What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

There are 2 Knock Sensors in that valley. You might as well replace both and also replace the Starter while in there. Get the Heavy Duty Starter from Denso if your truck doesn’t already have it. They cost less, too.

 

I'm going to be checking all the wires for rodent abuse before I even consider tearing things apart. We haven't had trouble with varmints eating our cars, but I have a neighbor across the cul de sac that has had a lot of trouble. I usually don't have vehicles in the drive that don't get driven much, but now that the sports car runs, it's seeing more miles than the truck...so the truck sits.
I have to do pull all 4 valve covers, check torque on the head studs, reset valve lash, and then change the oil on the sports car this week before Saturday. So the Tundra will have to wait until Sunday. Going to clean up the battery wiring and inspect closely for chewed/damaged wires and I'll report back.

Has anyone heard of a knock sensor failing in the 2uz-fe? ('06 w/VVTI)
@empty_lord?

 

Good idea to check the wires. I know whenever the Starter or these Knock Sensors ever need replacing on my truck that all 3 items will be done simultaneously because they are in a tough spot. The Knock Sensors are about $150 each! And the HD Denso Reman is about $150.

I’ve been looking to source these Knock Sensors directly from Matsushita for about $100 each, but only 6 reviews.

 

replace the wire harnesses as well. They are cheap enough and when my knock sensors were replaced, my mechanic didn't do it and ended up still getting a code and he had to rip the supercharger back off just to replace those harnesses.

And to answer your question, yes (1) of my knock sensors were bad. I replaced both, both harnesses (after the fact) and the starter just so we didn't have to rip all that apart again.

 

Very rare. But the harness does go bad on Toyota engines. I don’t remember if the 4.7 has a seperate knock sensor harness or not. But if it does it’s good practice to replace it

 

Got the carrier bearing and u joints installed, seems like it drives smoother now, but could be my mind wanting to find a difference...

 

Did some sound proofing in the back corners up into the seat belt area. Checked my rear ABS Holes post pass side seal install and its success time!

Dry as a bone.

 

Here is a pic of the driver side that the Stealer did. ABS Ring off center. Visual inspection shows damage to the serrations edges all the way around. The center of the ring appears that the ABS was hammered on with a metal shaft versus a pressing which lead to the damaged edges. Stealer will be getting an email.

 

This dealership must like you being around. They keep forcing you to come back.

 

Curious - what are the specs on those tires and how are you feeling about them? They look great on your truck which already looks damn perfect!

I'm in the market for tires in the next 5-10k miles, even though that may be 12-18 months away with how this pandemic situation is going. Starting to eyeball around now in case a good deal pops up before then.

 

That last (3rd time) ‘was it’ per the Service Managers quote. He said they will do no more. I agree because I will not go back there ever. Spent tens of thousands at that place over the years.

My questions will be:

1) Why is the ABS Ring off center (compared to the OEM side) and how does this affect the safety performance of the ABS System?

2) Why are many of the ABS Ring edges damaged? How will this affect the ABS System performance?

3) How does one know if the ABS Ring and it not being centered up with the Speed Sensor that the ABS System will work properly?

 

The manifold has to come off, but it's not that bad. 1 1/2 first time, 1 hour second time, and I'm betting I could get it in 45 min now. I'm sure Mr. Lord could get one off in 30.

I'm betting something in the harness is acting up. Make sure if you get one it's for an 05-06; they're different from 00-04.

 

It just uses magnetic fields to count the rings and match it up to the fronts. Mine was still fine even though it was more to the wheel than yours.

 

I'd like to know how often engines are ever saved by the knock sensor. Almost seems like they cause more harm than good.

 

One time, on a really hot day, I was running 88(93 recommended) in my corolla xrs. It's I think 11.5 compression ratio. I lugged it of the line and heard a millisecond of knock then lost power. I wanna say the sensor backed off the timing, but who knows.

 

Stock is 11.5 comp?

 

Yup. Made next to no torque off the line. It was a screamer though. Yamaha designed head.

 

That's definitely impressive! My 88 crx hf with an ls/vtec back in the day was built with 11.5 comp. That thing screamed as well but definitely ran 93 always!

Doesn't surprise me it was a yamaha built head!

 

Pinging and Knocking will harm an engine over time. Just imagine death by a thousand cuts.

 

Man, I LOVED my 89 si I had back in high school. Y-49 too. I wanted a b18b in it just to be different. Still want one but they're ridiculous prices.

 

I sent an email just to see the answer from them. I’ll post up the answers when a response comes back.

 

Ok, what's the solution? Knock sensor detects knock. What would we do as a result? Rebuild engine?

I guess what I'm getting at is that it seems like the sensor's main function is to tell you your engine may be f*cked. I'm curious if an engine could be saved by the time the sensor goes off.

 

We’d replace the Sensor. No need to rebuild engine.

The Knock Sensor detects knocks and adjusts the ECU and ignition timing to bring the engine back into an optimized state.

If its a bad Sensor, then it can’t optimize and long term will lead to major engine problems.

Improper Octane Gas use can cause knock like @bmf4069

Our 4.7L Engines can tune to 87 thru 93 Octane. The Knock Sensor adjusts those ranges.

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/60

 

I edited my last post while you were typing. I understand what the sensor does. My questions was more of, assuming it actually detected a real knock, what's the solution? It seems like more often than not the knock sensor does more harm than good. I've known a lot of people that have had to replace their knock sensors on various cars over the years.

 

Hopefully I won’t rub the frame anymore.

 

Yes and no. They do protect the engine whether it's noticed or not. One of those deals where if it's working properly you'll never know it's doing it's job but if it's out of whack you'll definitely notice.

 

They’re 285/70 KO2’s. I’ve run KO2’s on all my trucks, so I’m biased. That said, I’ve always gotten 70-80K miles off mine and they still have a little tread. I rotate and drive like a grandpa so that may have some affect.

I do a lot of dirt road driving living in the country, mud when it rains and they do great, never have any issues.

They’re also quiet to me, no louder than the Michelin AT2’s that were on it when I bought it which is a much less aggressive AT tire. Being a load range “C” helps.

I’ve also owned Toyo AT, Falken Wildpeaks and General Grabbers over the years and never had any issues with those. The Grabbers were heavy, I did notice that.

Looks wise, to me, I love the KO2’s. Especially these latest models that have the bigger font and more beefy sidewall, they look a lot more aggressive in person.

 

Whats a ‘Real Knock’?

Why would an engine develop this ‘Real Knock’?

What real examples of ‘knock sensors doing more harm than good’ are you talking about?

 

I'm bias to Ko2's as well. My lx470 has 50k on them and tons of life left. Definitely think they are plenty quiet (louder now than new) but have handled extremely well in all conditions.

I've "heard" bad about wet weather but the lx470 is 4x4 all the time so haven't had any issues. Haven't had any in my Tundra either but not nearly as much wheel time on it as my lx470.

 

Crap. I just noticed you had that info in your signature, was that there before? Sorry for the extra typing, if so.

TireRack is trying to put me in a 265 @ ~$220/ea with no other options but looks like the 265 is load range "E".

Setting up a few alerts and will go from there.