What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

With Crackie, that was probably advisable!

 

You would be 1/2 way there based on your numbers. But, would you be able to get $1500 with the repairs needed? Or are you saying the $1500 is based on the repairs needed?

 

Did a Woolwax undercoating. I put Woolwax in every hole I saw under the truck and made sure to get the boxed frame area. One thing I suggest is to be sure to check behind the plastic cover where the front door opens (both sides). The plastic cover (see 1st photo) is near where the door connects to the body just behind the front fender. The leaves/debris seems to make it's way down to this area from the opening near the hood hinges.

Below are photos from my Sequoia for illustrative purposes (forgot to take photos of the Tundra). The leaves which broke down to soil were packed in the space up to the top of the fender; it just kept coming out. The Tundra was similar with leaves and debris in this cavity. I am so glad there was no rust where this debris had been sitting all those years.


Pull back this plastic shield to reveal the debris.


Debris sitting in the door cavity.


Debris that came out of the door cavity.

 

I believe there’s supposed to be a rubber stop/plug up there that often gets yoinked during windshield replacement which should stop that from happening, at the top of the fender, end of the cowl channel. But maybe I’m thinking wrong. Last time I was in that area on my truck, I was surprised I had little to nothing in there. It was a common pack-full-of-shit point on many of the GM C/K10 and 1500s I’ve owned.

 

Is this the general consensus on moog for the inners? I got the bushings in, and outers done, and bit the bullet on a set of OE inners from Serra. But if I can get away with saving $300 on Moog and the quality isn't typical of moog, I'll see if I can cancel the order from Serra. Also, heard Sankei 555 is OE quality? Parts geek has the inners for $40 each.

 

Depends on what part you're talking about. I can confirm via others, that Sankei 555's lower ball joint is, in fact, shit quality. At least it was for some period of time, and there is at least one, possibly two dissection videos showing it cut open.

Considering racks typically come with inners pre-installed, it's almost silly what Toyota charges for just the inners.

 

Inner tie rods only.

 

I still have my 2nd set of Moog inners I don’t need because the original first set of Moogs are still good and it’s been several years since I first put them on my truck. You’ll always get a longer life with OEM so I don’t think it’s a loss getting them, you just save some cash with the Moogs. Moog outer tie rods are crap though.

Also, not good reviews here on the Sankei 555s as they’re still not as good as OEM.

 

Yea I'm looking at the cost of a rack now, and shoot, for $300 more than I paid for just the inners, I could have a reman rack. Half the cost is the inners!

 

I'm running Moog inners for that reason. Toyota wants so much money for inners that it makes more sense to buy a new rack instead.

 

I think I may give it a shot, even if I have to pay to ship them back to Serra, thats still a bunch saved.

 

I may also be running moog inners

 

The question is, whether they’ll take them back or not. I’ve never heard of any dealership who will openly take back any shipped part, unless they made a mistake and you can prove it. I’ve only ordered from 7-8 dealerships over the internet though, so maybe my experience is too limited?

 

I return stuff all the time. They’ll refund it back minus the shipping spent if it’s unused and in saleable condition. Unless it’s electronic parts, of course.

 

I had this same thought about returning, I guess I'll wait to order until I speak to them monday

 

Moog inner’s here as well

 

Replaced my truck's oil pressure sending unit to remedy the quirky pressure reading that's been on the truck since I've owned it. Part no. 83520-60051.
Oil pressure gauge still reads negative (engine oil vacuum ). It doesn't move from this level regardless of RPM, always showing me a negative reading.
Now, I learned after installing that these oil pressure sender units use pipe threads. Whoops, I tightened it down flush, rookie mistake. I have confirmed no cracks on the threaded portion, no resulting oil leaks.
However this new sender unit has not fixed my "negative" and unchanging oil pressure gauge reading. Possibilities:
1) Overtightening the oil pressure sender unit will make it fail to work due to being threaded in too deep.
2) The gauge is broken, or some other electrical problem.
3) The part I got is junk. Ordered from "Toyota" on Scamazon, and the part is simply DOA.

I'd love to hear all of your thoughts. Fingers crossed it's not option 1). At this point my idiocy has caused the threaded hole to become "opened up" due to screwing that bitch in too tight.

 

Weird. I don’t think mine ever shows that low on the gauge

 

Just an FYI, legitimate Toyota parts aren't sold by Toyota on Amazon. Those will all be third party companies with either counterfeit parts or aftermarket parts instead.

 

I'll go with option #3. However, I honestly wouldn't worry about it. It wouldn't surprise me if these engines probably operate with as little as 4 psi at idle, which is acceptable. The guages in them are not finely-calibrated tools, and this is true in any car manufacturer. If it makes you feel better, buy an OEM unit and replace it and forget about it.

 

Oh I'm well aware! Hence the "Toyota" in quotes I expect it's a Chinese copy, but with how non-critical the oil pressure gauge is, I figured I'd toss a cheap replacement in there to see what happens since the bad gauge reading is a pet peeve.

 

One vote for option 3. Could be junk...gonna try and get another one for $0.
Ever heard of option 1 causing problems? I don't know if that's even a possibility.

 

I mean, I’m super tired right now, but I assume the gauge itself is resistance-based and the amount of pressure pushing into the sensor internals generates resistance on the circuit to feed the gauge.

Just spitballing here, but if accurate, maybe check the FSM to figure out the expected resistance range (that info may be in the low pressure TSB), find a resistor that would create that load in range, unplug the harness, and if two-wire, plug the resistor in appropriately to complete the circuit, and see if the gauge responds? If not, the gauge and/or its needle position and/or its motor is the prob. Or if it’s a single wire, plug in appropriate to the wire plug and tap the other end to ground.

Or better yet, with the sensor installed and engine running, unplug the harness and test the resistance directly from
The sensor. If you aren’t seeing shit, the sensor is bad. If you are seeing resistance, compare the amount you’re seeing to the expected range from the FSM or TSB

 

No, I've never heard of option #1 being an issue on any engine from any manufacturer. I don't believe it's possible, either. Like I said, if it brings you peace of mind (which I get) buy a new OEM unit, install it and carry on.

 

When you pulled the sensor did oil come rushing out, or dripping out, or not at all?
On the re-install just wrap the threads with some thread tape (I like the BlueMonster brand) and then don't Smoke it to Alabama!
That needle looks sus though... is that backlighting LED? as in was the cluster worked on/removed?
I always start to retrace my steps on anything I've worked on because... well, you get it

 

The oil rushed out nice and strong for a few seconds before waning. I used thread tape, standard white stuff. I agree the needle looks sus...with how low it is. Never worked on the instrument gauge cluster display, never taken apart (bought LEDs to replace a long time ago, procrastinating).

 

Mine was always reading none to very little. I changed the unit also with a genuine part and experienced no change. I gave up.

 

I recently ordered a VERY EXPENSIVE part from Ourisman. Before I pulled the trigger I asked about their return policy (I was only 95% certain that I needed it (turns out I did, so no need to return).

PLEASE NOTE: ANY PARTS RETURNED USING THE ORIGINAL TOYOTA BOX AS THE SHIPPING BOX WILL NOT BE ELIGIBLE FOR RETURN AND WILL NOT BE REFUNDED. THESE ITEMS MAY BE RETURNED TO YOU AT YOUR EXPENSE IF DESIRED. THE REASON FOR THIS IS THAT THE FACTORY TOYOTA BOX CANNOT BE DAMAGED, NOR HAVE MARKS, STICKERS, WRITING, ETC. ON IT IN ORDER FOR US TO RETURN IT TO TOYOTA AND RECEIVE CREDIT, OR TO SELL IT TO ANOTHER CUSTOMER.PLEASE BE 100% CERTAIN THAT YOU PUT THE FACTORY TOYOTA BOX WITH THE PART NUMBER LABELS ON IT INTO ANOTHER EXTERNAL SHIPPING BOX WHEN SHIPPING THE PART(S) BACK TO US. THANK YOU FOR YOUR UNDERSTANDING AS THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT CRITERION.

Return Policy :

• Returned ordersmay incur a 10% restocking feedue to Toyota's return policy.
  
• Any order more than 60 days old is non-returnable. This means that all returnsmust be received by uswithin 60 days of an order being placed.
  
• We are no longer able to accept returns or cancellations for items with an individual cost below $10.00.
  
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• All orders must be inspected within 48 hours of arrival to report any damage or discrepancies with the components received.There is a time limit to file claims with carriers, so it is imperative that orders are promptly inspected. We are not responsible for any discrepancies with parts received outside of the parameters laid out in our return policy. E.g. if you do not inspect a package until after 60 days of receipt, for any reason, the item is non-returnable/refundable.
  
• A copy of the invoice or paperwork showing your order number will need to be included with the return.
  
• Parts must be resalable and in the original packaging with factory part number label intact. This is non-negotiable and a requirement of Toyota.
  
• Please do not use the factory box that has the part number labels on it as the shipping box, or put any markings/labels on it. If the factory package is damaged; marked on; or covered in shipping labels, we will not be able to return or refund your item(s).
  
• We cannot take back used parts for any reason. "Used" also includes parts that were plugged in/bolted up or used as a test component to track down an issue.
  
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• We do reserve the right to refuse and return any part(s) we find have been installed, are used, or do not meet any of the above criteria. If an item is returned and it has been used/installed/does not meet any of the return criteria, you will be notified and return shipping would be your responsibility.
  
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• The original cost of shipping is non-refundable.
  
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• When a VIN is used on the order, we will do our best to verify part fitment based on original factory information.Whenever we verify part fitment, the part numbers provided will be the OE part replacements.
  
• If you are modifying your vehicle, please do not include your VIN. If included, you may end up with direct factory replacement parts that are not what you are looking for.