What weight oil

@Texas Girl I was talking to a fellow who works at a Dodge dealership and told him of my brothers issues with the 5.7 Hemi lifter/cam shaft issues and he said that engine has had that problem since Day 1.

His opinion was the design of the engine didn’t allow proper oil lubrication of the camshaft, lifters and valves. But your post made me think could it be the wrong oil specification?

 

I'd stick with the 0W-20, I recently put in 5W-20 and my performance has been terrible ever since. Most notable issues has been torque and gas mileage. The other thing I notice is throttle response is significantly slower. I live in Ventura CA which is a beach town with mild temps year round.

 

If NAPA had their way, I'd be running 40 weight, not 30.

 

I would stick with OEM recommended weight. I did some research on this issue in general and my takeaway is that in recent years engines are engineered to the recommended oil weight from startup to operating temp over a wide range of temps. Messing with that does more harm than good. Not like in the old days…. I only use a quality synthetic and never over 5k with everything new. Oil is cheaper that repairs.

 

Mine had a like a lifter tick or some ticking on the test drive with 10 miles on the truck. When slowing down to a light or Idling. But it is still the same. I got 69k miles and for two years it was my work truck and it would tick away Idling 3 to 8 hours each day. If I have the ac fan on high I can't hear it inside the truck. And it's more ticking sounding in the truck. If I go and pop the hood it's hard to hear because everything else is very loud in the Tundra. I say it's normal. I only will use 0w20.

 

i had the opposite experience. It’s possible that cold mornings you are sensing this when warming up? Both oils should act the exact same at operating temp

 

I’m in Houston, I run 0w30 or 5w30 in the summer and 0w20 or 5w20 the rest of the year. I feel like the truck runs smoother on 30. I’ve felt zero difference on 0w vs 5w.

 

Grab a 0w-30 and enjoy the benefits of all? I had a conversation with some emails back and forth with Stefan Braun, the "Application Specialist" at LIQUI MOLY Germany, I was questioning the use of Ceratec +/- mos2 and the moly new gen oils, as I've started using ceratec in my tundra with the factory toyota dealer 0w-20 oils (as I have 6 free oil changes at the dealer) and with ceratec it has removed the 5.7 diesel tick almost completely. Now part of this conversation included the question of 0w vs a 5w and I got an interesting response.





"Everything else being equal, a 0W-xx oil will always provide better wear protection" I feel there are a few things not being considered here, clearly we can all hear it 0w-20 vs 5w-30, the 0w is louder, but is it the 30 or is it the 5 causing this difference. is this louder the sound of slap? if so is this considered during wear protection, there is a difference between just running a bearing smoothly with weight like those oil test videos (shout out Project Farm) but that is different than inside an engine where the force is not consistent, its a sin wave with each engine rotation there is additional force ++++-----+++++---- and this sine wave of force, does the 0w oil being thinner have the same "impact" protection as the thicker oils. Something I don't know, but we do know 5w-30 is cheap, and 0 and 5 are pretty close numbers, and the 5.7 v8 toyota engine is old so it likely all doesn't really matter anyways and just use whatever makes you feel better, your truck will rust away before it becomes an issue anyways most likely.


Given LM does offer 0w-30, I may look to that, after giving the new gen LM 0w-20 +2 bottles of Mos2 a try when I run out of free oil changes.

I've been running oil analysis every oil change on my 2021 Tundra 5.7 from new, using only Toyota dealer oil (and dealer changed with filter) so far, and so far only 2 bottles of ceratec in the last oil change (sample date 12/29/2023), nothing questionable so far, the cool thing to note is the very first oil change (ignore it shows miles, I'm using KM in the numbers, I change oil every 10,000 km, 6200-ish miles) Toyota Factory Assembly plant oil has a crazy amount of Molybdenum because even after 10,000km it still reports 736 ppm, and it takes about 40,000km for the factory assembly oil to work its way out (notice the Iron,copper amounts)



Wanted to add, from my first report the assembly oil, looked to be a 5W/20 from the Labs reporting.

 

haha yessssss

 

5W-30 FTW.

Get on board kids. Time's a wastin'.

 

have anyone posted the bell curve distribution of Tundra oil related failures by viscosity?


Beuller?

 

I have owned many Toyota’s and many of my family members have owned Toyota’s (well over 25 combined) All have/had the “tick”. Some engines are worse than others but IMHO it’s a Toyota engine characteristic that has zero impact on the engine’s longevity and reliability…

 

Gotta wonder, if the exhaust manifold were thicker, and the valve covers were thicker, would the tick be quieter ​

 

I use 5W-30 Mobil 1 for a couple years and no noticeable anything. It does not get that cold here in WA and I like the idea of 30 weight. I change the oil and filter every 5000 miles +/- 2500 miles as I do t drive much. My towing and city driving is limited.

 

Good deal
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