What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Directly inline with the blade. If you’ve ever ever seen a cutting wheel explode… yeah lol

 

So... With the sparks flying at your face?

 

Google search "angle grinder accidents" photos. I did, and I wasn't let down. And feel pretty fortunate, holy shit.

 

Yeah, saw one explode on a guy in the body shop one day. He thought it missed him until we noticed a dark stain coming through his shirt. He was lucky it hit the right side of his chest rather than the heart side.

 

For stuff like that, I'd personally tape my line and use a jigsaw with a fine blade, bi-metal, or similar. You're asking for added pain and lack of granularity using a cutoff wheel, and adding unnecessary hassle, heat, warpage, paint burn, etc.

I get it, jigsaw isn't always possible depending what's underneath, but you can adjust in many cases. Drill your pilot hole downstream from your cut, and go to town.

 

That doesn't tell me where not to stand when cutting though. I never heard of the plane of death, so I guess I've been lucky so far. I've no doubt been in it at least once without any idea haha

 

I'll have to remember that. I have a jigsaw.
I've only used Dad's old angle grinder once or twice.
I'm a sawzall guy myself. Fast and sloppy.

 

Ideal situation with jigsaw, draw your line, tape off on either side of the line. Tape will avoid metal on paint rub of the jigsaw base. Else felt the bottom of the jigsaw base.

 

A sawzall used to be my go to when I was working construction more. And Milwaukee and Diablo make some damn fine carbide blades now days, but I've smoked a few of those pretty quick too. They are pretty pricey vs cut discs.
Agree if you want a fine clean cut and have the room, a jigsaw is hard to beat. I'm not a fan of flairs of any kind but what @khooiii did made them look nice and eliminated the salt/dirt/mud traps!

 

Imagine if the disc was 4ft in diameter, that's the "plane". Anywhere in that zone is subject to a high speed projectile.

 

I don't know why I didn't take plane in literal math terms. Got it.
So you're always in the plane of death some where on your body. Just don't put your face in it, yeah?

 

Or your junk, those are my priorities anyway.

 

https://youtu.be/DlnOcZK892E?feature=shared

 

I very rarely ever use my makita 18v grinder. The battery operated grinders just lack the indefinite torque that a 120v will provide until the complete cut is done. When i shop for used grinders, i’d just wait until i saw an all but new looking milwaukee grinder, then i’d go buy it for $40~$50. It’s going to be pretty darn obvious if it had a hard life or not just from looking at a picture of it.

 

Oh I made the mud trap worse. Now it just flings up inside the bedside because it's all exposed LOL. I'm with you I prefer not to have flares, but taking that round leading edge away and making it sharp really makes the truck feel more aggressive. Just buttoned up the passenger side. Is it me or these HF Hercules discs last longer than diablo? I smoked 2 diablo's cutting the driver side. Passenger side went through like butter using the HF brand. Also used the Milwaukee hacksaw to get through the wheel well vs the angle grinder. Made VERY quick work. Thanks for the suggestion @shifty`! Not quite what you were suggesting, but damn you saved me like 30 minutes haha.

 

I don't do this enough to justify getting another one. I got this in a big Milwaukee bundle on Black Friday. It was like $1400 worth of tools for $600. Not brushless, but I wasn't going to pass that up.

 

My best friend, the guy who sold me my truck, has a NICE scar on his shoulder from an angle grinder exploding while he was working under his Jeep XJ. I keep the guard on. Most of the time

 

Did some test patches with the rust reformer options at harbor freight. I was considering POR15 but now I'm seeing lots of people recommending oiling the frame instead?

I'm thanking my lucky stars, there are no areas with rust through metal. I really don't think ill have to cut and weld anything. I would LIKE to grind out the rivets on the leaf spring hangers to coat the frame rail behind them and use new bolt on hangers. I don't think the condition is bad enough to warrant the $200 right now though.

The worst bit is on the top of the forward crossmember; right by the shock mount. It's pitted ~0.5mm. I'll bring my small die grinder home from work to get a better inspection, see how deep I really need to go. The wire wheel can't reach in a lot of the tight corners.

In the same area was the rusted through muffler...

I cut it clean off.

 

I’m ashamed to admit, but I should probably be buying lotto tickets and stay away from lightning storms. I don’t use my grinder often but I haven’t had the guard on for a while.
I think I’m going to consider myself very lucky and put the guard back on and get a full face shield.

 

All depends where you live. If you live in the land of rust, wire wheel or hand brush it best you can, clean it with the degreaser prep and paint over it with POR-15. At that point you can oil/spray it every year not worrying about missing a spot for at least 4-5 years when it’ll need a touch up.

 

Bedside supports. Still need to do two more rear of the tire, but I need a new vice. Sledgehammer works to flatten out the 3/4” conduit, but it’s not as clean as I’d like.

 

Popped by my buddy’s shop to borrow his vice. Bed still shakes a little, but it’s at the top of the wheel arch so can’t put a support there without hitting it. Utilizing extra dress up bolts that are on the exterior of the truck to keep it clean.

 

Put on a new wheel setup. Anyone have any good recommendations for new springs for with my 5100s? I want the front to be level, it’s still lower than i’d like with just the 1.6in out of the 5100s

 

Yep. Check the Wheels/Tires/Suspension section in the 1st reply over here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

That's built from the collective wisdom of folks here.

 

Good looking truck! Welcome to the forum

 

LED projector retrofit, made my own connections to make it work along with anti flickering module. Bulb is H1 and stock connections are H4, didn't come with a harness. Tested on several washed out areas during this monsoon season, no leaks. Clean cutoff, much needed upgrade from lackluster OEM light output.

 

Welcome aboard.

Looks like you snatched up @Swalters ' truck?

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2004-sr5-dc-4wd-in-arizona.141463/#post-3588787

 

Yes I did. Planning on LBJ and CV axles soon. Have the OEM LBJs on hand.

Thanks for having me btw, so much info from these forums. I'm coming from a UJZ100/LX470. Sold that rig and was itching for another V8 but with a bed.

 

Too funny, I was considering the opposite recently moving to a J100 platform recently, maybe in addition to the Tundra, maybe in lieu of. But then got laid off and had to buy the kids a car, so money went elsewhere.

Meanwhile, on the absolute vanity tip, y'all MF can make fun of me but the sticker fade was really pissing me off. FWIW, it looks like Camry and several other vehicles have stickers that fit our latches. I snatched two while futzing around on the junkyard getting parts for the kids' new Gen3 CR-V.

 

Haha that's hilarious, honestly thought they came yellow from the factory. Didn't know mine was faded. Sorry to hear about your job.

The UJZ100 is a fantastic rig, I would have kept it but we need to bring more "stuff" to our camping trips.