Turbo Charging A Tundra!

For anyone who is following this thread but not the SC thread, @Cruisers & Co. were kind enough to work out a Group Buy for us on the WAT Valve Body Upgrades and accessories.

Details are here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/page-734#post-3841938

Limited time only.

 

I like it

 

I had to buy new clips, only 2 or 3 survived. Nice progress!

 

Ok I’m glad it’s not me because I was beginning to question my wrenching abilities trying to pull those things out. Tomorrow will be mounting the boost solenoid, finishing the wiring harness, run the wires for the solenoids, heat tape, and then maybe plugs and wrap the down pipe and crossover.

 

Stage 2 kit looks great but unsure that beaut of a intercooler will fit behind some aftermarket bumpers. Can we strap it on the roof rack?

 

I’ve got an aftermarket bumper so we’ll find out in a day or two how it fits.

 

I am heading out of town for the weekend. If I am slow to respond to anyone. That is why. We have other guys here, but I handle the Tundra stuff! Thanks for your patience.

 

Enjoy, have fun!

 

Good point I have a semi bumper with a hidden winch. Let's see when I get there.

 

Enjoy!

 

If the aftermarket bumper has the same overall depth and bumper cover footprint, then shouldn't be a problem. If the top "shelf" of the bumper extends further inwards, then you may have an issue. Regardless, with aftermarket anything, you'll need to figure out if they are compatible or not. Before trimming or shaving, I'd also be looking at air flow and other variables (e.g. if you were to mount a trans cooler below the FMIC utilizing the factory bumper vent).

 

So the fuse box and harness have been the most challenging part yet. I guess the harness on my truck is shorter than the instructions but it was a tight fit trying to get it pulled and reconnected and then the fuse box rotated and secured. Had loosen the harness going along the top of the fender and also remove the harness from where it connected to the frame to get just enough slack to get it in. Thankfully there is no tensions on any of the pins but it’s a tight squeeze. Now I’m working on heat taping everything and then will move on to plugs. Hopefully those don’t fight to hard. I’ll get photos loaded later today.

 

Not sure how you handled it so far, but if you open the clamp portion of the harness mount, you can try to straighten the harness to give you a little bit of extra distance. It also affords you the opportunity to get 1 (2 at most) wrap of heat tape under the clamp before you reinstall it.

 

I forced things to bend to my will but I like the idea.

Today was a long day. Fuse box and harness move took more than I thought as did the heat taping. Spark plugs are done. I don't know how Toyota does plugs but the three toyota's I've done plugs on, all 3 have scared me because they are so hard to break free and unthread. My rear passenger plug I was convinced was stuck because it got stuck and I had to thread it back in and out several times to get it free. But they are done and the truck runs so successful day. Been about 4hrs today. Tomorrow I was going to attempt the intercooler stuff but I think that's going to be a Sunday thing and tomorrow will be wrapping the exhaust piping and trans cooler lines.




Looking at the instructions, you need to remove this rubber plug and this is where you'll drill the 2.5" hole.













Stock plugs with 76k miles on them. They all look about the same.




One thing to note for those doing this like me, the bolt hole you rotate the fuse box to is one the stock airbox uses. I just ziptied it to the airbox for now.

 

I know it is a work in progress, but you def want to find a grommet for that inner fender. Also, talk to Jesse. You either need to use heavy DEI/Amazon equivalent on those hard coolant lines on the block (what aren't wrapped) or completely bypass and run rubber line over to the other side of the block and away from the turbo piping. I'm actually debating if I want them run at all or if I'm good with bypassing the transmission warming puck (but leaving the trans thermostat). Bypassing would involve looping both ends of the system to themselves.

Looking at your firewall harness, you can already see what I mean about undoing the clamp so you can get all of the slack you can without fighting it. It was a pain, but worth doing.

Good work on the heat tape, too. Too cool of temps made that the absolutely worst part of the project for me. Jealous of how quickly it's going for you.

 

I'll get a grommet for that hole. Tried using some of the make a grommet stuff that came with the water meth but it's not a perfectly flat surface. May just get a piece of hose and clamp it over it and call it done.

Now that I think of it, I did see a box of DEI heat shield stuff. I wonder if that's for those hoses. What do those hard pipes even do? If it's just the warming puck and not the lines for the actual trans cooler, I'll bypass them. We don't get cold enough here in Texas to worry about it. I could just un-bypass my trans thermostat if I wanted it to get warmer quicker.

It's a comfy 85* and sunny outside. Perfect day for this stuff.

 

The DEI stuff is great for on top of the header wrap, especially at the collector and on the up pipe. But, yes, also for those hard lines. They are are just to the warming puck. That's it. They are the ones that the instructions say to bend slightly. The trans cooler hard lines are much lower on the block.

Here's what I ended up doing on the harness to give you a better idea. Less slack that I expected, but moving it over that 1/2-3/4" was a big help at the fuse block, and it was nice knowing the entire harness was wrapped. Your final wrap is also sealed, so you are probably fine. If you don't have tension on the pins then you probably don't need to revisit but figured I'd share since that clamp can come off and can move.

EDIT: What may not be showing is that you probably have another 1/4-1/2" of slack in that harness if you undo the clamp. Expand it to get over the first ridge and you'll know what I mean.

 

If you have a true 2.5" opening, I used one of these. Just a small X cut in the center and the connector fits through sideways and it keeps a good seal on the harness after. It's also very pliable and conforms to the shape just fine (with a little patience).

$10 Biaungdo 6 Pcs Rubber Grommet, 2-1/8" Inside Diameter 2-1/2" Drill Hole Double-Sided Black Synthetic Rubber Grommet for Wire Protection, Firewall Plug Round Grommet (53mm x 60mm)

Amazon.com: Biaungdo 6 Pcs Rubber Grommet, 2-1/8" Inside Diameter 2-1/2" Drill Hole Double-Sided Black Synthetic Rubber Grommet for Wire Protection, Firewall Plug Round Grommet (53mm x 60mm) : Industrial & Scientific

 

Now I remember! Same happened to me. Had hard time pushing the fuse box and installing the bolt that use the spacer at the same time. But it is doable.

 

wow lot of progress!! nice

 

I made a smaller hole for the harness, didn't have the right grommet at the moment but made a cut to one that I had temporarily.

 

Lots of progress for sure. This is the stuff that takes a lot of time and is tedious so I’m glad to spread it out over days instead of trying to do it all at once.

Im guessing this stuff is for those pipes to wrap.

 

@centex When I removed the mud guard for the harness relocation I also ran the water/meth wires through the factory antenna grommet and the hose behind the mud guard. Maybe you want to do that now that you have the mud guard out.

Here is it:

 

You could get away with a 2” or 1.75” hole easily.

 

I like that idea. How’d you run it under the truck or did you mount your tank and lines and stuff on the passenger side?

 

Hmmm... Great question. I didn't have that product when I did mine. I had the AC Performance (below in the "Products Discussed" section) and the DEI equivalent.

 

If it is actually a velcro option, the the possibilities are endless for it. I could only find the closed loop version when I was looking.

 

You’ve got me seriously considering removing those lines and cleaning it up a bit. Found a thread about bypassing it down at the puck itself but I’d rather do it at the engine and then remove those lines entirely.

 

Good question, yes it is mounted in the passenger side accidentally. The history behind it was the molle panel. I got a huge discount on it as open item. The description said it was for the driver side but it wasn't. So I didn't want to pay the full price for it and decided to keep it. But my original intention was to install it in the driver side.

 

I reviewed the video I have about it to see the step drill bit size I used. It was 1.25" I decided to used that one after measuring the wider connector that the factory harness has. But I see that a bigger hole add more room to move it and ease the fuse box install.