What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

It's *GOT* a j shift transfer case from an FJC

Edited typo

 

Tree=sequoia

 

Duh...

Just=got
Stupid smartphone not so smart.

 

I'm running on two hours or sleep tonight. Worked 00:00-08:00 at the hospital (walked about 6 miles that shift), then worked 09:00-16:00 on the tree, and now I'm at my usual job 19:00-07:00. Going for 8 miles tonight. We'll see if I have the guts.

 

I’ve been MIA for a bit. Winter was cold and everything on the truck was working great so I left it alone. Yesterday I replaced a tail light and hooked up my rear diff breather relocation to the driver taillight. The valve I got was apparently not a 1 way valve as air flowed in/out, but I tested the old one and it worked perfectly so I reused it despite being threaded and putting it into a hose. Today I decided to install spark plugs I bought a few months ago. I couldn’t find the spark plug torque spec quickly enough just searching, so I watched a tundra YouTube video and skipped to the TQ spec part. Stated 18 ft/lbs. I set it at 17 ft/lbs and used no thread seal to prevent over tightening - swapped them all out. Now that I’m done I found that it was 18NM or 13ft/lbs. not 18 Ft/lbs….. how could YouTube lie to me!! Haha. So I am over torqued, the crush washer is already crushed. Do I back them off and go back to 13? Or just call it a problem for “future me”.

 

I think you should be tldine. I've never torqued mine on any vehicle. I always go finger tight with the long extension, then a quarter turn with the ratchet.

 

Yeah that's probably about 13ft/lbs

 

Ditto. Always went by feel. But never owned a Ford, or any other brand of vehicle with known issues about thread stripping.

 

I had two that came out super easily and had some fouling on the coil boot. It seemed like some exhaust gas could have leaked through?

 

I have a wix fuel filter. I've had it on my truck for 4 years and no issue. Wix is one of the best filter brands you can get. That's not to say that there couldn't be something defective on yours but they usually make a good product.

 

Wix from NAPER here, 3.5yrs, np

 

For the record, I'm a Wix guy too. If you search against my username in this forum, and the term "wix", you'll probably find a dozen or more times I've mentioned it.

 

So I was doing some work on the rear leaf springs and had the truck with jackstands on the frame to help the rear axle droop. Was Working on the Driver side, with the lower shock bolt removed to allow that side to droop further down.

After several times of raising the axle up and down for various reasons, I was lowering it and it wasnt going down as far as it was before. Then I noticed why it wasnt drooping as much... A spare jack stand I had sitting under the truck had caught the parking brake cable on the driver side and was stretching the cable like crazy with the weight from the axle resting on it.

So now im curious. Did I just over adjust the drum brakes on the Driver side by doing this? Also mess up the adjustment on passenger side as well? Or just stretch the cable and have to take some of the new slack out of it?

I checked the rears for drag and unloosened the star adjuster, then re-adjusted for some drag. The bell cranks seemed to have the right adjustment still, and I took some slop out of the adjustment on the cable towards the front of the truck to get the right amount of "clicks" throw out of the parking brake lever. Havent had a chance to drive it yet and see how the brake pedal feels, but just figured I'd ask you guys to see what might have happened by stretching the parking brake cable so severely!

 

I doubt the cable has been stretched. It’s pretty amazing just how strong they are. You could drag the whole back half of a rusted out honda accord down a gravel county road for at least 10 miles before one would break.

 

Do we need to ask you how you know, or should we just assume?

 

But do you think pulling on the parking brake cable added a bunch of clicks to my adjuster?