2022 Tundra vs 2022 F-150 opinion?

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https://www.tundras.com/threads/f150-to-tundra.139889/#post-3527203

 

Crap! Are you telling me I've been doing this pig thing all wrong this whole time?

 

Alright so I've been hit by the "Powertrain malfunction/reduced power" message that can mean so many different things on these Fords.

'21 Powerboost with 21k. It came on as I was pulling out of the driveway. Caused no driveability issues and disappeared from the dash and app when I turned the truck off and on.

Have an appointment next Friday but betting/hoping it is a state of charge issue and may cancel if I don't see it again before then. It sat for a week while we were away on our cruise then was barely driven for a week after that while I sat on the couch watching my kid fight his regular yearly scheduled days long battle with a miserable stomach virus. Once he was on his feet i went back to commuting in my company car and would drive the truck about 1 mile to get him from school at day's end.

It has probably been driven 10 miles tops in the last 3 weeks. I have read repeatedly these things hate to sit around doing nothing but just wasn't able to get out.

This has probably been the lightest use the truck has seen since I've owned it. just did a 20 minute highway/stop and go spurt with nothing new.

If it doesn't pop up again in the morning I'm thinking it's a one off. Then it'll get lots of use this weekend. It Would be the 2nd dash light I've had go on then turn back off never to be seen again, accompanied by no drivability issues.

 

Lets hope that is the case.

I have had multiple hybrids and have company provided truck. When I was looking for used vehicle, I didn't even look at hybrids or EV (I bought a home that has solar panels) because it will not be driven on a regular basis. Hybrid and EV batteries don't do well sitting around, likely worse in Florida's hot humid weather. My dinosaur Tundra should have no issues with it.

 

nah, its just the light that comes on here and there to remind you, "you bought a ford"

jokes aside, its probably fine, these new trucks are rolling software machines, glitches happen.

 

Take a voltage reading before you go away. Take another reading when u return. See how much the drain is.

It has probably been driven 10 miles tops in the last 3 weeks. I have read repeatedly these things hate to sit around doing nothing but just wasn't able to get out.

After an event like above the worst thing you can do is drive it here and there. Do a slow charge to full. if a battery gets discharged two times below acceptable levels it becomes questionable. These vehicle starting battery's are the opposite design of for example a marine trolling motor battery that accepts hundreds of charges. Its also the reason you need to top up those portable energy packs regularly. They are the same design as a vehicle's battery.

I have solar chargers that can be mounted on a fence, stand or put on your dash with their connectors exiting the door to the battery terminals. But they need sun. My 2018 truck (knock on wood) same battery still. There is no reason batteries should not go 10 years if always charged.

If I told you a vehicle can have mechanical drain, just like electronic drain - would you believe me ?

 

Was fine when I just parked for the night. We'll See how it behaves tomorrow.

I am supposed to take an hour plus drive tomorrow afternoon to price a small shed build I put off for a few years because when I wanted to do it a few years ago my wife barged in with opinions about buying local vs buying from Home Depot. But then got sticker shock on the local deal and squashed it. Then after wasting time on that back and forth the window to do it passed and other things got in the way for awhile. Can't wait to dig out the paperwork to show her the price when I wanted to do it vs now.

Lately I am doing that with a couple different things she did not ever want to be bothered with pre COVID that require attention more urgently now

 

also on your to do list is change your vehicle to ford from your 09 crewmax, haha!

 

80% chance it's a low charge or bad battery. IIRC, you put a new battery in it when you had previous electrical issues?
Throw a charger on it and you're fine but for Gods sake don't let the battery go dead. We both learned enough through our issues to know that you don't want all the stuff on the CANBUS to have to find itself again.

 

I agree with the battery theory. I had a Subaru Outback throw all kinds of seemingly random codes once. Turns out it was the battery. Still started the car fine, but voltage was low enough where some of the computers and sensors weren't happy.

 

What’s everyone’s opinion on using battery tender?

 

I use Noco Genius chargers. One for my car and the others I use to keep the boat batteries in the workshop topped up over winter. Excellent customer service. Years ago I had an issue with one. They told me - cut the power cord off and throw it in the garbage and sent me a replacement. I opened it, fixed a bad connection to the capacitors and it still works good.

*******************************************************************
Buyers market unfolding
We predicted this here 6 months ago. And a Perfect storm is coming if you are looking to buy this summer or later.
We have 1) the interest rates which really are not that bad historically speaking, but when you combine them with 2) stupid, greedy manufacturing pricing , all we need now is 3) higher gas prices to complete things. And that always happens with driving season. So, if you have patience I would wait.

Tundra Platinums and 1794’s are now being rebated and discounted $7-8k . They are still way over priced. And the problem at Ford is 6 fold because of the volume of trucks they build. We have all seen the news reports of the F150’s that have been parked in lots for QA inspection. Make sure you are getting a new battery if you are buying one. “8^0

 

If your recharging an AGM battery, you’ll need a specific charger for AGM batteries… Ford has been using AGM batteries recently.

 

Noco for chargers

I have a bunch of them and a jumper as well

 

No further trouble codes or issues in a weekend of driving leading me to believe I had a temporary state of charge issue due to insufficient driving. Gonna go in Friday anyway. There is also something that has been squeaking intermittently going in and out of E mode that I want them to listen for and document.

 

Yeah a ton of people have the squeak and have had parts thrown at it under warranty but I have never heard of it putting a truck down. Even heard instances of new trucks on the lot doing it. As best I can tell there is a valve in the system where the mechanism that actuates it dries out or loses lubricity over time and starts to make noise when it does its thing without actually harming the function of the truck. But when people bring it in they get warranty replacement. For awhile it required replacement of an entire piece of the exhaust system that ties into the system that switches in and out of E mode and uses the valve to redirect coolant or exhaust gas (I forget which) to cool electronics or something. Ford initially only offered it as one piece But my understanding is they got tired of that warranty bill real fast and started offering just the valve. It has probabably been coming and going for me for over a year with no other resulting problems. I really should have taken it in a long time ago but since I have this appointment now anyway I'm going to take the opportunity to go on record with it.

 

Better to have a squeak, or creak, over a leak. 8^0 Unless it is mechanical.

When I got my 2018 the first thing I did was install the drivers grip handle which Toyota had deleted from previous versions, I just could not get the torque right. Depending on the temperature and type of road bump, railway track, .... I would get a slight creak. I tried some foam too, but I think what happened in the end was the natural tendency for the plastic to bend "form" which did the trick.
No side steps for me, the day I can no longer get in my truck with the handle, will be the hint to sell it.

 

My fiancee is 5'0". I am pretty sure she would be upset if I didn't have running boards.

 

We were thinking running boards would be handy when loading the kids in and out of their car seats. Whether I install some or not, I'll probably just push off the driver's door to get myself in, though, as I don't have a grab handle.

 

I have to say the power running boards and power bed step are really well done, really grown to like that option. especially nice for wife and kids

 

I've heard of folks up here having issues with those in the winter.

 

not sure, non issue for me, I have a fully insulated and heated garage, HEHE

 

Same, non-subscription remote start over here and I can't even use it.....

 

Love the raptor but $85k for a leaf spring F150 platinum is ludicrous. And the dealer is advertising a great price at msrp . Nothing like an instant 20k in negative equity

 

Insanity

 

But the body panels will never rust. 8^0

This video I found honest and very interesting so sharing.

Look at this 9 year old Aluminum Body F150 with 250000 kilometers 159000 miles, and it has NO undercoating? Has never been treated for rust.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3_1mdf1dWE

 

Good to know. I am in the part of the snow belt that gets hit hard every now and then but doesn't deal with serious snow regularly enough for people to be able to stay sane when we have something approaching. In response to some forecasts that end up resulting in a dusting we'll sometimes get more salt than snow on the road.

Enough salt will be everywhere to turn vehicle lower body panels white, we'll have to duck work because the kids are sent to Zoom class, and there will be a light layer on grass that melts by mid day.

 

I love the aluminum body for the weight/payload savings but I wonder how much cost is adds vs steel?