chisel, then pickle fork as shown in the thread. Looks like quite the cuss word filled job I normally like to avoid. Option b is drop the diff, pull the rack out, install new aftermarket bushings then replace. Toyota doesn’t even sell those bushings but I got some Polys in Energy Suspensions.

I have since talked to a few shops in town and have a separate appt to attempt to get it aligned.
Schwabb wouldn’t touch it because it had the tiniest bit of play. If the shop can align it, and everything is good - I will hang onto my new rack and bushings until that day comes.

 

Dropping the front diff was no big deal for me. Getting it back in was another story and I had to call in some extra sets of hands to help me get it done. I hope I won't need to be doing that again any time soon.

 

Sup guys. New to the thread but been lurking for some time. I used this exact thread to replace my busted steering rack.

Can anyone tell me if a 16’ steering rack fits in a 12’. Planning to replace my rack ones again. ES bushings are beginning to pop out. No idea why cuz I torqued that rack in tight. Thought that if I’m going under there to disconnect it again, so I can adjust it, might as well replaced it with OEM.

 

Hello everyone, looking for some help. I own a 2017 tundra and was wondering if the famous poly rack and pinion bushings that you can find on the coach builder website or energy suspension will fit my rack and pinion?? Reason is, they only list on there that those bushings are for the 2007-2014 tundra year models but I read a few threads on here where guys that own 2015+ are able to get ahold of rack and pinion bushings but when I search up bushings for my year truck nothing comes up. I was even told I need to replace the whole rack because of the bushings going bad which runs me about $500 for a new part.

 

Bushings will fit to 2021. No OEM options, only aftermarket. Scroll up and there is a link to a thread I posted about the replacement process. Not easy…

 

Should fit to current year. I removed the rack and torched the crap out of the old one and put the ES in.

 

Another wheeling trip, another risky activity with no loss of steering. Curious to see what they say next week when they inspect it.

 

Have a new to me 2012 with 105k miles on it. Rack failure. Its at the dealer. I dont have time to replace it myself even though I have the ability and tools. Just no time right now. I have a 2.5 coil over lift up front and 37s I just mounted on it.

Is there anything I should be doing to prevent this in the future? SHould I double check the part number they are installing to make sure its the newest revision or does toyota always use the newest versions. Im pretty sure my tie rod ends are mounted on the bottom of the spindle. Ive seen others mention mounting them up top. Is this something that should be done?

 

Front end is feeling pretty sloppy, truck only has 30k miles on it with some relatively hard off road use and mountain bike shuttling. Does it look like my steering rack bushings could be worn out or is this much play normal? (I am very sensitive to suspension and steering feel in my truck and have already replaced LCA's, UCA bushings, and checked torque of all suspension related bolts)

 

Question for you guys. I have a 2012. Had after market leveling kit on it when I bought it and 33" tires. I installed 2.5" lift on the truck and installed 37s. Shortly after I had the rack fail on me. Had it replaced at toyota for $2800. Had it now for 3 months and 7k miles and it failed again. Found this thread now. The dealer is replacing the rack under parts warranty. Is there something I can do to help keep the rack from failing again. Im debating on going back to stock because of this or maybe even getting rid of the truck. I can't be doing a steering rack at every oil change. I have the factory spindles, should I be installing the tie rod ends on the top instead of on bottom, can that be done. Should I get new spindles to help this?

 

Can inner seals or something inside the rack cause a creaking noise? Can't find anything on this in any of the forums. Audible groaning when turning, under load (no noise when on jacks), especially when it's dry out (goes away with rain). I've almost pinpointed it to the rack, you can feel it, physically hand on the rack under the truck. Can't find anything else. New bushings everywhere, everything is greased. Been chasing this for a year now.

 

I think there was a recall on steering racks made from a certain window of time. It’s possible your second rack was that bunch. I would say all you can do to prevent premature wear of the steering rack is to limit the stationary scrubbing of your tires, aka don’t turn the wheel unless you’re rolling, or install smaller tires.

I don’t know the answer to your question as it pertains to the inner seals, but how loud is the noise? If it’s working I’d say just live with it unless it’s loud enough to cause people to look at you like you’re driving a hooptie

 

Definitely getting some looks haha. I can hear it over reasonable music volume. I've just chased this around and around for a year, I've lubed and replaced everything and still can't pinpoint it. Boots and everything have been fine.

 

That's weird. Wish I could help you but I've got nothing in mind.

 

Super late post but rather use an existing thread.

Did you ever get this resolved? I have a 21 with 42k miles that is now outside of its warranty with these same symptoms.

 

Rack, no. Suspension absolutely yes. Put a wrench on everything, 99% chance something is lose and moving just a small amount.

Have a helper move the wheel back and forth enough to induce the noise and put your hand on everything. Chances are you feel the vibrations.

 

Mine just went out with 53k...covered under warranty. Have 2.5 inch lift with coachbuilder shims and steering kit...295/18 tires. Wish i could avoid this again???

 

I have a 2011 Rock Warrior with 93k miles, steering rack shit the bed the other day while enroute to a camping trip. Towed to the shop and mechanic (and other sites) are telling me the Toyota 44250-0C160 part is on national back order. Been checking a couple Toyota OEM parts sites and not finding much different. Most won't even give an estimated date they'll be available. My mechanic gave a 2 weeks to a month estimate .

Any one have any suggestions on finding the part sooner? Thanks much!