What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Actually, I'm a beginning welder, so I'm just starting to get in tune with interactions of all the variables. You're probably running flux core (I don't see a gas bottle). Of course it's going to splatter, that's the nature of the beast. If you're fouling the tip so often I suspect insufficient wire feed speed, either because of the roller tension and/or match to your wire diameter, or because you just need to dial in more wire speed. Also double check that you're using the correct tip for your wire diameter. Grab a piece of scrap steel the same thickness as you're welding, and practice writing your name (fiddling with the voltage and speed) until you get a nice bead. And listen to what you're doing. You need to get that "sizzling bacon" sound.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cB4irRaB_6s&t=471s

 

Get a small tub of anti splatter nozzle dip. It should help quite a bit, even with inner shield wire. If there’s a way to hook up a tank of 75/25 welding gas (75% argon, 25% CO2) to your HF welder, it will be a total game changer for your welding projects.

 

Dude youre killing it man! I taught myself to weld a couple years ago and absolutely love the possibilities it opens up as well, such as projects like this!

I also just flux core weld, and its a little messier but have had good luck with it and just takes some extra time to clean it up. Someday Ill get some gas and try some proper MIG welding.

Looking great though man, perfect project to learn to weld on since there is so much to weld! Haha

 

Awesome looking truck, and really cool youre the original owner!

What took you so long to come join us here though? Haha, such a great forum and great dudes!

 

I need to get on this. I have yet to try using gas with my Hobart but Ive heard and seen how much of a game changer it can be! I should probably just look for a used tank and get it filled up.

Is that the recommended proportion for steel welding? 75/25 argon and CO2

 

Yes, 75% argon and 25% CO2 for steel (for both MIG and TIG).

100% argon for aluminum (for both MIG and TIG).

100% argon for stainless (but only for TIG).

Trimix 90% helium, 7.5% argon, and 2.5% carbon dioxide for just MIG welding stainless.

 

Think there was an article on different LBJ bolts retorquing better than others.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/spiker-engineering-lower-ball-joint-bolt-test-1st-gen.111746/

 

Well I ran my suspension without limiting straps and I overextended a bit. Now I'm trying to get straps but I can't find a good location to mount them. Does anybody know where to mount rear limiting straps on our 1st gens?

 

You mention a crossover and it hadn't really CROSSED my mind but the set that @KNABORES got doesn't appear to have a physical crossover and that had me thinking again, the factory setup doesn't either it just has the inline capacitor up near the speaker. It seems like you either need to retain the capacitor (probably the wrong value for the new) or you run a crossover driver the proper way, otherwise you're just pumping the full range up to the tweeter which I've heard isn't a great way to go about it.
EDIT again, the Rockford has a built in crossover in the tweeter, disregard most of what's above.

I don't honestly hate the way my stuff sounds now. I may just go with the basics on this run and replace the 6.5s with another set that physically fits better and worry about the tweeter later or just leave it be.

In regards to JBL Club series speakers, I'd say the speakers I have right now are JBL Club speakers and I seem to remember having no option but to use the adapter ring that was included with it in order to get the holes to line up, which is also what is making them stick out too far and rub the door panel. I'll have to do some more research.
Edit: I have been considering Kicker speakers as I have those in the rear already

 

One of these days I need to replace my tweeters. I've upgraded everything else in my sound system.
I assume even with a 5 channel amp, that the tweeters would still tap into the front speakers for signal/power?

 

Maybe the newer gen truck goes to the son & you keep yours. Parts are getting hard to find, would be easier to repair any new-driver mistakes on a newer truck. Also your truck is likely on the upswing in value, a 2nd or 3rd gen would still be on the downswing in value. Something a little newer might actually make more sense for the new driver.

 

If that's the case, I'd argue to find the kid a used third gen Tacoma

 

Nozzle Jelly haha, I tried that once. Just dip the tip

 

Yeah, youde hate for it to come home squated with 10 inches of poke on 24s and have to put it out of it's misery

 

See @alb1k's setup. https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-2wd-dc.86734/page-16#post-2984009

 

I don't have my tweeters anymore, shipped all my OEM non-JBL drivers to another member. I feel like I remember the tweeters having a cap hot glued into their plastic base directly but I don't recall.

And interestingly enough, for my '06 AC with the amplified 6-speaker non-JBL system, the rears were 6ohm. The front mids were 4-ohm direct-wired (no cap on the basket). I haven't looked closely at the Y-cable (nor split it open) to see if theyr'e running in series, what's happening behind that tape, is there a cap? But if the rears are 6ohm, the front mids are 4ohm, maybe the tweeter is 8 ohm, and the Y-cable is in-series to create a 6ohm load up front too?

I'd really want to see what's inside the Y-cable before I proceded with repurposing the cable, because if the Y-cable *IS* a series circuit, and you got 4ohm drivers, you're pushing an 8ohm load to your head unit and/or OEM amp. If you went with a driver like many JBL and some other companies sell nowadays that's 3ohm, you'd be fine, and return 6ohm (again, only if the Y-cable creates a series circuit).

Likewise, like you alluded to, if they're using caps inline, they'd have it wired correctly so the mid is 1st in line and gets full-range sound, then sends signal to a cap to filter, then to the tweeter, then return. But you wouldn't necessarily want to have a cap mounted on the aftermarket speaker and another inline.

But anyway, clear as mud, right? I definitely used adapters on my mids, I remember having to prune the damn adapters. Guess I should check my doors sooner than later to see if I've been rubbing similarly. But in general, I really want to swap out those 6½" for something larger, ideally a 7" full range that doesn't require an adapter (like what PowerBass sells) but ...

 

Question: I want to change the upper radiator hose and clamps... If I remove the radiator cap and drain from the petcock at the bottom of the radiator, will the fluid level go down within the upper hose, such that I can change it cleanly? If not, what are your better methods? Thanks ya'll!

Basic stuff today, set up some new sway bar end links by Maxx, but need to drop the skid to install the bar... Replace oiled KN with OEM air filter. Installed the 3D printed OCD air cabin filter, a new truestart 27F battery, and the Course MS phone holder.

 

Well what I've been driving has sounded fine to me so I assume all is well but I guess it's a bit subjective.

Maybe there isn't a cap in line, I may be thinking of another vehicle. I'll have to see when I have the door panel off again.

I didn't need any adaptors to wire just the 6.5s. The wires were just soldered directly to the speakers so I just cut it off at the solder joint and added the proper connectors. I suppose when running a crossover you have to go about it differently.

 

Got some 33's mounted up 265/75/16 Ivan Stewart wheels to 285/70/17 rc 17x9s

 

TITS

 

Yeah, you repurposed. As long as it sounded good, guess I wouldn't sweat it? With crossover, yep, you either get the cheap Metra harness that replaces the Y-harness, which if you saw the price on that Y-harness you'd probably want to "just in case" you need to revert later, or you cut the Y-harness somewhere in its middle before 2 wires turn into 4. Run those 2 wires to the crossover input. The crossover then feeds the tweeter and mid using different leads.

Really, an ideal situation would have those speakers wired directly, separately, so you could use your amp or DSP to control what they're being fed, but that's waaaaay outside the scope of most people's build ambitions. Using crossovers on components like that is a perfectly suitable workaround that does the job, and is easier for most people to manage, since picking out and dropping the right capacitor inline, when you've only got one wire pair but two speakers, isn't everyone's cup of tea.

How bad are you rubbing at full-lock in reverse and forward with the new setup?

 

I expected to rub but luckily I'm not rubbing at all...except for a tiny bit on the bumper lip passenger side. Haven't pushed it too hard off-road but we'll see. No frame rub. -12 offset. Still running the 2" strut spacer up front but am in the process of deciding between 5100's and 6112's...leaning towards the latter

 

Nice, any idea what your caster numbers are currently up front?

 

Pulled the trigger on this JVC KW-350BT head unit from Crutchfield for my brother's 02 AC. (Crutchfield says it's a drop in replacement.) I really need Bluetooth for my mobile phone and a backup camera for help when parking. My bro still uses the CD player on occasion, so I wanted to maintain that ability. Do y'all know how hard it is to find a head unit with Bluetooth, CD, and camera inputs that's a drop in for the Gen 1s? I'll post when I get everything installed.

 

I'm still waiting to find one with CarPlay, SAT, camera AND volume knob.

 

This one accepts a plugin XM tuner, but good luck finding anything with a volume knob. That's something I definitely wanted but couldn't find.

 

Ground and blended all exterior welds, then mounted it to truck and fit and cut and fit and cut and fit and cut the tube bars. Holy moly that was a lot of work! Welded those up (what a b, you’re either melting tube and making a huge gap or making shite welds. Eventually I just started stacking bead slowly in circles until it touched the tube and that kind of mostly worked. Those need to be ground down and blended tomorrow and then I’m ready for primer and then wtf ever. Tired of deadlifting that fucking beast onto my truck and threading bolts! Where’s a tranny jack when I need one?!

 

Caster is currently
2.0 left 1.9 right

 

Whatcha gon’ do with them Ivan’s?