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Turbo Charging A Tundra!

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Builds (2014-2021)' started by Black@Blue19, Nov 15, 2022.

  1. Feb 5, 2025 at 1:34 PM
    #1651
    bflooks

    bflooks Wishing I was still a new member

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    Turbokits.com Stage (TBD - formerly Stages 1.0, 1.5 & 2.0) Precision 7675 turbo TurboKits.com 31"x11.75"x3" Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) TurboKits.com heat coating DW650cc Injectors DW340lp fuel pump Innovate SCG-1 Boost Controller AEM water/methanol injection (500cc) Mishimoto dual-pass trans cooler with Turbokits.com mounting bracket Dirty Deeds Bamf 21" Stainless Nitro 5.29s Powertrax Grip Pro Bilstein 5100 middle setting CB shims (2 driver, 1 passenger) Bilstein 5160 rears Firestone Ride-Rite bags Daystar cradles Roadmaster Active Suspension (RAS) HD TRD rear sway bar 18" TRD wheels BORA 1" wheel spacers 275/70r18 Falken Wildpeak AT3W X2 Power Group 24 battery Power fold tow mirror (OEM) Valhalla's Shields (front/rear)
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  2. Feb 5, 2025 at 1:36 PM
    #1652
    Jego

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    Lift Kit HoodScoop Anytime Front & Backup Camera Interior & Exterior led Lights Wheel Spacers
    I like it
     
  3. Feb 5, 2025 at 1:38 PM
    #1653
    Jego

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    Lift Kit HoodScoop Anytime Front & Backup Camera Interior & Exterior led Lights Wheel Spacers
    I had to buy new clips, only 2 or 3 survived. Nice progress!
     
  4. Feb 5, 2025 at 1:46 PM
    #1654
    centex

    centex New Member

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    Ok I’m glad it’s not me because I was beginning to question my wrenching abilities trying to pull those things out. Tomorrow will be mounting the boost solenoid, finishing the wiring harness, run the wires for the solenoids, heat tape, and then maybe plugs and wrap the down pipe and crossover.
     
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  5. Feb 5, 2025 at 1:52 PM
    #1655
    Burdturger

    Burdturger New Member

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    Stage 2 kit looks great but unsure that beaut of a intercooler will fit behind some aftermarket bumpers. :( Can we strap it on the roof rack? :p
     
  6. Feb 5, 2025 at 2:05 PM
    #1656
    centex

    centex New Member

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    I’ve got an aftermarket bumper so we’ll find out in a day or two how it fits.
     
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  7. Feb 5, 2025 at 2:57 PM
    #1657
    TurboKits

    TurboKits New Member

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    I am heading out of town for the weekend. If I am slow to respond to anyone. That is why. We have other guys here, but I handle the Tundra stuff! Thanks for your patience.
     
  8. Feb 5, 2025 at 3:01 PM
    #1658
    bflooks

    bflooks Wishing I was still a new member

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    Turbokits.com Stage (TBD - formerly Stages 1.0, 1.5 & 2.0) Precision 7675 turbo TurboKits.com 31"x11.75"x3" Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) TurboKits.com heat coating DW650cc Injectors DW340lp fuel pump Innovate SCG-1 Boost Controller AEM water/methanol injection (500cc) Mishimoto dual-pass trans cooler with Turbokits.com mounting bracket Dirty Deeds Bamf 21" Stainless Nitro 5.29s Powertrax Grip Pro Bilstein 5100 middle setting CB shims (2 driver, 1 passenger) Bilstein 5160 rears Firestone Ride-Rite bags Daystar cradles Roadmaster Active Suspension (RAS) HD TRD rear sway bar 18" TRD wheels BORA 1" wheel spacers 275/70r18 Falken Wildpeak AT3W X2 Power Group 24 battery Power fold tow mirror (OEM) Valhalla's Shields (front/rear)
    Enjoy, have fun!
     
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  9. Feb 5, 2025 at 3:04 PM
    #1659
    Jego

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    Good point I have a semi bumper with a hidden winch. :facepalm: Let's see when I get there.
     
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  10. Feb 5, 2025 at 3:04 PM
    #1660
    centex

    centex New Member

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    Enjoy!
     
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  11. Feb 5, 2025 at 3:08 PM
    #1661
    bflooks

    bflooks Wishing I was still a new member

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    Turbokits.com Stage (TBD - formerly Stages 1.0, 1.5 & 2.0) Precision 7675 turbo TurboKits.com 31"x11.75"x3" Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) TurboKits.com heat coating DW650cc Injectors DW340lp fuel pump Innovate SCG-1 Boost Controller AEM water/methanol injection (500cc) Mishimoto dual-pass trans cooler with Turbokits.com mounting bracket Dirty Deeds Bamf 21" Stainless Nitro 5.29s Powertrax Grip Pro Bilstein 5100 middle setting CB shims (2 driver, 1 passenger) Bilstein 5160 rears Firestone Ride-Rite bags Daystar cradles Roadmaster Active Suspension (RAS) HD TRD rear sway bar 18" TRD wheels BORA 1" wheel spacers 275/70r18 Falken Wildpeak AT3W X2 Power Group 24 battery Power fold tow mirror (OEM) Valhalla's Shields (front/rear)
    If the aftermarket bumper has the same overall depth and bumper cover footprint, then shouldn't be a problem. If the top "shelf" of the bumper extends further inwards, then you may have an issue. Regardless, with aftermarket anything, you'll need to figure out if they are compatible or not. Before trimming or shaving, I'd also be looking at air flow and other variables (e.g. if you were to mount a trans cooler below the FMIC utilizing the factory bumper vent).
     
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  12. Feb 6, 2025 at 10:22 AM
    #1662
    centex

    centex New Member

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    So the fuse box and harness have been the most challenging part yet. I guess the harness on my truck is shorter than the instructions but it was a tight fit trying to get it pulled and reconnected and then the fuse box rotated and secured. Had loosen the harness going along the top of the fender and also remove the harness from where it connected to the frame to get just enough slack to get it in. Thankfully there is no tensions on any of the pins but it’s a tight squeeze. Now I’m working on heat taping everything and then will move on to plugs. Hopefully those don’t fight to hard. I’ll get photos loaded later today.
     
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  13. Feb 6, 2025 at 12:53 PM
    #1663
    bflooks

    bflooks Wishing I was still a new member

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    Not sure how you handled it so far, but if you open the clamp portion of the harness mount, you can try to straighten the harness to give you a little bit of extra distance. It also affords you the opportunity to get 1 (2 at most) wrap of heat tape under the clamp before you reinstall it.
     
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  14. Feb 6, 2025 at 1:36 PM
    #1664
    centex

    centex New Member

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    I forced things to bend to my will but I like the idea.

    Today was a long day. Fuse box and harness move took more than I thought as did the heat taping. Spark plugs are done. I don't know how Toyota does plugs but the three toyota's I've done plugs on, all 3 have scared me because they are so hard to break free and unthread. My rear passenger plug I was convinced was stuck because it got stuck and I had to thread it back in and out several times to get it free. But they are done and the truck runs so successful day. Been about 4hrs today. Tomorrow I was going to attempt the intercooler stuff but I think that's going to be a Sunday thing and tomorrow will be wrapping the exhaust piping and trans cooler lines.

    IMG_3717.HEIC.jpg
    IMG_3718.HEIC.jpg

    Looking at the instructions, you need to remove this rubber plug and this is where you'll drill the 2.5" hole.
    IMG_3714.HEIC.jpg
    IMG_3723.HEIC.jpg
    IMG_3719.HEIC.jpg
    IMG_3715.HEIC.jpg


    IMG_3716.HEIC.jpg
    IMG_3720.HEIC.jpg
    IMG_3721.HEIC.jpg
    IMG_3722.HEIC.jpg
    IMG_3724.HEIC.jpg
    IMG_3725.HEIC.jpg

    Stock plugs with 76k miles on them. They all look about the same.
    IMG_3726.HEIC.jpg
    IMG_3727.HEIC.jpg
    IMG_3728.HEIC.jpg

    One thing to note for those doing this like me, the bolt hole you rotate the fuse box to is one the stock airbox uses. I just ziptied it to the airbox for now.
    IMG_3729.HEIC.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2025
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  15. Feb 6, 2025 at 1:56 PM
    #1665
    bflooks

    bflooks Wishing I was still a new member

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    I know it is a work in progress, but you def want to find a grommet for that inner fender. Also, talk to Jesse. You either need to use heavy DEI/Amazon equivalent on those hard coolant lines on the block (what aren't wrapped) or completely bypass and run rubber line over to the other side of the block and away from the turbo piping. I'm actually debating if I want them run at all or if I'm good with bypassing the transmission warming puck (but leaving the trans thermostat). Bypassing would involve looping both ends of the system to themselves.

    Looking at your firewall harness, you can already see what I mean about undoing the clamp so you can get all of the slack you can without fighting it. It was a pain, but worth doing.

    Good work on the heat tape, too. Too cool of temps made that the absolutely worst part of the project for me. Jealous of how quickly it's going for you.
     
  16. Feb 6, 2025 at 2:09 PM
    #1666
    centex

    centex New Member

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    I'll get a grommet for that hole. Tried using some of the make a grommet stuff that came with the water meth but it's not a perfectly flat surface. May just get a piece of hose and clamp it over it and call it done.

    Now that I think of it, I did see a box of DEI heat shield stuff. I wonder if that's for those hoses. What do those hard pipes even do? If it's just the warming puck and not the lines for the actual trans cooler, I'll bypass them. We don't get cold enough here in Texas to worry about it. I could just un-bypass my trans thermostat if I wanted it to get warmer quicker.

    It's a comfy 85* and sunny outside. Perfect day for this stuff.
     
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  17. Feb 6, 2025 at 2:22 PM
    #1667
    bflooks

    bflooks Wishing I was still a new member

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    The DEI stuff is great for on top of the header wrap, especially at the collector and on the up pipe. But, yes, also for those hard lines. They are are just to the warming puck. That's it. They are the ones that the instructions say to bend slightly. The trans cooler hard lines are much lower on the block.

    Here's what I ended up doing on the harness to give you a better idea. Less slack that I expected, but moving it over that 1/2-3/4" was a big help at the fuse block, and it was nice knowing the entire harness was wrapped. Your final wrap is also sealed, so you are probably fine. If you don't have tension on the pins then you probably don't need to revisit but figured I'd share since that clamp can come off and can move.

    EDIT: What may not be showing is that you probably have another 1/4-1/2" of slack in that harness if you undo the clamp. Expand it to get over the first ridge and you'll know what I mean.

    PXL_20240325_145427146.jpg
    PXL_20240325_151553338.jpg
    PXL_20240325_155205999.jpg
    PXL_20240325_155213071.jpg
    PXL_20240325_155849140.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2025
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  18. Feb 6, 2025 at 2:48 PM
    #1668
    bflooks

    bflooks Wishing I was still a new member

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  19. Feb 6, 2025 at 3:06 PM
    #1669
    Jego

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    Now I remember! Same happened to me. Had hard time pushing the fuse box and installing the bolt that use the spacer at the same time. But it is doable.

    20240905_221020.jpg
     
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  20. Feb 6, 2025 at 3:08 PM
    #1670
    Jego

    Jego New Member

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    wow lot of progress!! nice :muscleflexing:
     
  21. Feb 6, 2025 at 3:12 PM
    #1671
    Jego

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    I made a smaller hole for the harness, didn't have the right grommet at the moment but made a cut to one that I had temporarily.

    20240902_213821.jpg20240903_071329.jpg20240902_095025.jpg
     
  22. Feb 6, 2025 at 3:22 PM
    #1672
    centex

    centex New Member

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    Lots of progress for sure. This is the stuff that takes a lot of time and is tedious so I’m glad to spread it out over days instead of trying to do it all at once.

    Im guessing this stuff is for those pipes to wrap.

    IMG_3730.jpg
     
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  23. Feb 6, 2025 at 3:23 PM
    #1673
    Jego

    Jego New Member

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    @centex When I removed the mud guard for the harness relocation I also ran the water/meth wires through the factory antenna grommet and the hose behind the mud guard. Maybe you want to do that now that you have the mud guard out.

    Here is it:
    20240902_210113 - Copy.jpg
     
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  24. Feb 6, 2025 at 3:24 PM
    #1674
    centex

    centex New Member

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    You could get away with a 2” or 1.75” hole easily.
     
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  25. Feb 6, 2025 at 3:25 PM
    #1675
    centex

    centex New Member

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    I like that idea. How’d you run it under the truck or did you mount your tank and lines and stuff on the passenger side?
     
  26. Feb 6, 2025 at 3:34 PM
    #1676
    bflooks

    bflooks Wishing I was still a new member

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    Hmmm... Great question. I didn't have that product when I did mine. I had the AC Performance (below in the "Products Discussed" section) and the DEI equivalent.
     
  27. Feb 6, 2025 at 3:35 PM
    #1677
    bflooks

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    If it is actually a velcro option, the the possibilities are endless for it. I could only find the closed loop version when I was looking.
     
  28. Feb 6, 2025 at 3:38 PM
    #1678
    centex

    centex New Member

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    You’ve got me seriously considering removing those lines and cleaning it up a bit. Found a thread about bypassing it down at the puck itself but I’d rather do it at the engine and then remove those lines entirely.
     
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  29. Feb 6, 2025 at 3:42 PM
    #1679
    Jego

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    Good question, yes it is mounted in the passenger side accidentally. The history behind it was the molle panel. I got a huge discount on it as open item. The description said it was for the driver side but it wasn't. So I didn't want to pay the full price for it and decided to keep it. But my original intention was to install it in the driver side.
     
  30. Feb 6, 2025 at 3:47 PM
    #1680
    Jego

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    2018 Tundra 1794
    Lift Kit HoodScoop Anytime Front & Backup Camera Interior & Exterior led Lights Wheel Spacers
    I reviewed the video I have about it to see the step drill bit size I used. It was 1.25" I decided to used that one after measuring the wider connector that the factory harness has. But I see that a bigger hole add more room to move it and ease the fuse box install.

    vlcsnap-2025-02-06-19h56m37s809.png
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2025
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