What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Spring clips installed. I think I’m going to try some thick ball bearing grease against the pins to see if it dampens the noise. Might help.

 

Ball bearing = high temp brake grease right? Dont think any is called for in FSM where the caliper pin goes through the brake pad eyelet but know some do decide to grease pins especially at caliper through point to prevent rusty seizing. Have found it can help with pads sliding too at the pad through point but also it can get dirty and gum up and then work against intended purpose so needs serviced occasionally throughout pad life.

 

Use disc brake caliper grease on the pins. A tube is pricey but you can get a packet at the FLAPS.

 

the bottom brace is bolted in. So I just removed it.

 

I was gonna say it's like a buck or something for that little packet and that's all you need.

 

Crackie out here doing crack head shit. Load of old electronics to strip down for copper/steel.

Courtesy of Mamaw clean out. Helps her, and helps us. We all benefit except for my hands.

 

I used some wheel bearing grease and it definitely cut the noise in half. Is the caliper grease any thicker?

Those pad pins holes are definitely loosey goosey (compared to the caliper pin holes)

before:

after:

 

Caliper grease won’t melt at high temps like ordinary bearing grease will.

 

higher melting point. You know, so grease doesn't go where it shouldn't

 

I went with refurbished steel spare tires rims on my Tacoma and really liked how they looked. They aged quickly...but still looked great. I like my starfish rims on the Tundra, but if I ever replace them I'll consider going with the black steel spare rims again. These photos prove they look great on the Tundra too.

 

I agree, I could have taken the time to sandblast and paint them properly but time was limited. I’ve always enjoyed the look of steelies myself.

 

Put the Tundra to work. Pulled the camper up the mountain this weekend. Fall colors are getting awesome. Petit Jean state park in Arkansas.

 

The pad pin holes don't look that wild to me. Look at the gaps in my post of the new OEM pads with new pins. They need to have some room so the pads slide and don't bind. Have seen where they get stuck on top or bottom or one side or the other and pads wear unevenly. And if adding grease definitely high temp caliper brake grease. Did you grease the backs of the pads/shims per FSM grease points?

 

That spring on the brake pads is backwards I believe

 

Agreed. Here is a photo of caliper loaded with new OEM pads and the spring tabs holding the pads firmly with the spring pushing the leading side of the pads outwards during forward travel.

 

Yep, shims have always been regreased per FSM however, this is the third time reusing shims so definitely a little rust.

 

I could try swapping the spring around however I don’t think it’ll matter that much.

 

Yep, the spring is upside down.

 

Backwards but not upside down.

 

No, they are not. They’ve always been on top since I’ve had the truck new.

 

Dual spring club!

the kinks sit on top of the pad.


deleted my comment, cause knabores, cc80, and toyota dude had it covered.

 

I hate letting people work on my truck. Last alignment guy who had trouble with my truck mangled a dust boot which I’ve only found out today, caused the CV axle to get a small leak at the differential and lastly adjusted the total toe from only one side of the truck so the inner toe rods are uneven.

Now I just found out somewhere along the line someone had put large tie wraps in place of the bands on my CV axles. SMH

 

With a significant assist from @FirstGenVol , I cleared all the remotes from my RS3000 ECU and programmed 2 remotes. I also replaced the ignition ring and driver's footwell bulbs with LEDs since I had the lower dash panel pulled out.

This forum (all of you) absolutely rocks as a source of information and support on these trucks!

 

This spring is upside down (and mis-shaped to boot).

 

Wow how did someone cause a leak where the CV mates to the diff getting an alignment? Did they remove the CV for some reason?

Are you talking about a tear in a CV boot or the steering rack.

If the CV needs repaired and you have OE CVs that are still in good mechanical shape can reboot them instead of swapping in aftermarket. Here's a link to writeup and video for how to reboot with various options, including OE, and also aftermarket (like the Allpro from Wheelers etc.) if lifted or plan to lift, so they don't re-tear.

And there are part numbers with economical source for worm style rolled edge band clamps to replace the zip ties that don't require the SST to install. Think all in it's like $15-20 for them including shipping.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-1916#post-3451375

 

When they couldn’t get it to align they drove it off the plates to reset and you could hear it pop where the tire was under stress on the plate and immediately became unstressed as it came off the plate. That lead to the leak (which I found after I got home; beforehand it was bone dry).

After that they managed to get it aligned. The problem was that the tires were so far out of alignment, the machine couldn’t handle it until starting over with a 2nd attempt. (These were new LCAs and hardware)

The other issue was the dust boot on the steering rack getting mangled and hidden from view. Probably in frustration.

 

You mean backwards, right? Upside down makes no sense (unless you think it should be installed on the bottom caliper pin then you would be wrong for my year vehicle).

 

They're inside out.

 

They're reversed